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7/8 master cylinder has no pressure initial step


DatMo

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I have never bench bleed a system .

 

However I had a clutch slave suck in air. swapped out

 

Then also a Clutch master not pump. I stuck my finger over the hole inside the resivoir then had soemone(kid in the hood) pump the pedal then  it starterd working.

 

Had a brake master not release. Would slowly pump up eveytime I hit the brake. swapped that out then was fine.

 

I use a clear tube goin into a bottle with fluid and when clear then I close the bleeder.(cause I have no friends)

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No one said drive it.

 

 

When you removed the hose to tighten the bleeders, you introduced air back in to the circuit you were trying to remove air from.

 

Put the hose through the he in your wrench for the bleeder. Try again.

 

 

 

And while you're doing g all of this...just know you probably still have a bad master cylinder.

Take it back and get it exchanged. Lie to them and say you did bench bleed it. Won't hold pressure.

Will do. As far as driving that was to roadster ka. I'll do all of this tonight.
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Gonna get a friend to help me out tonight that has some steadier hands than me so he can tighten the tube without missing the boss lol but regardless I'm gonna adjust the pedal 1/4 and see if that helps.

 

I haven't driven it to readjust the rears because the pedal has no pressure and I'm not gonna risk the car.

I didnt just adjust the pedal a 1/4" .I added length to it.

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There has to be a small amount of pedal play. Generally a few mm or just enough to feel pushing on the pedal with your thumb. Without play, the piston may not fully return to it's rest position and pressure cannot push fluid back into the reservoir and is trapped in the lines. Progressively the pressure builds till the brakes lock or the brakes drag when they shouldn't. On the other side of the coil you don't want excessive play either least your pedal hit the floor before you get enough pressure to get stopped.

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