KamakSun Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Hello Ratsun Community. I purchased an ex-vintage 510 race-car that has been siting for 25+ years. I'm in the process of getting the car to start. I have many intake options that came with the car and was hoping someone would tell me what would be the most appropriate setup to use just to get the car running. The current setup is an L20B with a single cannon carb manifold with a weber 45DCOE 12. Additionally, I would like to know if there is a difference between two webers I have. Basically, can they be used together successfully on the dual cannon setup. They are marked as: 1. TIPO 45DCOE 13 2. TIPO 45DCOE9 To get the car initially running, here is a list of the manifold options I have in the parts bin that came with the car: 1. Stock Intake Manifold 2. Dual carb SU Intake Manifold, has a heat shield 3. Single carb Cannon Manifold (currently bolted on) 4. Dual carb Cannon Manifold To get the car initially running, here is a list of the carburetor options I have in the parts bin that came with the car: 1. Stock carb? (has a glass window on the side) 2. Weber 45DCOE 13 (currently bolted on) 3. Weber 45DCOE9 4. Dual SU, unsure of their size, they have a large bowl with a nipple at the end of the bowl Thanks all for your patience in working with me. It is greatly appreciated especially since I am soooo lacking in knowledge. Very respectfully, Brian Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 I would just open the currant carb up, and go after it with a can of carb cleaner. No doubt, after 25 years, if there was any gas left in it, it will have long sence turned to varnish. Once cleaned, it should run as good as the day it was put in storage. Oh, and same goes with the gas tank........ Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 If you have a Weber DGV, I would use that and a stock intake to get it running and work all the bugs out. DGV's are dirt simple and will allow you to focus on other things. Do you have pics of this vintage race car? How vintage? What class? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 This, both above. Side draft probably was on the car and running.... unless the cause of why the car was parked. The stock carb (has glass window at the front) and intake might be easier to trouble shoot and get running then swap over to the side draft. Which begs the question... why was this sitting for 25 years?? If running and in good shape they usually are not parked. Again a simpler carb might be easier to get it running and find out. All out performance... dual weber side drafts. Dual SUs 2 bolt manifold mount are 38mm and used on L16/18. If carbs are not mirror image of each other they are likely Roadster 1600/410/4111600SSS carbs. Four bolt (on a 2 bolt manifold) can be 46mm from early Roadster or later 240Z car. Very vintage looking and beats the stock 2 barrel downdraft. 38mm may be small for a hot L20B engine. 1 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I actually met KamakSun at a car show in San Diego the day before to took possession of his car. I also saw some facetime video of the car and parts he has. The story of the car is the PO got it for his wife so she could have something to race and it never made it out of the shop. Over the years it looked like the guy collected a lot of parts with the intention of running it in SCCA vintage class, but the rules had changed so much it would have cost a fortune to get it up to date. Needs chassis work, breaks, proper seat, fuel cell, battery box, etc, etc, etc. As for the start up carb, I would stick with what's on there. Chances are it's set up for the L20. Who knows what head work, or cam that's on there. KamakSun, bring the #1 piston to TDC and see if the top of the piston is flat top, or dished. that will start to tell the sorry of what's inside. Also find some one with a borescope so you can check those cylinder walls. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 BTW, I will walk him through posting picts tonight so you guys can get a look. It's a really nice project. 1 Quote Link to comment
KamakSun Posted August 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 Hi Stoffregen, I'm still trying to piece the history together. It looks like it was SVRA vintage raced. Here is the link to the bring a trailer listing. http://bringatrailer.com/2016/07/28/ex-rally-road-race-project-1969-datsun-510/ The car was last run in Denver in 89. The owner told me that the car sat because he wanted his wife to learn how to autocross with it but she never did. For the past couple of days, I've been pouring Marvel Mystery Oil in the plug openings and spinning the motor by hand. Changed the oil plugs and wires, the cap and rotor look good. I'll be running new fuel lines straight from a gas can. Any other tips for starting a motor that has sat for 25 years? Quote Link to comment
KamakSun Posted August 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 It was a pleasure meeting Mr Paradime and his fine ride. I'm going to the garage to check the cylinder right now. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 Hey man, I just texted you. You need to get yourself a Photobucket account so you can start posting picts. Before we get much further into this, you also might want to take this conversation to your own build thread at Project Datto. http://community.ratsun.net/forum/6-project-datto/ Quote Link to comment
KamakSun Posted August 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 I am not able to see the top of the cylinder too well be cause there is a healthy amount of marvel mystery on top of it. From what I can make out but don't hold me to it, the piston may be flat. Not sure what that means though. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 Flat top pistons would indicate higher compression, and likely more extensive work done on the motor. It would help if you had a small LED light that you could aim straight down the spark plug hole without illuminating the head. You may need to lower the piston to see more of it. You can also take a piece of coat hanger and carefully feel the top of the piston. Quote Link to comment
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