scooter Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Ouchie WA WA! That's an ugly one, but it'll bore to the next oversize. I've had heads a lot worse than that welded up. May be cheaper to find another head but in case one can't be found, that one can be welded up, new seats installed and the chamber cleaned up. Don't think about putting a new head on that block. The ring lands will be destroyed and the top ring is probably ring pieces now. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 So excited 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 DOGLEG!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 just put the motor in. if 5 speed you need to fab the rear trans mount 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 just put the motor in. if 5 speed you need to fab the rear trans mount If you look closely at picture 3 you will see just such a modified mount just above the shift lever. Every thing was pulled from already modified 521 (from the engine to the Differential the mount even the speedo cable) they were just separated them to get them home. Banzai510 Is there a good link or any other things I should know about the trannie swap (since the motor was already a L20B) On the trans I am concerned about the connections to the 5sp. Also noticed when separating things that it has a 200mm car style clutch and flywheel which is a shame since I replaced my clutch a couple months back. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 if you use your 225mm stuff use all of it. even the fork lever. this is just my opinion. if the clutch was new as you say. Inspect the T /O bearing just incase you want another new one as they are cheap. this newer motor(200mm parts) bag and label the clutch parts for the future. if needed. really ask Datzenmike on this I stick with all 200mm stuff as thats all I have and really dont get(CANT) stuff mixed up 2 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 What are the difference of the electrical hookups on the 4 speed, compared to the 5 speed? My 4 Speed had 6 electrical connectors the 5 speed only has 4. And they are damaged and cut I'm sure it will work if I look up nothing. Not really sure why there are any electrical connections except for the reverse light connector. Sorry the picture is so blurry on the 5 speed Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 On would most likely be the third gear switch for retarding the timing in third for emissions. Another probably is a neutral switch. And of course, the reverse switch 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Top to bottom (no neutral switch) Top Gear (yellow wires).... (Reverse (not shown) is on the front case same height as the Top Gear position) Picture too blurry may be a 4th gear switch (may also be considered 'top gear'.) for emissions use. Top to bottom... Neutral Third Reverse 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Thank you Mike That gives me enough information to try and figure it out. I put the transmission and engine in today and everything is working well I am getting a lot of noise out of the tranny but it had been sitting for quite a while. Also I I'm sure it is low on fluid I lost a lot of fluid out of it just putting it in since it is a yoke Style transmission. I guess my question is how do I check the fluid in the 5 speed what type of gear oil would you recommend? Regular 90? I don't know if it's just because it's low on fluid or something more ominous but in the 4 blocks that I drove it R 1st 2nd 3rd and 5th all whine 4th gear sounds awesome. I probably also need to do some clutch adjustment had it way to lose to the beginning and the truck would barely move. I will have to play with it a little bit. With my history of breaking things the noise is concerning to me so it's going to sit in the shop until one of the awesome people on this list can inform me. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Wow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 You drove it knowing it was low on gear oil? Let's hope you didn't hurt it, but it sounds like it's too late. Before you spend good money on expensive synthetic gear oil, you need to make sure the gearbox is still usable. Go buy a couple quarts of the cheapest gear oil you can find and a repair manual. Based on the fact that you didn't know that driving a car low on fluids is a bad thing, you may want to read that manual cover to cover before you attempt any more repairs. 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 19mm square plug or 1/2" female plug on side of transmission. Remove plug. If fluid trickles out, full. To fill, Find a long section of hose that will fit in fill hole. Feed hose through engine bay. Insert funnel into hose. Yellow safe GL-4 fluid only. Very important. Sta-lube. Redline. Royal Purple. You just blew up your 4 speed. Now you go out and possibly damaged a 5 speed because you didn't check the fluid? Really? Good chance there was a very minimum amount in the 5 speed when you installed it. I know I drain parts that have fluid before I remove them from cars. Good work. 3 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 If you installed it and it didn't dump fluid out the output... it's empty. Duh. 2 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Don't freak out. I drove it around one city block 4 blocks then parked it. I just wanted to see if all the gears worked. My 4 Speed is fine new cluch bearings the works there is nothing wrong with it. I just wanted a 5 speed and had an opportunity to buy one with a l20b motor. My previous L20b other hand head valve train problems from the day I took it out of a rolled 620. I babied it and was able to keep it running for 2 years. It finally ate the valves seats, so instead of sourcing a head and gambling that the bottom end did not get hurt. I got lucky and found an l20b that had already been mated to a 5-speed inside a 521. They were split apart when I got them but I got all the parts to put it in my truck. The motor runs great, all the gears in the transmission work. Fluid was still running out of the tail shaft when I put it in the truck and put the yokebak in. I am going to watch it closely as I may need to replace the seal if it starts dripping but for now it looks to be sealed. It was not empty by any means. I am not at all concerned that I damaged it in 4 blocks. I needed to check to see what fluids before I started driving the truck and where the fill plug is. So now that all that is said. Flatcat I want to drain the whole thing and replace the fluids with new I doubt there's a filter or anything like is in an automatic trans. It looks like there is a drain plug in the center bottom of the trans? Is that the drain plug? Yellow safe GL-4 fluid only. Thank you man! Does that come in multiple viscosities or is it just all the same? If it's important: I believe the transmission is out of a 1980's vehicle but I'm not totally sure just getting by the logo on the stick. I figured it was something like an inspection plug or something that's how the rear ends on my other old cars. Any idea how much I should buy volume wise i am guessing it comes in 1qt bottles? I'm sure I could look it up but you can only get so much from a book better to talk to someone who's done it if you ask me. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Bottom plug to drain. No filters in manual transmissions. sta-lube 85w90 gl4 from napa.. or amazon. fill until running out of fill plug.. will be less than 2 qts. 2 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Will do Draker. No place open today in puckerbrush, KS Especially at this hour. Lol Napa is open tomorrow!!! Thanks for the info. Brother. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 StaLube is your friend. Not cheap though. And I would recommend buying a few bottles for one of those Just In Case moments Datsuns seem to have all too often. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 While I am under there want to change the diff fluid. What's the recommended fluid for that? I am guessing it has never been changed. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Diff fluid...meh. Whatever you can find Not as sensitive as the tranny is. Any 90w will do ya fine in the rear. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Yup. Just said that. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Rotflol Ya, I want to say I got that, but I never want to get that... ever. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Pretty sure they take around 2 quarts..... I think Draker mis-typed the 1-quart thing. Don;t put red line in it, even their ML90 which is supposed to cover ML-4 requirements. My 5-speed didn't like it at all, had to shift very slow into both 2nd & 3rd, or it would grind. It didn't like Mobil-1 either, and I would bet that the Royal Purple, being synthetic would also have syncro issues. But it surely likes the Stay-Lube :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Pretty sure they take around 2 quarts..... I think Draker mis-typed the 1-quart thing. Don;t put red line in it, even their ML90 which is supposed to cover ML-4 requirements. My 5-speed didn't like it at all, had to shift very slow into both 2nd & 3rd, or it would grind. It didn't like Mobil-1 either, and I would bet that the Royal Purple, being synthetic would also have syncro issues. But it surely likes the Stay-Lube :) yes should have been less than 2. I'll fix 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Its about $10 per quart 1 Quote Link to comment
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