L20B oiling? Issue

[pwrcat4000]

I continue to have problems with my number 3 intake rocker it continues to come off for some unknown reason it usually happens with the first start of the day. I try to let it warm up slowly and most of the time it doesn't come off. Yesterday on a cold start it came off. I removed the valve cover,as I always do, to reset it and noticed that not only the number 3 intake rocker was off but also the number 4 intake rocker was out of the tapit. Could it be that I have a week oil pump and that is the problem with number 3 and number 4. I noticed the idiot light is on for about 3 seconds after start even when I know the oil is full. I am runbing 10w30 if that matters (I think it calls for sae 30)

What do you think gentlemen. New oil pump or is that pointless

If I have to pull the topend to rebuild the head I would be more likely to drop a gm v6 in it out of a 83 s10 I have a wrecked one without the efi avaliable.

[wayno]

My L20b did that a few times after it sat a long time, it would happen on start up, it quit doing it after I put good gas in the tank, I also had a start and idle issue at the same time, it would not idle properly, and if it died after warmed up it would not start till it cooled down, once good fuel was in the system it ran a lot better.

That engine was a bitch to start if it sat for more than a week, sometimes it would take over a minute of pumping and turning over before it would even try to hit.

I converted over to dual SUs recently, no more starting issues, and I have not had any issues with the rocker arms coming off in a very long time, but I drive it quite a bit now, back then it would sit for months sometimes.

[scooter]

Spray paint the wear pad face on the rocker and install and turn it over, then remove, take a pic, also take a pic of your "mouse trap springs" and the rocker installed.. And finally a pic of the lash pad tip with the rocker installed. I can't see how one of these can jump out unless a valve sticks or very loose lash or something.

[datzenmike]

Are the valves sinking? Take a look at all the pivot posts under the rocker ends. Is the #3 and #4 posts lower than the rest?

[pwrcat4000]

I will try to look at it later this week too busy right now. Sucks using my daily driver suv instead of a truck. I think the valve guide might be a little tweeked on number 3 that would explain why it comes off when cold. But when I saw the number 4 in take off I started thinking. I also have some valve train noise from the back of the engine. Just For Kix poured oil on number 3 and number four when I put it back together no noise at all. I always check the lash before I put it back together eight on the intakes and 10 on the exhaust in thousandths. It usually only happens when I'm in a hurry lol I try to baby the start I even crank the motor with the key off since I have a momentary switch thinking it might help Prime the system is there a direction for the tappets if there is I can't see but I'm pretty damn old. I will put it back when I check the height of the studs or whatever those things are called I can't see the post right now cause I'm doing this on my phone

[scooter]

I'm gonna say mikes right on this one, is there any threads left?

[datzenmike]

Early L series use bronze valve seats but with the advent of unleaded gas all new engines had to have hardened seats because the lead in the gas lubricated the valve faces.

[G-Duax]

Like Mike, sticking valves would be my first choice.

Seen it happen before.

Wait until it's cold again, pop the cam cover, and slowly turn the engine over while watching the valves.

I bet anything you will see some of them hang, and not follow the cam lobe.

Probably 40 years of carbon and/or baked oil deposits on valve stems, and ID of guides.

Will need to be cleaned, and fresh valve stem seals installed.

 

Either that, or try some moose milk (mr. fix-it in a can). AKA 'motor flush' of some sort, or a high concentration of diesel fuel.

Run up to temp a few times, drain out, and use a good high detergent oil.

Which brings up the question, what oil have you been using.

Cheap oils have a lot more low grade crap in them, that will lead to problems like this.

[banzai510(hainz)]

do .006 in and .008 cold and run that

[pwrcat4000]

Nobody on the forum happens to have a remanufactured head or anything laying around do they machine shop in my local area is pretty ridiculous.

[datzenmike]

You will have to ask in the classifieds.... http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/4-engine/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc

[racerx]

Not sure if this was ask but what is your compression on that cylinder? Also are you able to adjust that valve? When my number 7, intake valve, sunk i could not adjust anymore. If u do get another head make sure the seat has hardened steel

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dude this is a Ez

just adjust the lash to ..006 and .008

 

I run all types of oil. 10-30 40 50  15-40 and if warm area 30 straight(thats is you can still find it)

 

buy a spare head on the side  As for the valve seat being hard. If its a FREE head who cares untill the valves sink again(CANT ADJUST THE VALVE LASH ANYMORE)

[scooter]

if you have another set of wheels just send the head out to get rebuilt

[pwrcat4000]

I now have way bigger problems
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/70163-melted-spark-plugs/

[racerx]

Crap..but you know what they say,  "when things seem like they are falling apart, they are actually coming together".