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Melted spark plugs


pwrcat4000

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You should always replace the hard to get at and high ware items like the rear transmission seal where the driveshaft slides in. The other thing is the release bearing. There's nothing like having to do this three months later in the rain. You should never knowingly drive it around with unknown amount of gear lube in it. It's just a poor practice. Noise in all gears but forth is classic counter bearing failure and the weakest link in the dogleg is.... the counter bearing. If I was going to run one, I would replace it right off. Topping up with nice thick 80w90 may quiet it down if it was empty.

 

GL-4 oil for the transmission. Must be brass/copper alloy 'yelloe metal safe'. If not sure, find another brand. Synthetics are fine but tend to easily leak past old seals and drip. Do NOT use GL-5 in a Datsun transmission. GL-5 80w90 is only for the differential.  .  

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Thanks Mike you've always been helpful I will post the results

Now the counter bearing is that the one I replaced when I did my l20b the 200 millimeter or 225 millimeter bearing.

I thought about doing that but it was Sunday and I live in the middle of nowhere May have to pull it back out. If so so be it.

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Any wisdom on getting the fill plug out it's still square at the moment I've tried Crescent, 17 millimeter open end, even a pipe wrench with no luck. I don't want to screw it up it has absolutely no fluid in it now because I drained it all out.

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Blitzbobaggins, tryed heating it up with a propane torch and then penetrating lubricant did that several times using a four foot long pipe wrench still no luck. I am going to get a hand pump. I'm thinking since the fluid ran out the yolk maybe I could fill it that way.

Another option I thought of was removing the speedometer gear and filling it there. Third option would be filling it with a through the drain plug over filling in a little bit and if I quickly get the drain plug back in. None of these are optimal but that thing will not come out.

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Are you heating the plug or the surrounding aluminum case? If you're trying to remove it right away, heat around the plug. If you're trying to heat it so that it soaks up penetrating fluid. heat the plug to pretty darn hot, squirt it with WD40 (after it cools slightly or you'll catch the car on fire) and walk away. Come back after it cools completely and give it a try.

 

The second method works every time.

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Use the closed end of your wrench.

 

 

K. This is what I do...you may not have room, but it works great if you do.

 

Wrench, 12pt socket, whatever on plug. Have handle at about the 3 o'clock position.

You will be turning plug towards 12:00.

Big hammer...hit the wrench while pushing.

 

 

It will take a few whacks to get some movement out of it.

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I soaked a rag in pb blaster and wrapped it around the plug and left it overnight. The next day I heated it decently by welding new corners on to it as I had rounded them off completely. Then put my wrench on it, braced myself, and pushed with my leg hard as I could. When it broke free, my wrench shot like 30 feet out of my garage.

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Are you heating the plug or the surrounding aluminum case? If you're trying to remove it right away, heat around the plug. If you're trying to heat it so that it soaks up penetrating fluid. heat the plug to pretty darn hot, squirt it with WD40 (after it cools slightly or you'll catch the car on fire) and walk away. Come back after it cools completely and give it a try.

 

The second method works every time.

Ok I have been doing the first method about 30 minutes ago.

I have o2 acetylene torches and a propane hand held (thats what I  have been using).

 

"pretty darn hot" is not not cherry red so I assume I can keep with the propane.

 

LOL believe it or not had the Fire extinguisher at the ready, although if I burned it to the ground think of how peaceful it would be around here.

 

 

Use the closed end of your wrench.

 

 

K. This is what I do...you may not have room, but it works great if you do.

 

Wrench, 12pt socket, whatever on plug. Have handle at about the 3 o'clock position.

You will be turning plug towards 12:00.

Big hammer...hit the wrench while pushing.

 

 

It will take a few whacks to get some movement out of it.

 

I would have to pound a 12 pt wrench on there the more I work with it the less square it is getting.

 

If I cannot get this thing out I will have to add though an alt route. 

So

1975 and later 5-speed 4 1/4 pt. (2 liters) Sound right?

from http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech3.htm

 

I will go back and try again,  I needed to get my dog home for some water and treats :)

 

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OK, so you referred to the electrical connectors earlier, take one out in the main case that is the same level as the fill plug on either side of the transmission case, if there isn't one the same height or higher, then find one that is just slightly lower, then tilt the truck up on that side as much as needed to fill the case to the correct level.

You have to fill the main case, not the tail shaft case.

I have never in all my years filled a noisy transmission and had it quiet it, once they are noisy they are a time bomb waiting to explode, if 4th is quiet and all the other gears are noisy, then one of the counter shaft(cluster gear) bearings is bad or going out, a sure sign of this is if the clutch is pushed in and the transmission is in gear, there will be no noise, but if you put it in neutral and let the clutch out it will start making noise, don't keep driving it if it is making noise, a bearing can come out and get between the gears and destroy the transmission, I know this because it has happened to me, I just had to get back home since I was only 5 blocks away, I destroyed the transmission.

It's not that hard to replace the front lower cluster gear bearing, but the transmission has to be out of the vehicle.

If it makes noise when you push the clutch pedal in, that would be the throw out bearing being bad/going bad, don't drive it this way either, as it will smoke the clutch cover/pressure plate fingers, also the clutch arm has to be slightly loose/have a 1/16th inch play, if it doesn't have this play you will smoke the throw out bearing eventually.

Driving it without enough gear oil in the transmission is like running the engine with one quart of oil, it will throw a rod at some point, more than likely sooner than later.

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Thanks wayno that's what I am going to do I just about cut my pinky finger off trying to get that mf out it ain't happening. It probably is a bad bearing I started looking at exploded views and listening to what Datsun Mike said.

The drain plug looked good. It had a pretty good amount of fluid in it

I got it with the engine anyway. The the engine is great. Worst case scenario I put my 4 speed back in.

I know it's solid.  I am not looking forward to wrestling that f in 4 speed transmission back in. Maybe it's meant to be a 4-speed.

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I doubt that penetrating oils work on it. By design of the taper threads and the bung it's an interference fit. This is why the fill and drain bungs never leak, they can't. Other nut and bolt threads are different and there is a small space between the tips of the bolt thread and the bottoms of the nut thread. Here's another fact. Aluminum and steel will seize together over time. Tighten something 20 pounds and later it takes 30 to snap it loose. Something like galling or cold welding. Dissimilar metals that corrode together I guess.

 

Get the car high in the air and very well supported. Use a pipe wrench and about 18 or more inches of leverage. Tighten the pipe wrench so it is dangling. Climb under and with care, kick suddenly and strongly in the loosening direction. If you remove the transmission have the pipe at a 45 degree angle and step down on it. Hard. You have to take this out anyway, so forget filling through the speedo/reverse switch.... it might work but you aren't stuck out on the highway.

 

Use anti seize when assembling, can't hurt.

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OK, I am not a fan of Dogleg 5 speeds, I think they are a great choice in a car/510, they are a terrible choice in a truck.

That said I have only pulled one of them apart before, so I could not tell you what is actually wrong with one generally, I have never heard of one of them loosing a cluster gear bearing before, perhaps because they go bad for other reasons like 5th gear howling like a wounded dog, the only one I did pull apart fell into pieces when I got the case off, I wanted to see why it locked up.

OK, to get my dogleg I had out of my 521 work truck without removing the engine I had to remove the clutch cover/disc, then I had just enough room to drop it out.

Tell me this, did you pull out the shift lever cover on the tunnel in the interior, you will never get it out with that in position, that has to be removed to pull and install any transmission without removing the engine in a 521, that is why it is there.

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Started from the bottom now we're here
Started from the bottom now my whole team fucking here

 

fAp7wWyl.jpg

Filled it from the bottom now I'm here!

 

I2EvEGHb.jpg

 

Filled it from the bottom now my whole RATSUN team fucking here.

 

4oi6o3bb.jpg

 

Yes Barnyard engineering !
Filled it from the bottom. Though the drain plug Woop De fucking Dooooo!!! .....Yup still makes noise.

Oh well it was fun to solve the fill plug problem, don't use it.

 

Back in with the 4 speed hooray I might tackle the rebuild of the 5 speed never worked on any transmissions before does not look that daunting though from the exploded views.  Then agin just drive it with the 4 speed after i put it back in.
 

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Thanks to everyone who helped me.

I sincerely appreciate all of the great advice.

You all are my rock, or should I say my fill plug,

mXxwCOxm.jpg

Yah fill plug that is definitely tougher than some dumb old rock!

 

FYI I'm editing some of my old posts, did them on the phone and I sound like I failed preschool.

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You didn't?

Flatcat19 I think your way would have worked, had I tried it first, by the time I pounded the wrench on the fill plug was pretty chewed up.

Did you mean "Oh no he didhunt"

Hey Desperate times...

I remember my GM dealer trying to get me to install some kind of weird oil plug 4 or 5 years ago.  I change my own oil so that would have been pointless. plus I bet it would have leaked.

Shit i just realized you all probably think I just left it that way. 

NO

That would be some using bailing wire and duct tape to fix your nuclear reactor kind of shit. LOL

I put the drain plug back in, very very quickly and tightened it up.

I had minimal loss.

I had a clean catch pan under it in case I f-ed it up and it all ran out, but I practiced with it empty.

I did not loose enough to measure it was 1/4 oz if that

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Draker,

Just in case you wanted to know.

It has ~69 ounces in it. I measured it in a Graduate before putting it in. I figured I would lose about one ounce when I switched the filler for the plug, but I did better than I thought I would. I tried to measure what I lost during the switch back into my graduate but there wasn't enough too measure, so it is <1oz over. But all my measurements did not matter because it's still makes noise.

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