Jump to content

Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4: "Big Bird"


MaxChlan

Recommended Posts

As best as I could see they are an inch and a quarter, but that was with a tape measure and that's not accurate at all could be an inch and a half with the quality of measurements I was getting there. I need to use some calipers or a ruler for accuracy which I will look at tonight.

 

Edit-I will also try to find the part # for my other block heater.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I myself don't trust the local parts stores to sell me what I need anymore, if I walk in and have a part number or know the size in this case then things are usually good, but if one buys online they need to know the size for sure.

For me the hardest part of this job is getting the old soft plug out.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Update: Block heater is installed. The PO had one of those expandable plugs in there, so taking it out was actually relatively easy. Just a couple turns and a needle nose pliers, without having to remove the manifold or anything. The heater went in a little tight, but overall it was a fairly easy install. I'll throw some pictures and a part number up later. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment

You guys can really use a good block heater. Out here, Id just kinda like one ‘just to be able to‘. Id like to hear how the install worked out and if it is doing the trick for you back there in America‘s ice box...

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I still haven't really been able to use it, as I've been parking on the street and also do not have an extension cord at school. Per request, here are some pictures; they are not the best because you really can not get a good view of the camera and what it is looking at because of its location. As stated earlier, I had a bad plug in the left rear of the engine, directly under the exhaust manifold: 

 

1pEgZzy.jpg

 

It was pretty bad. So, we took a wrench and some long pliers and yanked it out. Here you can see what is inside the hole, which is a lot of crud. 

 

7WEhNDO.jpg?1

 

Block heater in with the coil facing vertically so it does not hit the sides of the block (note that it isn't seated all the way, this was a shot to see what I was working with): 

 

OXJYpQe.jpg

 

Next is cable management: I first ziptied to the E-brake cable to ensure the cord never hits the dipstick or the manifold. You can see it here (it's the thick black cord) 

 

rfgSjqU.jpg

 

Then I just tried to keep it low in the engine bay: 

 

7jXGg2w.jpg

 

k4abI4O.jpg

 

And out of the little holes under the bumper; I tuck the plug back behind but sometimes it just hangs because #truuuuuuuuhlyfe :sleep:

 

vA81Vhy.jpg

 

There! Easy. This job should have taken me a lot less time than it did, but I have a tendency to be too gentle with stuff, so it took a while to remove the old plug. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

i also put a vinyl wrap on the grey piece in between the cluster and the cluster itself i used a blue carbon fiber vinyl. and i used some nail polish to paint the needles of the gauges blue. and the green turn signal plastic piece i used a old coffee can that was blue cut the out with an exacto knife and now my turn signal blink blue instead of green :) i laso changed all my lights to LEDs so they are a little bit brighter

  • Like 1
Link to comment

i also put a vinyl wrap on the grey piece in between the cluster and the cluster itself i used a blue carbon fiber vinyl. and i used some nail polish to paint the needles of the gauges blue. and the green turn signal plastic piece i used a old coffee can that was blue cut the out with an exacto knife and now my turn signal blink blue instead of green :) i laso changed all my lights to LEDs so they are a little bit brighter

Links? Pictures? I just had my cluster out sunday and i fixed the Trip odo (peg fell out of place and busted it apart pretty much... nothin good ol super glue wont fix :D) I was thinking about coloring it or changing the bulbs but I need to focus on mechanical problems rather than cosmetics right now..

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 2 months later...

So, it finally happened: head gasket blew. Now is the time to strongly consider the long term viability of the Z24. Doing a cost analysis on it, it's gonna cost me a pretty penny to acquire the necessary parts: 50-150$ to have head inspected and resurfaced, and if it needs a valve job (most likely) it could be up to 400$. While I'm in there I would do the water pump and gasket set from Nissan would push it up to 600$ to do it correctly with new head studs and a professional head job. Seems like a lot when I have access to the tools and equipment necessary to KA swap, including access to an engine already. 

 

Let's talk parts list:

Wiring 

Fuel Pump

EFI Distrubuter

Custom engine mounts

Modify the oil pan to clear the front diff

 

What else? I am just brainstorming here.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Head gasket is easy man. The gasket kit is $60, true JDM timing kit is $100, your gonna want a new oil pan gasket for $45 if you get a good one. If you didn't overheat the head is straight and keep OEM water pump unless the bearing is bad or it is leaking. Total cost $200 and a weekend. Way way way way way way way easier than going KA, although KA is cool a head gasket is more of an annoyance than a major fail.

 

Edit my machine shop will inspect a head for warpage for free but idk about yours.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Well my experience with swapping a ka got real expensive. Being naturally a cheap bastard and buying a running 1995 truck ka for $200 I figured I could do this. Well chasing down the intake, wiring ecu, sensors, injectors and on and on for a 240sx manifold. A vehicle that was 27 years old at the time was a nightmare. I completed the swap last winter and am very glad I did it, I have owned the truck nearly 30 years so the 2+k cost in the end was worth it. Look at Cryteck89 post an honest well written swap. I had the engine running on a homemade stand and it took almost 12 days to swap the engine and get it up and running. You will have issues with power steering pump, radiator hose,exhuast, fuel, temp, oil pressure, sensors. The things to buy to save headaches are the premade redeye mounts, can am box and the oilpan will need a local fabricator unless you are really really good at welding super thin metal.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

 

I could not find a spot to park at school the other day, so with the "highest in class ground clearance" I gently hopped the curb and set the 720 down in the grass for a nap. 

 

FMaMkHH.jpg

 

Now I understand you bought the truck to match your house!  LOL
  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Link to the timing kit? I plan on ordering an OEM head gasket, valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket from Nissan. Should I replace the water pump anyway since I'm in there? 

Head gasket is easy man. The gasket kit is $60, true JDM timing kit is $100, your gonna want a new oil pan gasket for $45 if you get a good one. If you didn't overheat the head is straight and keep OEM water pump unless the bearing is bad or it is leaking. Total cost $200 and a weekend. Way way way way way way way easier than going KA, although KA is cool a head gasket is more of an annoyance than a major fail.

Edit my machine shop will inspect a head for warpage for free but idk about yours.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

No keep stock water pump as long as possible unless it makes weird noises or leaks or is broken. The stock ones last longer and I have spares so I always use the stock ones.

 

 

I do not have a link to the Japanese timing kit. I can get you the brand though I have a small local parts store that I always source from and half the time I ask for something he just goes in the back and brings out a 30 year old box. The chain I used in my video is one of the cheap tiwanese ones and I would avoid those.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

If you find the stock Japanese brand water pump then Yes change it at same time. Dont know what Capt720 is thinking.

 

As for kits and parts One needs to find the Japan spec stock type stuff as they are better. Now theyre is a lot of clones and Taiwan/Thailand.Indai Chinese parts out there.  Not that its totally bad but I would get the Jap made stuff

 

 

like my 521 have a lot of Taiwan made Hydralic stuffits all that one gets now from rockauto besides the Slave cyl(Nabco Japan). but I only get about 5 years out of these as a daily driver.

Japan made stuff I got over 20yrs on my 510 as they still HAD old stock stuff back then

  • Like 2
Link to comment

While you are in there change the pump.I have learned the hard way time and again if you don't change it when it is easy it will crap our shortly after. Got to change the waterpump in the ka less than a year after install. And after changing the rear main decided to skip the front seal. Same shit, could have changed it easy, but nope didn't change it when it was staring me in the face. Same with coolant hoses. Easy access on the stand, nope my dumb ass gets to hang upside down and change it in the engine by. Get my drift?

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.