510 Rear drums too tight

[DatMo]

Problem: rear drum won't slide over new shoes.
It's on a stock 510 rear brake setup. A 72 at that.
So I've never had issues with brakes before and I'm almost positive I've done everything necessary for my drums to slip on to my brake shoes but nope!

I've made sure the ebrake isn't pulled and I've loosened the adjuster all the way and I've also bled the nipple until no more further liquid is inside. My pads are from oreileys.
I'm not sure what to do at this point because I can't clear with the new pads. I've centered them, even hammered at them with a mallet.

Please help!

[Cheetahking]

I've heard of people having issues with aftermarket shoes being too big....

[datzenmike]

Loosen the E brake adjuster also.

[DatMo]

Loosen the E brake adjuster also.

I'm not quite sure how to? Do you mind showing me?

I thought it was just the top adjuster as well. If I could loosen the brake one too, it would surely work!

If you're speaking of making sure the ebrake isn't pulled, it's already done.

[DatMo]

I've heard of people having issues with aftermarket shoes being too big....

i hope that's not the case or I'll have to get the nos ones

[shacks510]

Did you loosen the shoe adjuster at the top of the backing plate? The thing with the square boss. Turn it to the left all the way (loosens shoes) They like to seize, so don't strip It.

[DatMo]

Did you loosen the shoe adjuster at the top of the backing plate? The thing with the square boss. Turn it to the left all the way (loosens shoes) They like to seize, so don't strip It.

Yes I did. Completely

[MikeRL411]

Did you turn the brake drums to eliminate the ridge at the edge of the drum!  It will clamp on the OD of the new brake shoe outside diameter and prevent the new shoes from properly adhering to the drum no matter how often you adjust the rear brake adjust square adjust stud. By the way, use a 1/4 inch socket set.  Use an 1/4 inch allen wrench.  Put the 1/4 inch allen wrench driver into the 1/4 inch "female" socket.  Now, put the left over 1/4 inch driver end over the "male" adjuster square stud and stop stripping the really good rear brake adjusterment factory set up!  It works!!!!!!!!!!!!!  For whatever you are  assuming is a supreme being, do NOT attempt to do the final adjust with a ViceGrip!  You will only result in a "Parts Wanted" posting.

[Cheetahking]

I'm not quite sure how to? Do you mind showing me?

I thought it was just the top adjuster as well. If I could loosen the brake one too, it would surely work!

If you're speaking of making sure the ebrake isn't pulled, it's already done.

If you follow the cable for the e brake, there is a an adjuster where the two cables from the rear drums attach to the cable coming for the front of the car.  There is a threaded element attached to the cable, and the metal piece threads on that.  Loosen the jam nut, and you can create more slack in the cable.  Heed the advice about the 1/4" square drive socket.  

Makes this an easy job.  I got one from McMaster Carr - They used to stock a 4pt - but this would work as well....

[datzenmike]

Once the damage is done you can also weld a 12mm nut on the end.

[Cheetahking]

[banzai510(hainz)]

usually you got to center the shoes by wacking it with a hammer to center them then retry to put the drum back on.

 

back the top tensioner/adjuster all the way out and it rotates on a 90degress click. so make sure its not on a high spot.

 

if drums made in China get them turned!!!!!!!!!!!!!I have had bad luck with chinese drums on Jeep Cherokees . All warped from the factory

[DatMo]

If you follow the cable for the e brake, there is a an adjuster where the two cables from the rear drums attach to the cable coming for the front of the car. There is a threaded element attached to the cable, and the metal piece threads on that. Loosen the jam nut, and you can create more slack in the cable. Heed the advice about the 1/4" square drive socket.

Makes this an easy job. I got one from McMaster Carr - They used to stock a 4pt - but this would work as well....

I think this would be my best option and I'm already familiar with the 1/4th ending and i don't use vice grips or strip it. I'll check this out and see if it helps. If it does loosen up a bit, I'll surely be able to get em on.

[Doctor510]

Are you sue that the little "pistons" in the adjuster are installed correctly?  You should see the ends meet when the adjuster screw is backed out all the way (view from the shoe side of the backing plate)   If not remove the shoes and spin them 180*

[DatMo]

Are you sue that the little "pistons" in the adjuster are installed correctly? You should see the ends meet when the adjuster screw is backed out all the way (view from the shoe side of the backing plate) If not remove the shoes and spin them 180*

yes they're properly shut. If Wednesday doesn't workout with the e-brake, ill be sure to give pictures to justify. I hope it works I need this done!

[flatcat19]

Are these new drums you're installing or the old ones?

 

 

If old, did you have them machined?

[DatMo]

Are these new drums you're installing or the old ones?

 

 

If old, did you have them machined?

they're old drums and no but I considered that

[Roadster-ka]

Get different brake shoes or grind down the shoe where it contacts the wheel cylinder.

[DatMo]

Get different brake shoes or grind down the shoe where it contacts the wheel cylinder.

That's my last resort

[flatcat19]

they're old drums and no but I considered that

Did you turn the brake drums to eliminate the ridge at the edge of the drum! It will clamp on the OD of the new brake shoe outside diameter and prevent the new shoes from properly adhering to the drum no matter how often you adjust the rear brake adjust square adjust stud. By the way, use a 1/4 inch socket set. Use an 1/4 inch allen wrench. Put the 1/4 inch allen wrench driver into the 1/4 inch "female" socket. Now, put the left over 1/4 inch driver end over the "male" adjuster square stud and stop stripping the really good rear brake adjusterment factory set up! It works!!!!!!!!!!!!! For whatever you are assuming is a supreme being, do NOT attempt to do the final adjust with a ViceGrip! You will only result in a "Parts Wanted" posting.

Sounds like you had a derpy moment.

 

 

Feel the edge of the drum...is there a lip there?

 

You could knock that ledge off with a file. Bit you should probably have them machined regardless.

 

Do nothing else until this is covered and out of the way.

[Sabimashita]

I am having the same problem with my 610. Got new shoes from O'Reilly and had the drums machined. I turned the adjuster in centered everything, still too tight. It looks like the shoes can be put on two different ways also making them hit in slightly different places. I checked my books and pics online for proper orientation. So now I will try grinding a bit of metal off where shoe contacts the wheel cylinder as suggested. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[datzenmike]

There are leading and trailing shoes but no mater how you pair them up they should fit. The set of shoes that I got had 'leading' stenciled on two of the shoes. These go to the front. It is important to get the leading and trailing shoes correct for proper braking. Ever notice that cars are harder to stop when backing up? or should be. This is because the shoes are on correctly.

 

Likely a mm to inches problem with the lining material where ever these are rebuilt. The lip should still fit over the new shoes as this was the original size of the drum. A used drum will be even larger diameter... inside the lip. I just hand filed the lips on my 710. I would only have then ground down if they are out of round. Better to grind the contact points down slightly to get them on and save drum material.

[DatMo]

Sounds like you had a derpy moment.

 

 

Feel the edge of the drum...is there a lip there?

 

You could knock that ledge off with a file. Bit you should probably have them machined regardless.

 

Do nothing else until this is covered and out of the way.

I'll do exactly this tomorrow morning. I'll get the brakes shaved by oreileys and get my new tires for my riverges and keep everyone updated. I'm also going to loosen the ebrake just incase it is a potential help.

[datzenmike]

Make the shoes fit, not the drum. This is like grinding rubber off the tires to lower a car. You can't turn them down over a certain amount anyway, so save as much drum material as you can. Thicker drums will absorb more heat from a panic stop. You will be replacing the drums sooner if you do this.

[Dolomite]

Mike is correct. I recently had the same issue, all the clearance needed was found in the parking brake linkage...check that before anything else. Make sure the adjusters are in between a ridge, not on one.