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Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4


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#41 84720FourWheel

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 07:29 PM

The bulb # is 194, as for the socket -- search instrument cluster bulb socket. I know I've got them at my LAPS, but i figure they'd probably have trouble figuring out what you wanted. 


It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#42 DrvnDrvr

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 08:37 PM

I'll get one to you later this week. Nice job.

 

Take care if you try to clean the tranny oil out of your speedo or this could happen:

 

 

11141620181_zpsxs5zfo3m.jpg

 

 

It's ok, I found this a week later.

 

1114162018a1_zpsx11jjkcw.jpg?14791844851


tr8ter said "Ratsun. Where rust converter comes by the gallon..."

 

Anything is only as strong as it's weakest point.

 

 

My Datsun pics

 

 

http://drvndrvr.imgur.com/all/


#43 MaxChlan

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 06:46 PM

My tach has started to act funny. When the vehicle is running it used to sit at around 600, and about 800 when warm, and now it is sitting at 900 or 1000 without any change in engine noise. It also seems to be displaying a laggy reading, and does not move consistently. Moreover, when I turn the vehicle off it doesn't go back to zero, it stays around 900. If I slap the dash it will fall to zero quickly as it should. Any ideas? 



#44 720inOlyWa

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 11:49 AM

I can‘t help it- I am a 720 clock freak! (Nice job scoring yours, BTW.) I like to sit in my truck and just listen to the clock tick. But that‘s me. I have a backup clock, and one in both 720s now, so Im not hoarding or even looking for another. Everybody ought to have a quartz clock in their 720 truck!  All of my gauges have dim indicator needles at night. They just don‘t glow anymore. I need to get some good gauge needle paint and go over them again.



#45 datzenmike

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 12:01 PM

Low gauge reading. You are used to things the way they are and are used to the heat you get from the heater. It's very easy to get used you what you have and think nothing is wrong. Thermostats are only $10 for a really good one and cheaper than a sender that might turn out to be OK. My 710 had heat, but the gauge didn't reach the warm range. It was close but not there. I pulled the thermostat and it was not closing. I threw an old one I had in and the difference was amazing. I thought the plastic would melt on the dash! I was so damn mad that I put up with it for so long. The engine ran better also at the right temperature.


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#46 MaxChlan

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Posted 23 November 2016 - 05:25 AM

Point taken datzenmike, I'll add it to my list of repairs to do when I do my clutch; it went out last night. 



#47 MaxChlan

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 08:34 PM

So, some great things happened this weekend! 

 

Firstly, I purchased the wrong sized snow tires for my rims (I guess they are Toyota Tundra 16" rims), so I took advantage of Black Friday and picked up some 15" rims off of a Nissan Xterra for less than $100; got them mounted at Apple Valley Ford today and caught a glimpse of a Cobra Kit Car up on the lift.

 

Secondly, I had my clutch blow out on I-35 going south back to the shack in Minneapolis in the rain on Tuesday night. I was able to get off with the clutch slipping and pull into a small parking lot where two Toyota J40 Land Cruisers were chillin' (very cool/rare vehicle up here). Gotta tow from my uncle to the farm where it sat until today,

 

Lastly, put about five hours of *actual* work into putting a replacement clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing from Exedy in, as well as a new rear main seal since we were in there today. Because we had a lift, my aforementioned cousin and I simply pulled the transmission out the bottom by removing the forward cross-member and mounts. It was kind of was a pain taking the seats, center console and sound dampening out to get at the bracket which holds the shift lever in, but I got it out with some effort and some discoveries of old California scratch offs from the late 80's tucked under the seats and carpet. I'm thinking the original owner had the console out for some time as he used the bracket to store coins and pens. None the less, bled the new clutch, changed the transmission fluid, and drove it home to Minneapolis. It shifts much better and more consistently, which is a plus.  I threw in the bulb which DrvnDrvr so graciously sent to me for free (shout out to him again for the clock!!) as well this evening. 

 

Overall, a very successful holiday weekend! Now, back to my school work.  :crying: 



#48 DrvnDrvr

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Posted 02 December 2016 - 10:03 PM

Thanks for keeping a 720 on the road.


tr8ter said "Ratsun. Where rust converter comes by the gallon..."

 

Anything is only as strong as it's weakest point.

 

 

My Datsun pics

 

 

http://drvndrvr.imgur.com/all/


#49 MaxChlan

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Posted 03 December 2016 - 08:47 AM

Thanks DrvnDvr, I'm starting to come up with a general list of how I want this truck to turn out. 

Next on my list is figuring out where to find out one of the accessory belt tensioners can be found.

The tensioner squeels occasionally, and generally make it sound like it is not running as good as it could be.

JBYGOaw.jpg

(from Lockleaf's Shinanigan's forum)

Anyone know?

 

Also on my list is polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension; my 720 is a little bit creaky! 

I'd also like to get an aftermarket steering wheel. The current one really doesn't fit my driving style well, and I need something a little thicker. DrvnDvr and I have talked about issues with finding the right adapter for Grant GT wheels, so if anyone has done it, link me or give me part number please! In addition to new seats; haven't had any luck with finding Isuzu Rodeos with good seats for a bolt on swap. 

After that, probably going to go with paint for the bed instead of Line-X or Rhino Line, then put my roll bar on and wire those KC's. 

Also, ignition kill switch; this truck is just an easy target at the U of M for amateurs. At least it's a manual transmission ( I have not met a single person at school who knows how to drive one).

 

 After all that is done, I think eventually once the Z24 dies I'll go KA swap. 



#50 DrvnDrvr

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Posted 03 December 2016 - 06:36 PM

Tensioner pulley, about $25

 

http://www.ebay.com/...85YNvuC&vxp=mtr

 

Steering wheel

http://www.ebay.com/...CpX~uIl&vxp=mtr

 

@ $160 a bit pricey for me.

s-l1600.jpg

 

From the emirates 720 broshure and most likely unobtainable. Looks cool tho.

datsun-pickup-interior_zpsrabsiqzd.jpg

 

I've heard certain replacement bushings can be quite hard to get a stiffer suspension. The down side is they wear out faster.

 

The seats in my 720 came out of a Stanza but the rear mount points needed a 1 1/2" block under the seat frame and are about 2" farther back.


tr8ter said "Ratsun. Where rust converter comes by the gallon..."

 

Anything is only as strong as it's weakest point.

 

 

My Datsun pics

 

 

http://drvndrvr.imgur.com/all/


#51 MaxChlan

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Posted 06 December 2016 - 06:49 PM

UPDATE: The 15" Xterra rims did not fit on the vehicle (just a hair too wide, and let this serve as a warning, unless you get the 16" rims), so I picked up some FREE rims off of a '96 Pathfinder. Got them mounted, and now we're sittin' pretty. I love the look of the smaller rims and tires (General Altimax Arctic 205 70r15) as opposed to the bigger ones, plus the truck accelerates and turns better without all that rubber. Here is a silly dark picture (My house matches my truck, hahaha)

RsGpa27.jpg



#52 MaxChlan

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Posted 09 December 2016 - 09:08 AM

As it's getting colder out, I've realized that my truck has difficulty idling when cold. This morning I checked the choke plate, and it was completely closed. Firing the engine up (one or two pumps, holding it halfway and turn it over, per the Owner's Manual), it'll chill at 1000 RPMs for one or two seconds before going down to 500 or even 400. From what I'm gathering, my choke seems to be working okay, but my fast idle cam isn't engaging.  I checked hoses, and everything is tight with no leaks. Once the vehicle is warm, it runs absolutely fine, idling at around 800 where it should. Does anyone have any other ideas? Could someone show me how to adjust the fast idle? 



#53 MaxChlan

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 01:16 PM

Got a nice dusting of about five or six inches of snow this weekend here in the cities. Didn't even have to shift into 4WD with these snow tires on. Here are some pictures I took after doing a few skids around the parking lot:

0KQ3zlT.jpg

Fh4SRbX.jpg

2YbhGmc.jpg

 

I am going to make a habit out of taking a rag and cleaning the underside and in the wheel wells after I drive. Weekly washes will help too hopefully.A few questions about the 4WD system:

 

When I engage 4H, roll about 3 meters and lock the hubs, and then put it back into 2H, can I switch into 4WD while moving and likewise as needed? I did not try it, but I do not want to be rolling around in 4H much unless I absolutely need to, but it's nice to be able to use it to pull out from a stop.  



#54 84720FourWheel

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 05:59 PM

Auto hubs should remained locked after initial engagement. So you pull it into 4, pull forward till they lock, then shift out of 4 and you should have shift on the fly. You have to back up like 10 feet or something to unlock, then you'll have to stop to engage 4
It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#55 MaxChlan

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 08:33 PM

Cool! Good to know!



#56 MaxChlan

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Posted 16 December 2016 - 05:57 PM

Well, I went to adjust the fast idle screw because it was not engaging, only to realize that it wasn't there. Does anyone know what size of screw it is? Or, would anyone be willing to mail me a "letter" with the screw off of their old stock carb? 



#57 la_leo

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 05:51 AM

Well, I went to adjust the fast idle screw because it was not engaging, only to realize that it wasn't there. Does anyone know what size of screw it is? Or, would anyone be willing to mail me a "letter" with the screw off of their old stock carb?

you might put up a part number on a diagram like I've been doing. I think the website is nissan parts deal

#58 MaxChlan

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 08:50 AM

you might put up a part number on a diagram like I've been doing. I think the website is nissan parts deal

I've looked, and the part is discontinued.  :blush:



#59 la_leo

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 09:17 AM

I've looked, and the part is discontinued.  :blush:

We have a fastenall here in town. They make every single bolt/screw that you can imagine. Check any specialty fastener store.



#60 MaxChlan

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 09:29 AM

We have a fastenall here in town. They make every single bolt/screw that you can imagine. Check any specialty fastener store.

Yeah, if I had the size of the screw, I would hit up a local hardware store and grab one (I'm sure it's metric), but I don't have a clue as to what it is or what it looks like, and NissanPartsDeal only says part numbers and not sizes of screws and things like that.