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Rod big end spec L16


Datfish

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I want to know what my machinist needs to re-hone to when re-sizing my L16 rods.

Standard crank and rod brgs.

I know he has access to the specs, but I like to verify things.

I have an original L16 manual, and checked the other sites, and can't find it printed.

I read in a post on here 53mm, but wonder why I can't find it in a manual.

Boy, they like to give pin dia. and clearances and ring fit, etc.....don't get why this isn't part of the standard specs listed?

Its a 73 and had the big rod bolts, btw.

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I will add here so as not to make a new thread, and hope it's not prohibited...
But I took a chance on this guy selling NOS main bearings for $28.... From Kuwait

http://www.ebay.com/sch/ukstar76/m.html?ssPageName=&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2654

I thought it was worth the gamble for $7 shipping and sure enough, almost a month later they arrived!
Honest guy. Feel like it was a good score since I saw them for over $100 on a site.
$34 total.
I could prolly sell the stamps on the package for half that, lol
I has oics, but must upload from iPhone.
They have a little mottled tarnish, I would think each package is of various condition, haven't peeled off the shrink wrap yet, I hope they'll be ok. Looks like he has a couple more, and his feedback shows a lot of rare Datsun parts, some reproductions, some real.

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What is the stamping on the back of the bearings? NDG is the OEM manufacturer. It has a little oval or circle with the letters stamped inside the circle. Those are the best bearings for an L motor.

 

A lot of the newer bearings "muddle" or otherwise deteriorate under heavy load and generally don't last as long.

 

Aluminum engine bearings (like those from King) suck ass.

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Bought an unfired rebuilt Supra engine once, just for the parts that were in it, that had Wiseco pistons, Crower rods, a new crank, but King bearings.

Worst damn bearings I've ever seen!

Bearing surface was ripply, like a lays chip.

Back sides had different colors of paint dabs (inspection marks?) that the young guy didn't realise played hell with bearing clearances.

Threw the damn things away.

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I used the clevite bearing manual for the journal specs, I would hone the mains around the middle of the spec and the rods at the minimum for max crush. Crank usually always on the small side of the spec. I don't build them tight.

 

I usually use clevite trimetal bearings in coated or uncoated versions. They have paint but its usually on the edge facing a crank fillet so its fine.

 

And I agree with stoff king bearings are shit.

They distort under heavy load, lose their crush and spin.

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