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Restoring a Vintage 510 Racer


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I also have the bre flares sitting in the car. 

 

If you're referring to these:

 

 

ECBA3B8E-E2FA-4035-930D-51D2E4844E88_zps

 

 

Those are not BRE flares. They didn't have bumper notches in them, and BRE never made bolt-on flares for the 510. They look like one of the many repros of the Japanese flares now sold by Refresh60 and a few others.  :thumbup:

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Hello Ratsun Team,

 

I'm looking to rebuild the hydraulic systems. Does it look like I have a stock brake setup? If it is, would now be the appropriate time to upgrade? I'm running a 13 x 7 wheel.

 

I'm reasonably confident that the hydraulic clutch system is stock, would there be reason to believe otherwise?

 

Thanks all,

 

Brian

 

Your breaks themselves are stock. Not sure about the master cylinders, but I see no reason they would be altered. Likely kept that way for the racing class the car was in. As for the hydraulics, they are not expensive so you may want to spring a few bucks and get new masters. $150 for break and clutch on Ermish's site. http://www.ermish-racing.com/online-store

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Hey all,

 

A few friends and I will attempt to start it tomorrow. I all bought a full compliment of hydraulic parts to get it back on the street (clutch and brake parts).

 

I will try to get video and pictures at the minimum.

 

I was hoping y'all could address the ride's sneakers.

 

1. Recommendations for cleaning the corrosion and 25 years worth of grime off the libres, I was thinking bar keepers friend and the mothers ball

2. What tire and size would be appropriate for the 13x7

 

Thank you,

Brian Kamaksun

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Hey all,

 

A few friends and I will attempt to start it tomorrow. I all bought a full compliment of hydraulic parts to get it back on the street (clutch and brake parts).

 

Thank you,

Brian Kamaksun

 

Okay Brian, it's tomorrow, were you able to get it running? If not, what did you find? Inquiring minds want to know.

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We were not able to get it running for more than a few seconds. The carb (Weber that was on it) is the culprit. We were going to swap it for the new Weber but when we pulled the mounting posts, it was held on with lock nuts. We are going to try mounting the new one today or tomorrow. Other than that everything seems in good working order. There is compression, oil pressure and spark. Most importantly, the VDO clock works when the battery is connected.

 

I'll update everyone once we take a few more steps.

 

Happy Monday,

 

KamakSun

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I paused the project for a few days. On Monday, one of my best friends lost his battle against cancer. Mark Goldberg was a very active member of San Diegos car community. He worked as an analyst for the San Diego Sheriffs department and was a member of many car clubs. He drove a tan fox body mustang up until the clutch was too hard for him to operate so he purchased an automatic C4 vette. Although he is free of the terrible pain, he is deeply missed.

 

God bless,

Brian Kamak

KamakSun

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If it's miner as it sounds like yours is, it will have no effect. Dished low compression pistons were stock solutions for lowering emissions, but that's not to say your motor wasn't rebuilt at some point with larger pistons. Do you know what head you have? Look on the bottom edge of the head on the spark plug side. You should see a letter and two digit number that identifies it. That will tell you if you have an open (lower compression), or a closed (higher compression) head.

 

 

Also, did you pull the valve cover to put some oil on the valve train? It would be interesting to see if you have an after market cam.

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Hello Ratsun Community,

 

I am ready to install the pertronix flame thrower coil and ignitor ignition. I did some searching here but there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer. With the 3ohm coil and ignitor points replacement, do I run the ballast resistor?

 

Thank you,

 

KamakSun

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Hello Community,

 

After the carb, I went on to replace the points with Pertronix and the coil.  The car wouldn't turn over so I replaced the wire, rotor and plugs (cap looked brand new).  Sure enough, it started right up!

 

Last night I replaced the clutch hydraulics but the system won't bleed.  I believe this is due to the pedal linkage needing adjusting.  The adjusting rod is long and hits the pedal so I believe that may have to be trimmed.

 

Last week I sent the gas tank to Intermountian Radiator in Powayto have it cooked and coated.  I plan on picking it up tomorrow.  I really, really need some recommendations on how to economical replace the filler hose.

 

Thanks all!

 

KamakSun

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