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Replace A14 with H20 or H20-2


zeke5551

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OK, as far as I know, the Roadster guys with R16 engines want the H20 engine as it is a stroked R16.

Personally I would stick with the A series engine, as everything having to do with the Datsun Roadster is expensive, you will have to find a Roadster 4 speed(fairly easy but a 4 speed), or source a Roadster 5 speed(expensive), or source a SD series diesel case and use a 71B transmission of some sort, all these are either hard to find or expensive or not what you wanted to start with.

Just bore out your A series engine.

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Has anyone used a H20 or H20-2 forklift motor in a B210 or 310? I'm looking for one to see, measure,,.think about. I've heard it is based on an A15 and is the same size, Any clues or does anyone have a source? thanks, zeke

The H2O is based on the 5 Main bearing R16 roadster motor, very different animal from the A15

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This is why I love these forums. My research (google) lead me to believe the H20 was a derivative of the A series motor and the transmission bolt pattern would be the same. I need a very short engine for a conversion I'm working on. My goal is to put a full drive train and brakes from a Datsun in my 59 Morris Minor Traveler. The A series motors fit and hundreds of them have been put in MMs. I just wanted a little more than 1.4 or 1.5 liters. Also, I'm having a horrible time finding a rebuildible A14 or 15 in central California. Any help will be appreciated. I'll drive within a couple hundred miles of Fresno, Ca (horrible place if you're curious). I'm slowly backing out of the muscle car thing and going smaller. I have a stock 260Z and know how good a Datsun is...makes sense to through out the British junk from my MM and make a drivable car out of it. The forum won't let me post a WTB add yet, so if anyone can help me with an engine core, email me at zeke5551@comcast.net   thanks, Zeke

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It's actually a very common conversion(just not talked about a lot), I believe there was one at Canby, and no one can tell unless they look at the block numbers.

You just bolt all the "R" shit on it and you have a stroker, I don't recall if the head is different as once I converted over to a U20/5spd I didn't care anymore.

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The h20 is usually setup with propane injection in the fork lift. I've actually talked to a couple of fork lift repair shops around here about buying a core from them. I almost bought a roadster 1600 a while back and was doing a bunch of research on the h20 block with the r16 head.

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Zeke,

 

I have a spare A15 that came out of a 210, it was running when it came out of the car. I'm in Las Vegas

 

The A15 is intended as a backup motor for the 1200 coupe I race but I also have a prepped A12 so I would be willing to let go of the A15. I have the 5 speed overdrive tranny, I was hanging on to that as a back up as well but have since been able to get the mid close gear set repaired for my other tranny so I'd likely let it goes as well.I'm in a garage clearing mood so I could probably put together a complete package of stuff; motor, tranny, radiator drive shaft etc. I also have some dual valve springs and a lighter flywheel (14lb vs 22lb).

 

As for performance the stock A15 is 80bhp; a mild cam (regrinds from Delta Cams are $75) a weber DGV carb ($50 used) and cleaning up the cylinder head will easily net another 10hp. If you go with an oval port cylinder head 100bhp is easy to attain for not a lot of bucks. That should make your Traveller scoot along nicely.

 

If you ditch the cast iron exhaust manifold in favor of a header and go with the lighter flywheel the A15 will be down to 185lbs & the 60 series gearbox is only 54lbs. So that's just on 240lbs for both, quite a weight reduction over the standard Morris stuff.

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