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New 520 owner in So Cal.


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#21 damen_red

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 09:48 PM

When I rebuilt the E1 for our 320, I had the cam ground and lifters re-faced. I had the grinder keep the basic profile and duration but had .05 more lift put in the lobe profile. Had another cam for Andy in eastern Kansas done at same time. He had half a dozen 320 pickups and says he can definitely tell the change in performance. Regrind might be an option if you're wary of the cam condition. Seems like prices were $50 per cam and $2 per lifter. My rocker unit was in good condition.

 

RegroundCamampLiftersClose-up_zps13015cc

 

I was hoping not to get too far into the engine, but seeing as how I didn't get my head back and they have those handy-dandy lifter access ports, I owe it to myself to at least inspect the lifters. I did get the MBG Rocker assembly, the rockers seem tight on there, which could be a good thing, but I'd like to disassemble it and inspect it, along with comparing it to the Datsun assembly.



#22 Charlie69

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 05:53 AM

Might be a good time ti find a J15 engine out of a fork lift.



#23 damen_red

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 08:07 AM

Might be a good time ti find a J15 engine out of a fork lift.

 

This has always interested me, because the same goes for the roadster, but I have never been able to find a forklift for "cheap", of course my search has been mostly limited to Craigslist and come up with things like this (Datsun forklift, $2700). Is there a trick to finding a clapped out forklift that I can pull an engine from?



#24 Charlie69

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 09:18 AM

Find an industrial scrap yard or a fork lift repair company.



#25 bilzbobaggins

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 09:20 AM

Or visit Mexico?

Wanted:  1978 B210 Hatchback or 78-80 510 2 door Hatch

 

 


#26 Lockleaf

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 11:14 AM

Find an industrial scrap yard or a fork lift repair company.


This. Call them and ask if they are willing to sell core engines.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#27 difrangia

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 11:32 AM

Might check with these guys; Looks like they have some J15 stuff. Maybe have some engine cores available or give advice on finding something?? 

 

http://www.motorpowerinc.com/


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#28 wayno

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 01:13 PM

This is north of you a ways, but might be worth the trip.

I seriously doubt it is a 1961 engine, but I suppose I could be wrong.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...a5XPrH2&vxp=mtr


 

 


#29 Charlie69

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 04:22 PM

If you have the cash and a good water pump I would make an offer on that engine.  First ask about warranty, was the engine bored with new pistons and rings, turned crank with new rod & main bearings,  new valve guides and seals, valve grind, and was the cam bearings and cam replaced?



#30 damen_red

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Posted 28 August 2016 - 09:11 PM

Ok, so worked on the brakes today, didn't get as far as I had hoped because I ran into some inevitable parts-fitment problems.  The brake master was pretty corroded and took some convincing to get off.

 

2DSxvG6l.jpg

 

Fx1jdekl.jpg

 

The challenge when putting the new one on had to do with the fitting on the adjustable brake plunger being too wide for the pedal retainer, meaning I couldn't hook the return spring on the end, which also acts a s the retaining clip, so I stuck it in the vise, and bed the tabs in, just a bit, like so:

 

4f0Roukl.jpg

 

And that seemed to do it, but this is where everything went down hill. Just bending it in the vise was the wrong thing to do because I ended up distorting the threads, so it became impossible to adjust the arm once it was in place, so I struggled with it for a bit until I got it adjusted just enough to see that in order to shorten the rod enough, the threads were now hitting the pedal and binding up the whole assembly.  Of all the little things I have to "fit" to any car, brakes are the one thing that I just want to "work", but oh well, I had to take it through to the end just to see what it would take.  My next idea was to take the arm off of the old M/C and put it on the new one, but I quickly found out that the retaining washer was too big to fit in the old one, so I mulled it over for a bit and started shaving down the retaining washer to fit. That took a while and some layers of skin, but I finally got it in and the retaining clip in place.

 

I have all the hydraulics, but ran short on time and I figured that I would like to try and flush some fluid through the lines before putting the new hydraulics in, to try and get out as much corrosion, or dust, or whatever is in there out before fitting the new wheel cylinders. Well, it's bone dry in there and I couldn't push any fluid through at all, even while pulling a vacuum at one of the wheels, so things are probably pretty messed up and it looks like a complete disassembly of all the lines and injecting fluid manually into them before reassembling is what might have to happen.  I am beginning to remember why my roadster project stalled out, the fear of each and every rusted nut potentially breaking and putting me back days or weeks is starting to get to me, I am trying to douse whatever I plan on working on with prodigious amounts of liquid wrench, but it never seems to be enough! Forgot to take some "after" shots.



#31 DanielC

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Posted 28 August 2016 - 10:13 PM

I have found a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF makes the best penetrating oil you can get.

All the body fasteners on a 520 are American SAE (fine) threads.



#32 FunkyFresh520

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Posted 29 August 2016 - 01:55 AM

Where in socal u located? Im in long beach area.. My 520 sat for 20+ years also and now shes up n running

#33 Craig Hughes

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Posted 29 August 2016 - 02:00 PM

Hey I'm up in SaN Luis Obispo and I pulled my running J13 and put a 2nd motor i purchased and completely rebuild with all new machine work, so mine runs great and the original motor i was going to rebuild then put back in as all original, well haven't got that far so its just sitting. I'm leaning toward selling my 520 so the engine could be aviable if that is the way you end up needing to go.



#34 damen_red

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 10:51 AM

Hey I'm up in SaN Luis Obispo and I pulled my running J13 and put a 2nd motor i purchased and completely rebuild with all new machine work, so mine runs great and the original motor i was going to rebuild then put back in as all original, well haven't got that far so its just sitting. I'm leaning toward selling my 520 so the engine could be aviable if that is the way you end up needing to go.

 

Hi Craig, I may be interested in you old engine, I just heard back from the machine shop and on top of everything they were going to have to do, it needed hardened valve seats as well, which made the head rebuild cost about $400, so I decided to just have them stop there and I'm going to pick up the head in parts and try to source another one or maybe get a competitive quote for a complete rebuild with hardened seats. I'll PM you, thanks!

 

DR



#35 Craig Hughes

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 01:55 PM

Hey DR, I haven't kept close to this awesome  web sight after I got my truck all together as a prodject at my local high school auto shop. The instructor is a close friend and thought because of its simplicity  he could show things easily to his students as we first took it apart then they watched as the parts came in from the machine shop. All that to say the original motor that did run just not strong, has been waiting its turn for rebuild but I just haven't had the time or extra cash to do it just to make the truck totally numbers matching though that would be nice and my thought for someone interested in the truck, inn the future, but who knows if that would happen, so the motor is probably aviable if someone where interested. Keep in touch, hope you solve your prodject needs.



#36 wayno

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 03:10 PM

Your going to have to put hardened seats in any engine head of that era, even a good used head the valves will slowly sink into the head, especially if you have your foot into it.

I suppose you could find a machine shop that will just do a valve job.


 

 


#37 Charlie69

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 04:37 PM

Read this.

 

http://community.rat...tsun/?p=1414637



#38 damen_red

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 06:21 PM

Read this.
 
http://community.rat...tsun/?p=1414637


Is that the right link? You pasted in a post about photobucket.

DR

#39 damen_red

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 06:25 PM

Your going to have to put hardened seats in any engine head of that era, even a good used head the valves will slowly sink into the head, especially if you have your foot into it.
I suppose you could find a machine shop that will just do a valve job.


I guess I'm hesitant because I don't know how the bottom end looks yet, I'm ok spending a couple hundred for a freshening, but when it approaches the cost of a running pull, I have to weigh my options. Besides, there was nothing wrong with the head, other than being worn, which shouldn't prevent me from putting it back together and running it enough to suss out any other problems, still don't know if it'll hold water, that's a biggie.

#40 wayno

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 06:55 PM

I guess I'm hesitant because I don't know how the bottom end looks yet, I'm ok spending a couple hundred for a freshening, but when it approaches the cost of a running pull, I have to weigh my options. Besides, there was nothing wrong with the head, other than being worn, which shouldn't prevent me from putting it back together and running it enough to suss out any other problems, still don't know if it'll hold water, that's a biggie.

There is always the chance that if you rebuild the head it will burn oil like crazy pulling it thru the rings because of fresh head.

You also could just put it back together with the parts you have bought and hope it runs good.