Narrowing the rear suspension, idea? have you done it?

[Icehouse]

So now that I've been autoXing my 510 a ton I've realized something else I want to fix.  Why is it with stock front struts that the rear requires a more positive offset wheel than the front if you want to run less than 3 degrees of camber in the rear.  It's so stupid!  Right now I have 195 50 15's on 15x7 +25 even with removing the inner step I still have to run 3.3 degrees of camber.  I want to get down to like 1 degree, I'd also like to run a 225 45 13 so I need over an inch more tire.  I was thinking about moving the arm pivot points inward, this would also get the track length back since when you go past a level arm the wheel base gets shorter.  Help me guys!  

[thisismatt]

Not that I ever completed the project, but you could convert the rear arm bushings to heim joints like I did, which are narrower than the bushings, then use different length misalignment spacers and/or washers to move the arms in or out as desired. The heims also give you toe adjustment and then all you need is slotted mounts for camber adjustment. I cut off the stock mounts and put in square tube with one face cut off to give me more room for longer slots.

[thisismatt]

These pictures make me sad I sold everything :(

 

 

 

 

 

 

Axle length becomes an issue. These are zx arms btw

[q-tip]

I was thinking of something like what Matt did but utilizing Byron's camber brackets and the very inside of the outer mount.

[DISLEXICDIME]

Build another 510 with flares problem solved

[Trophy24]

My wheel hit the rear control arm and had to be spaced out to clear. This may also be a limiting factor. I have a spare rear crossmember, 2 control arms for prototyping and some time to invest in this. PM me if you are interested

 

This is with a 195/50R15 (with no spring ha ha)

[DaBlist]

I'm narrowing the rear track on a 2002. Had Dutchman Motorsports in Idaho shorten and re-spline the axles. I cut up another mustache bar and welded the outer legs on top of the other one to move the mounting points in, up and forward. Not focused on autocrossing though, more for low with deep dish rims under stock sheet metal with out excessive camber.

 

 

 

[q-tip]

Could also make some tubular control arms to gain the wheel clearance on the arm and make the mounting point further inboard.

[thisismatt]

The zx arms have more room for wider wheels, but require higher offset

[INDY510]

I've heard ZX arms make the rear suspension an inch wider on each side, or maybe one inch total? .... Also, when the tires start hitting control arms, they also start hitting the inner wheel wells, by the shock towers.

[q-tip]

There is a lot of shit in the way under a 510, to really get a good setup you almost have to back half the car.

[Z23T]

I vote for moving the pickup points in about an inch, and profiling the shape of the 510 control arms for more tire clearance like the 280ZX arms above. I have 280ZX arms on my 510 and I had to build a custom version of the Pendultimate cross member to make them fit because the 280ZX arms are wider and have way more toe built into their design. I'm running 205/60R14 tires on 14 x 5.5 Libre's and have almost 2" of tire clearance towards the center of the car. I'm running a little over 2 degrees of camber to get the tires to clear, but a wheel with more positive offset would allow me to get closer to the 1 degree you are looking for.

 

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[Z23T]

These pictures make me sad I sold everything :(

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Axle length becomes an issue. These are zx arms btw

Did you make those pieces for adjusting the toe and camber, or is it something you bought? Thanks, Cam.

[thisismatt]

Did you make those pieces for adjusting the toe and camber, or is it something you bought? Thanks, Cam.

Bought the heim joints, the misalignment spacers, and the threaded tube ends for the heims. Made the other stuff...a bit crude but works

[Z23T]

Bought the heim joints, the misalignment spacers, and the threaded tube ends for the heims. Made the other stuff...a bit crude but works

Thanks for the info, but I should have been a little more specific. I was wondering about the black pieces on the pivot shaft bolts that would be used for making adjustments of toe and camber. Did you make those or are they something you bought? 

[thisismatt]

Thanks for the info, but I should have been a little more specific. I was wondering about the black pieces on the pivot shaft bolts that would be used for making adjustments of toe and camber. Did you make those or are they something you bought?

Made them. They are just a hex coupling nut welded to a washer, and then powder coated by myself as well. Bolt is a SS socket head cap screw with a stop collar & washers drilled through the crossmember flange.

[Icehouse]

These pictures make me sad I sold everything :(

 

 

 

 

 

 

Axle length becomes an issue. These are zx arms btw

 

 

 

You should just get a beater 510 to fix up and drive.  Drive and slowly upgrade, they are funner that way.  

 

I've thought about using Heim joints but technically that's the wrong way to use them.  They are designed to be in tension or compression.  Side loaded isn't advisable.  Check this cool article on Heim joints.  

 

 

http://www.aurorabearing.com/pdf/rod-ends.pdf

 

 

I think I'm going to leave the rubber bushings and move the LCA's inboard an inch and see what happens.  

[volkswagner]

Dual A-arm rear sub-frame, join me Jeff, join me.... 

[paradime]

Dual A-arm rear sub-frame, join me Jeff, join me.... 

Can I watch?

 

I've played around with a design for a single heim trailing arm (like the BMW M3), dual I arms with inner pickups off a plate replacing the mustache bar.

[Z23T]

Made them. They are just a hex coupling nut welded to a washer, and then powder coated by myself as well. Bolt is a SS socket head cap screw with a stop collar & washers drilled through the crossmember flange.

 

Cool, thanks.

[paradime]

Very rough concept of a trailing double I arm rear suspension. I know the geometry isn't correct, but you get the basic idea.

 

[q-tip]

^^^^thats something I've done some thinking about, just redesign using what's already there for the most part.

[paradime]

Exactly. It would be the easiest and cheapest way to make a viable kit. Cut out the bearing housing off the stock trailing arm and you could use all the hub hardware, and the the shock and sway bar connections. I have no idea how to calculate the geometry though. From what I've been told it's no cake walk.