Datfish Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 I want to know what my machinist needs to re-hone to when re-sizing my L16 rods. Standard crank and rod brgs. I know he has access to the specs, but I like to verify things. I have an original L16 manual, and checked the other sites, and can't find it printed. I read in a post on here 53mm, but wonder why I can't find it in a manual. Boy, they like to give pin dia. and clearances and ring fit, etc.....don't get why this isn't part of the standard specs listed? Its a 73 and had the big rod bolts, btw. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Every shop I have ever used measure in inches, so don't confuse them with a metric number. I have that data, somewhere, on paper, deep in my files. You'll probably get it from someone else before I can dig it up. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 It is the same as the L18, L24, L26 and the L28 Quote Link to comment
Datfish Posted August 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 They take up space to show bearing thickness, how to measure crush, but not big end, weird. Yes, I would convert it, don't have any metric gauges. Quote Link to comment
Datfish Posted August 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Perplexing, no? 2.0866 in. Still want to see it documented..... 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Datsun L rebuild book has all those specs. My book is at home on the shelf. No help from me at this moment. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 It is the same as the L18, L24, L26 and the L28 Also L14, L16, L20B, Z20, Z22, Z24, Z24i 1 Quote Link to comment
Datfish Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 I will add here so as not to make a new thread, and hope it's not prohibited...But I took a chance on this guy selling NOS main bearings for $28.... From Kuwait http://www.ebay.com/sch/ukstar76/m.html?ssPageName=&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2654I thought it was worth the gamble for $7 shipping and sure enough, almost a month later they arrived!Honest guy. Feel like it was a good score since I saw them for over $100 on a site.$34 total.I could prolly sell the stamps on the package for half that, lolI has oics, but must upload from iPhone.They have a little mottled tarnish, I would think each package is of various condition, haven't peeled off the shrink wrap yet, I hope they'll be ok. Looks like he has a couple more, and his feedback shows a lot of rare Datsun parts, some reproductions, some real. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 What is the stamping on the back of the bearings? NDG is the OEM manufacturer. It has a little oval or circle with the letters stamped inside the circle. Those are the best bearings for an L motor. A lot of the newer bearings "muddle" or otherwise deteriorate under heavy load and generally don't last as long. Aluminum engine bearings (like those from King) suck ass. 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Bought an unfired rebuilt Supra engine once, just for the parts that were in it, that had Wiseco pistons, Crower rods, a new crank, but King bearings. Worst damn bearings I've ever seen! Bearing surface was ripply, like a lays chip. Back sides had different colors of paint dabs (inspection marks?) that the young guy didn't realise played hell with bearing clearances. Threw the damn things away. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Different colors could coincide with different thickness. But paint...? Weird. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 I used the clevite bearing manual for the journal specs, I would hone the mains around the middle of the spec and the rods at the minimum for max crush. Crank usually always on the small side of the spec. I don't build them tight. I usually use clevite trimetal bearings in coated or uncoated versions. They have paint but its usually on the edge facing a crank fillet so its fine. And I agree with stoff king bearings are shit. They distort under heavy load, lose their crush and spin. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 For a time, Clevite bearings were NDG stamped. I like to run them in the mid to tight range. Where spec is .0018 to. 003, I aim for the .0020-.0022 range. Quote Link to comment
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