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Restoring a Vintage 510 Racer


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Hello Ratsun Community,

 

I recently picked up a 69 510 with box flares and a L20B.  The car was sitting for 25 years and my first task is to prep the motor to run and see if it is still fit.  Here is a list of things that I have done in preparation:

  1. Changed oil and filter
  2. New plugs
  3. New wires
  4. Freed the throttle linkage with PB Blast
  5. Poured marvel mystery into the plug holes
  6. Turn the crank by hand at least ten rotations, twice a day for the past two days (as the doc ordered).

I had the pleasure of meeting Paradime at one of my local car meets and with his mentor-ship, he advised that I start this topic as well as create a photo bucket account.  I am very new to 510s and all of the help I can get in bringing this car back to life is greatly appreciated.

 

I have a bunch of back up parts including 4 different intake options and 3 exhaust manifold/headers to choose from.

 

Please let me know where to start next and what pictures you'd like me to post.  Here is the bring a trailer listing, http://bringatrailer.com/2016/07/28/ex-rally-road-race-project-1969-datsun-510/

 

I would like to clean the heavily corroded Libre wheels while the engine is loosening up.  Any recommendations on a gentle solution that I can't mess up?

 

Thanks all!

 

Brian Kamak

(KamakSun)

 

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Will do, I'll have something up by Wednesday    :thumbup:

 

Here are some to tie you over.

 

Please identify this exhaust manifold

B87D7A60-80BB-423F-A7B8-5E62D6548099_zps

 

 

 

And would I use these two carbs together on the Cannon dual carb manifold?  One say 45DCOE 13 and the other say 45DCOE9

AD548C73-7727-4F67-BEF7-27C3AF03A156_zps

 

956DEA02-783C-4F22-BB54-792A9329D910_zps

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That looks like a stock, (not SSS) exhaust. As for the duel side draft set up, I would wait to see what you have in the motor before making any decisions on the carb setup. Eventually some one will pipe in on wether those Webers are compatible. I would imagine if they are the same diameter they could be jetted to match. 

 

Those flares are BAD ASS!!!

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Specs for both the 9 an 13 appear in the Haynes manual as shown:
45 DCOE.................................... 9..................13

choke size..................................32-38............33-34
venturi.......................................3.5-5.0..........3.5-4.5
main jet.....................................1.25-1.65.......1.3-1.6
emulsion tube..............................F2,F16,F20.....F2,F16
air corrector jet...........................1.50-1.90.......1.70-1.90
idle jet.......................................0.45-0.65.......0.45-0.55
idle jet.......................................F6,F8,F9........F4,F8,F9
accel pump jet............................0.40-0.60.......0.40-0.60
accel pmp int valve w/exh orifice....closed, 0.50....closed,0.50,0.55
needle valve...............................2.00,2.25........2.25

 

There are differences in the age of these carbs, but they appear to be matchable.

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Pull the plugs out and put like 4 ounces of automatic Trans fluid, in the cylinders, let it sit in there for at least over night hand rotate, then starter rotate with no ignition, then once fuel and electrical is done, use temp fuel tank, small bottle off to the side, and you can do a gravity feed if pump is trash, a little starter fluid, not gas poured any where close to a possible carb back fire, make sure you have an approved extinguisher close and good luck!

You will get a cool white smoke burn till the Trans fluid burns out.

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I got my 510 out of a field after years of sitting, in my experience if it turns, it should run. It may not run wonderfully, but it should run. I'd get a bottle of ER, if you can find it, and put it in the oil. It helps free old ring and helps old engines run more smoothly. As for carbs, the one on it is probably set up for it, get it running before messing with changing them around. Exhaust, the short header is complete shit, a paperweight at best. The long tube is said to be good but your stock manifold is a desirable model and probably best option. Good luck, remember datsuns love to be driven as if stolen.

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I love it when cars like this pop out of the woodwork after 25 years. Do you have any history on the car?

 

Here's some history on an earlier thread. Check out the  BAT link and there's a bunch more.

 

Hi Stoffregen,

 

I'm still trying to piece the history together.   It looks like it was SVRA vintage raced.  Here is the link to the bring a trailer listing.

 

http://bringatrailer.com/2016/07/28/ex-rally-road-race-project-1969-datsun-510/

 

The car was last run in Denver in 89.

 

The owner told me that the car sat because he wanted his wife to learn how to autocross with it but she never did.

 

For the past couple of days, I've been pouring Marvel Mystery Oil in the plug openings and spinning the motor by hand.  Changed the oil plugs and wires, the cap and rotor look good.

 

I'll be running new fuel lines straight from a gas can.

 

Any other tips for starting a motor that has sat for 25 years?

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Exhaust, the short header is complete shit, a paperweight at best. The long tube is said to be good but your stock manifold is a desirable model and probably best option. Good luck, remember datsuns love to be driven as if stolen.

 

KamakSun, The long header you have would be the better for top end power, but the stock mani will be a much better street system. Here's what that SSS exhaust manifold I was talking about looks like. Super desirable. 

 

SSS.jpg

 

Also, can someone chime in here, does the 69 have raised control arm pivot points on the cross member, or was that just the 68?

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Hello Ratsun Team,

 

I'm looking to rebuild the hydraulic systems. Does it look like I have a stock brake setup? If it is, would now be the appropriate time to upgrade? I'm running a 13 x 7 wheel.

 

I'm reasonably confident that the hydraulic clutch system is stock, would there be reason to believe otherwise?

 

Thanks all,

 

Brian

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