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Datsun 510 KA24DE electrical problems


Marsh510

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Hey guys, got my KA swap running a couple weeks ago, but there is a major drain in the electrical system. I paid a guy that was recommended by a very good friend of mine. He said the electrical dude did really good work, and was a honest person. That wasn't the case when the guy didn't finish my new harness for the lights, charging system, and everything under the dash. He did a shitty fucking job, and doesnt return my calls or texts. Now im stuck with my 510 feeling a huge power loss and a messed up charging system. I have GREAT ground for the motor and battery, also the alternator, and everything else i could find. Tested the Alternator at an Oreilly's, Passed.  I feel like the problem is within the harness itself, he might've wired something wrong. I currently have 1 10 inch and 1 12 inch fan with 1 relay, and all the lights connected to a ghetto switch with a 30 Amp glass fuse on top. I also have my RPM Tach hooked up, which turns off when using the turn signals either side. Any suggestions? I do have my old 69 underdash harness and ill being getting my engine bay harness from another guy. My engine harness was spliced up from Geno of Datslocos.     

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typical of Datsun guys!!!!!never hear back.

 

get test light. look up eleltrical drain test on Youtube and pull fuses till test light goes out then you know the circuit.

 

 

really you don't do anything with the stock harness, light under dash ect....WTF!!!!!!!!!!.  you just use relays to power up the new engine harness. most use the blk white wire to get the relays going and the start wire.

 

use jumpers on the old volt reg connector and then your good for the later IR alternator=done!!!!!!!! maybe swap the T connector and Datzenmike has those photos.

 

 

hopefull your car isn't worth nothing now.

 

seen this a lot on Ratsun, of harness swaps and then its bad

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Alternator is from a 96 240sx. So i put the Multimeters leads, one to the negative battery cable, the other to the battery itself. The positive cable plugged onto the battery. After plugging every glass fuse and modern fuse, it reads 11.75 amps. Doesn't drop whatsoever. The harness he made for me pretty much doesnt have a fuse box. I will try to post pictures of the mess. 

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You can redo the wiring relatively "easily" if necessary.

 

Install factory 510 wiring harness.

 

Buy kade wiring harness.

 

Buy Can/Am box from ratsun member Icehouse

 

Connect a few wires from ka harness to can/am box.

 

Drive away inn functional fully wired car

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My KA engine harness was spliced by Datslocos Geno. I dont believe i need a can am box. Just need to hook up a couple wires to the ignition key and i should be good. Just worried about my 510 underdash and engine bay harness as they aren't in good condition. Also is there a good method to clean corroded connectors?

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you cheaking for amps or voltage??????

 

now if you had the meter on AMPS(use the amp side of the meter) and breack the circuit open like to did and put the meter in series and get 11 amps that's a MAJOR fucking proplem. like something is totally ON.

 

Now if you had it to Volts and ck it that way and  was reading 11.75 volts that is a normal reading. drain or no drain.  that's why I don't like using a VOLT meter reading.

 

THIS is  why I say use a test light as its the same a a current ck but more idiot proof as you see the light ON. when ON its a drain

 

 

sell car to 510keeper

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Yeah i used a multimeter, was checking for amps. Already took out the dump of a wiring he made for me. Currently fixing my underdash harness as he cut the shit out of it, and waiting on my engine bay harness. I think I'll get the car done by the weekend. I'll let you know of the outcome. I love this car, it is my first, and WILL NEVER be sold under any circumstances. I got a strong bond with this piece of metal. :blush:

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Better to rely on yourself in matters of your car. Face it, not many know much about them, so it might as well be you that does. Same with mechanics. You pay mechanic's rate so he can learn about them? Better you should learn and help others. These cars are easy wrench turning, no magical EFI sensors you can't tell if working or not, no computers. If you can't fix it, at least you will know what's wrong with it.  

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One way to tackle the electrical issues.  Divide up the different systems, starting circuit, charging circuit, engine running circuits (ignition, fuel pumps, electric fan) and the car body.

I would make the car body stock.  That way, we all know it, and can advise you. 

Starting circuits are all the same.  Two battery cables, and a switch to connect the solenoid to positive battery power.

Charging circuit, do the mods necessary to run an internal regulated alternator.   Make sure you keep the ground wires between battery negative, alternator case, and the body of the car.

 

I have not done a fuel injected engine swap into an old Datsun, but the general advise seems to use the Icehouse Can/Am box.

 

Once the engine starts, runs and can charge the battery, it does not matter how the rest of the car gets 12 volts (14 volts when running) to the fuse box.  The fuse box divides up the electrical power.

 

In case you have not figured it out yet, Datsun 510's use switched ground for the headlight circuits.

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Yep, I got that part Daniel, thank you. Like I said, the electrical guy that did my wiring pretty much made a bypass harness, with barely any fuses or relays. I have already soldered the wires on my 510 under dash harness since the guy cut them all out. I just need to figure out the starter and alternator wires.

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Yep, I got that part Daniel, thank you. Like I said, the electrical guy that did my wiring pretty much made a bypass harness, with barely any fuses or relays. I have already soldered the wires on my 510 under dash harness since the guy cut them all out. I just need to figure out the starter and alternator wires.

Hey bro who did your 510 harness? And give me a call or text maybe I can help you figure out your problem. 2092985130
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Just put in my 510 dash harness and engine bay harness. Hooked everything up correctly, im getting 11.22 volts from alternator and battery. Haven't checked other wires yet. 3 Wires are coming from the KA Harness. Fuel pump is connected to a relay on the harness, Ignition is connected to a coil wire, and Battery wire is connected straight to the cable of the battery. Was thinking of swapping the fuse box since it is somewhat corroded. Going to try the method that datzenmike thread bumped, 

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Battery should be between 11.8 (low charge) and 12.6 volts (full charge) with nothing turned on.

 

Engine running, you should see 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts.

 

Below 13.5v it's not charging well, below 12v alternator is doing nothing. Above 14.5v, system is overcharging.

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