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Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4


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#21 DrvnDrvr

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Posted 19 August 2016 - 10:14 PM

2 thin coats works best.

 

I MEAN THIN.

 

The rust will turn black on the first coat. If it stays clearish on the first coat, a second coat is not useful.

 

Search Ratsun for GL-4 and GL-5 application, it's been covered.

 

NIce truck, keep it up.


tr8ter said "Ratsun. Where rust converter comes by the gallon..."

 

Anything is only as strong as it's weakest point.

 

 

My Datsun pics

 

 

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#22 MaxChlan

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Posted 07 October 2016 - 06:40 AM

Fellas, a few quick question about tires:

 

The truck currently has Goodyear Wrangler RT/S 255 70r16's up front that have about 9/32 tread left, and pretty bald Dunlop AT21 265 70r16's in the back.  

 

What is the appropriate tires size for my truck? Seeing that I have two different widths/heights, I would like it to be uniform. 

 

Winter is coming, and I want to put some winter tires: I'm thinking about Blizzaks's or General Grabber Arctics, but what is your guys' experiences/preferences?

 

Because my front tires seem to be impossible to find, and the back ones are basically bald and causing some slight rattling at high speeds, I'm thinking about new spring/summer/fall tires, and I would like some pointers on what I should look for, or what you guys have on your 720's; I'm currently looking at Yoko Geolandar G015's, but I honestly do not have a brand preference. 

 

Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated!



#23 84720FourWheel

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 12:10 PM

235/75 r15s are pretty common. Its the biggest diameter you can run without rubbing IIRC

I've been through some deep snow with mine with the junk good year wrangler radials. They're junk on ice though. Any winter tire should outperform any all terrain, i have heard good things about the blizzaks.

Having the same size tire all around is important. Your transfer case will thank you.
It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#24 MaxChlan

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 11:50 AM

Doing a quick look around, turning the wheel lock to lock and putting about 200 miles on it since I've got it, I haven't seen or heard any rubbing with the 255 75r16's up front and the 265's in back. Would there be any advantage to going back to the factory size (which is 235 75r15, you're right) vs running 265 75r16's all the way around? 



#25 84720FourWheel

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 06:57 PM

Not really. just get a matching set of tires before the snow flies, or before you lock into 4wd.


It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#26 MaxChlan

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Posted 27 October 2016 - 10:13 PM

Question about fixing a small gauge issue:

 

My temperature gauge is functioning, however the gauge only moves just a smidgen past the cold line, and has never gone further than that during normal operation. Here are two images: The first one is what the gauge reads after a 25 minute drive on the freeway from Savage to Minneapolis (blowing hot heat the whole time). The second one is where it rests when the key is turned to the "off" position. Has anyone had a similar problem? If so, what did you do to fix the problem? 

IbNueda.jpg

Fr0BWxj.jpg



#27 84720FourWheel

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 07:20 PM

Corrosion on connections, bad temp sensor, bad gauge. 

Ground out the sensor connector, it should peg the gauge. if not, its going to be the gauge or a connection.


It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#28 Charlie69

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 07:31 PM

My 86 had this problem turned out to be the guage, I have been into Datsun/Nissan trucks since the mid seenties so I know to keep spare parts around.  Junk yards are your friend unless you have room to store complete trucks for parts.  LOL



#29 MaxChlan

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 06:15 AM

Okay, what is the easiest way to ground the gauge, and where is the sensor located?  



#30 datzenmike

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 07:43 AM

The gauge should read almost halfway up in the 'run range'.

 

Sensor is just below the thermostat, Yellow/Black stripe wire. Just hold against the intake. Gauge should read full HOT.

 

1/ If it does read HOT either the connection is bad, the sender is bad or the engine is cold and the thermostat is stuck open.

2/ If it reads about the same then there is a problem between there and includes the gauge.

 

A low reading gauge could be anything but I would immediately change the thermostat. They don't last forever and this may have failed or stuck open and the engine never warms up. Spend $10 on one, not a WallMart $3.99.


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#31 84720FourWheel

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 09:23 AM

I had a similar issue, turned out to be the connection at the back of the gauge cluster was covered in gear oil that wicked up the speedo cable. Cleaned all that up and the gauge had worked perfectly since.
It's NOT a Toyota!

The leaks are part of the anti-corrosion system.

1984 Nissan 720, 1988 Nissan Pathfinder

#32 MaxChlan

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 07:46 PM

Fellas, I'm on the hunt for the clock that goes into the dash. I've been scouring Ebay and craigslist, and I can not seem to come across one at a non-outrageous price (There is a cluster on Ebay that has the clock, but the guy wants like $170 for it; fuck that). I have already posted in the Classifieds, but if anyone has a clock or knows of someone that does, please send me their way! Not having a clock in my vehicle has been surprisingly irritating.



#33 720inOlyWa

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 08:31 AM

The clock find is a right of passage. A test.

They are out there, and I have found them, but getting a good deal is the trick. I scored an entire dash cluster with clock and tach for $40. If you keep looking, one will turn up at a local wrecking yard. It is a great day when you score your clock! And the instrument cluster rehab project was actually a lot of fun. The clocks are quartz type, which last forever. I have yet to find a broken clock.



#34 MaxChlan

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 09:14 AM

The clock find is a right of passage. A test.

They are out there, and I have found them, but getting a good deal is the trick. I scored an entire dash cluster with clock and tach for $40. If you keep looking, one will turn up at a local wrecking yard. It is a great day when you score your clock! And the instrument cluster rehab project was actually a lot of fun. The clocks are quartz type, which last forever. I have yet to find a broken clock.

DrvnDrvr has one that he is going to test to insure it works; 60 bucks+ shipping seems fair to me. I am very excited



#35 Charlie69

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 05:50 PM

Fellas, a few quick question about tires:

 

The truck currently has Goodyear Wrangler RT/S 255 70r16's up front that have about 9/32 tread left, and pretty bald Dunlop AT21 265 70r16's in the back.  

 

What is the appropriate tires size for my truck? Seeing that I have two different widths/heights, I would like it to be uniform. 

 

Winter is coming, and I want to put some winter tires: I'm thinking about Blizzaks's or General Grabber Arctics, but what is your guys' experiences/preferences?

 

Because my front tires seem to be impossible to find, and the back ones are basically bald and causing some slight rattling at high speeds, I'm thinking about new spring/summer/fall tires, and I would like some pointers on what I should look for, or what you guys have on your 720's; I'm currently looking at Yoko Geolandar G015's, but I honestly do not have a brand preference. 

 

Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated!

Driver door jams there is a sticker that has lots of information Including biuld date and tire size. On the passenger inner fender is an aluminum plate that has engine, trans, and rear axle information.

 

It is best on a four wheel drive to have a matched set of 5 tires including the spare.  different height tires can cause problems when in four wheel drive.



#36 MaxChlan

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 08:54 PM

The gauge should read almost halfway up in the 'run range'.

 

Sensor is just below the thermostat, Yellow/Black stripe wire. Just hold against the intake. Gauge should read full HOT.

 

1/ If it does read HOT either the connection is bad, the sender is bad or the engine is cold and the thermostat is stuck open.

2/ If it reads about the same then there is a problem between there and includes the gauge.

 

A low reading gauge could be anything but I would immediately change the thermostat. They don't last forever and this may have failed or stuck open and the engine never warms up. Spend $10 on one, not a WallMart $3.99.

Well, I do not think it is the thermostat because I get heat relatively quickly in the cabin.

 

How exactly do you get to read full hot? My sensor plug has a little black dongle on it, and if I just hold it to the manifold, it won't ground because there isn't any contact on the outside of the dongle. 

 

Either way, my contacts were pretty green; I think it is cause to change the sensor, but I can't know that for sure until I insure it is not the gauge. 



#37 Lockleaf

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 09:36 AM

Jam something metal in the connector then ground it if it won't ground by itself

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#38 MaxChlan

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 11:48 AM

Thank you. I've never been happier to see a gauge read hot before. Well, now that I know that the gauge is working, it's just a $10 temperature sensor! I tried cleaning the contacts off with a brush and some elbow grease, but it still will not read past the point in the picture above. 



#39 MaxChlan

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 12:03 PM

Also, changed the oil and filter last week and seafoamed the carb, along with a full bottle of seafoam in the tank; runs like an absolute top! I keep finding excuses to drive!  :thumbup:



#40 MaxChlan

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 07:17 PM

So, according to 720InOlyWa I have completed my right of passage and transcended into an *actual* 720 owner

4yXtk2T.jpg

An image with it out of the glass:

xhYF6Nb.jpg

With the cluster out; can anyone tell me what that connector is in the back left? Looks like a six pin connector; the clock connector in my vehicle was taped up against the lower portion of the dash, to the left of where the cruise control and defrost would be; it eluded me for a good 20 minute:

MvvUaSR.jpg

I forget where I read this (maybe it was Nico), but someone had an issue with oil wicking up the speedo cable. Mine was absolutely covered: 

ak4za1u.jpg

Super big shout-out to DrvnDrvr for the clock; now all I need is an extra light to light it up, Does anyone know where to scoop one up?