Jump to content

Thinking of buying this '85 720 2wd


brasssmunkye

Recommended Posts

So i am in need of a truck, i live in the woods, and i need something to be able to haul things in and out of my property, so i've been looking around for an inexpensive truck. I'm no mechanic, but i know a little bit about vehicles, and i try to do most work myself with the help of resources like this forum, etc. I normally work in IT, and i have am very "mechanically inclined" so i tend to have few problems diagnosing and repairing issues, but i'm not very well versed in everything vehicle related. So, all i've wanted is a small 2wd nissan or toyota, and i've come across this '85 720 that looks nice for $1200. It has 156k miles on it, seems to run great, although i have only been able to drive it around the sellers property thus far.  will be driving it further/faster before i buy, but we need to work out getting a day-pass for registration for that to be okay (also going to have the exhaust looked at/repaired and a smog check done during that day, before throwing all the money down). I noticed there was a connection on a plug jumped, and the corresponding PCB unplugged next to it, which i have come to find is the fuel pump relay (also how i found this forum), i will try to re-solder the points for the coil myself, and if that doesn't work, i will look into either going to pick-n-pull, or buying a new relay (~$50 at rockauto and also locally at oreilleys). I also found that there is an exhaust leak, where the exhaust pipe meets the muffler, not sure if the local shop would just re-weld it, or throw a new one on there, they are super reasonably priced either way though. Anyways, i was just wondering if people here would recommend this buy, or have any ideas about specific things to check out. Thank you so much for reading through my post and hopefully giving me some useful information!

 

Oh, and here's the picture album, some more info may be there in the captions

http://imgur.com/a/LOfy5

 

EDIT: here's the album, all embedded.

 

T3BtyAx.jpg

body looks pretty damn good, it's been mostly sitting for a couple years.

 

NZcSUz9.jpg

Leak connecting to muffler.

 

gg2647p.jpg

Engine bay looks pretty clean to me.

 

cB7M4Yo.jpg

Driver side of engine

 

xBAK0jI.jpg

Driver side of engine 2, i see some residue where the exhaust header is connected, is this okay/normal?

 

0lNDDmF.jpg

Passenger side of engine, carb wiring and all that.

 

HSIPkvk.jpg

Undercarriage front passenger side, there's residue from an old leak, unsure what it is exactly, but it's all old.

 

7SR5MSZ.jpg

Undercarriage front driver side, you can see the residue from the old leak on that cover in the middle, but nothing on this side.
 

FRvmgvQ.jpg

Tranny, looks a little wet from some kind of old leak, should i be worried?

 

HGk82sy.jpg

Tranny shot 2 / cat, and a little rust on the exhaust pipe, doesn't look too bad to me, but you guys are the experts

 

B3zkJtL.jpg

More exhaust pipe to show the rust

 

RIBptnZ.jpg

exposed wiring under passenger side dash, fuel pump relay hanging, and jumped.

 

807YcLZ.jpg

Fuel pump relay, will try to solder the lead pins for the coil

 

qESVq7T.jpg

connector breaking under dash, looks like sun damage, the plug is deteriorating, but the connections seem fine.

 

mFgsbLZ.jpg

some connectors with nothing attached, are these okay?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • Replies 22
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd do a dmv check on the back reg, it can add up quickly, make seller pay for smog. All in all, it looks pretty good. Make sure to run it through all gears, get it up to operating temp and lit it sit and idle for a while to make sure cooling system is adequate...all the regular shit when buying older and used.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

it's been non-opped, so there shouldn't be back reg payments, and the seller is open to working with us on the price if things are costly.

 

i did let it idle for a long time, and it was up to operating temperature, cooling was perfectly good for that, but i didn't really get to run it hard or anything, just around the property in first gear, and letting it idle for a while / me revving it for a while to make sure it seemed okay. the heater inside worked well, which at least tells me the cooling is working to some extent.

 

thank you for your input, just been trying to make sure we get something that doesn't have major flaws or anything.

 

i also forgot to mention that the car has only had two owners, the lady selling it, and her son before her. her son bought it brand new off the lot, he used it for a while mostly commuting to school then to work, then when he got a new car, he sold/gave it to his mother, who just used it for taking out the trash and occasional hauling runs. so i know the truck hasn't been abused or anything, but it is old.

 

edit:

Also talked to the muffler shop, they can throw a new one on there for $100, or maybe just re-weld the original one, but they have to look at it and see, so that's good, not expensive.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

The fuel pump relay is not visible and located above the passenger side kick panel beside the glove box.  You probably mean the automatic choke relay. It's common to jumper the choke to the idle cut solenoid... Red to Blue wire?

 

PCP? Maybe PCV positive crankcase ventilation? The valve cover hose connects to the air filter housing. The block vent hose to the PCV valve located at the base of the carb, on the intake, on the valve cover side.

 

You don't need a fuel pump relay just wire it on with the ignition. That is unless you plan an accident where you are knocked out and trapped in the wreck and there is a fire. The relay basically shuts off shortly after the engine stops if the key is left on.

 

Pictures help...

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Make sure it passes smog before you buy

 

we are definitely doing that, gonna get a day-pass for reg hopefully to facilitate a smogging before buying, no smog no buy

 

The fuel pump relay is not visible and located above the passenger side kick panel beside the glove box.  You probably mean the automatic choke relay. It's common to jumper the choke to the idle cut solenoid... Red to Blue wire?

 

PCP? Maybe PCV positive crankcase ventilation? The valve cover hose connects to the air filter housing. The block vent hose to the PCV valve located at the base of the carb, on the intake, on the valve cover side.

 

You don't need a fuel pump relay just wire it on with the ignition. That is unless you plan an accident where you are knocked out and trapped in the wreck and there is a fire. The relay basically shuts off shortly after the engine stops if the key is left on.

 

Pictures help...

 

i'm pretty certain it's the fuel pump relay, before i looked into what it was, i noticed the fuel pump stayed on as soon as the key was in the on position, then when i got home, i looked it up based on the pictures (which is actually how i found this forum haha) it's hanging loose, which is why it was visible, the kick panel is missing under the dash too.

there are pictures, in the imgur link, it's an album, with comments on the pictures with some more information. thanks so much!

 

EDIT: embedded all the pictures into the first post.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

807YcLZ.jpg

 

This is fine and will work fine for now. The fuel pump relay can be a problem but there are multiple inputs needed fr it to work properly too. I would leave it for nor.

 

 

0lNDDmF.jpg

 

This is the only think I don't like. It has the electronic feedback carburetor on it. It's very complicated and needs multiple inputs including an O2 sender in the exhaust to run right. If running well X fingers and get it!.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Good stuff!  Just wanted to say hi.  I have an '85 cali truck that I fixed up to the point where it'll pass smog, so if you have questions, lemme know.

 

I think one fundamental thing to check is whether it idles at the right RPM.  If not, that's often indicative of vacuum leaks, and hunting down vacuum leaks is a process.  It's doable, but it'll take you some time.  The smog place isn't supposed to pass a vehicle that isn't idling in the right RPM range, but sometimes they'll let it slide, depending.

 

My truck came with oil leaks.  I replaced the valve cover gasket and the oil pressure sensor (positioned aft of the oil filter, below the intake manifold) and that fixed it up, near as I can tell.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

If there's a vacuum leak it will barely idle at all. Never seen a vacuum leak make an engine idle higher. A vacuum leak will lean out the idle mixture causing a poorer idle quality. If your idle speeds up with a vacuum leak then you must be running too rich or the choke is still on..

 

Yes, the correct idle is very important as too high a throttle opening can cause vacuum advance and some mechanical advance to come in. The last thing you want is an advanced ignition timing at idle, it's terrible for emissions.

 

Run the engine as hot as possible when testing. Maybe change to a 190F thermostat for the test.

Make sure the catalytic converter is good and working

Fresh oil change helps

  • Like 1
Link to comment

So i am in need of a truck, i live in the woods, and i need something to be able to haul things in and out of my property, so i've been looking around for an inexpensive truck. I'm no mechanic, but i know a little bit about vehicles, and i try to do most work myself with the help of resources like this forum, etc. I normally work in IT, and i have am very "mechanically inclined" so i tend to have few problems diagnosing and repairing issues, but i'm not very well versed in everything vehicle related. So, all i've wanted is a small 2wd nissan or toyota, and i've come across this '85 720 that looks nice for $1200. It has 156k miles on it, seems to run great, although i have only been able to drive it around the sellers property thus far.  will be driving it further/faster before i buy, but we need to work out getting a day-pass for registration for that to be okay (also going to have the exhaust looked at/repaired and a smog check done during that day, before throwing all the money down). I noticed there was a connection on a plug jumped, and the corresponding PCB unplugged next to it, which i have come to find is the fuel pump relay (also how i found this forum), i will try to re-solder the points for the coil myself, and if that doesn't work, i will look into either going to pick-n-pull, or buying a new relay (~$50 at rockauto and also locally at oreilleys). I also found that there is an exhaust leak, where the exhaust pipe meets the muffler, not sure if the local shop would just re-weld it, or throw a new one on there, they are super reasonably priced either way though. Anyways, i was just wondering if people here would recommend this buy, or have any ideas about specific things to check out. Thank you so much for reading through my post and hopefully giving me some useful information!

 

Oh, and here's the picture album, some more info may be there in the captions

http://imgur.com/a/LOfy5

 

EDIT: here's the album, all embedded.

 

T3BtyAx.jpg

body looks pretty damn good, it's been mostly sitting for a couple years.

 

NZcSUz9.jpg

Leak connecting to muffler.

 

gg2647p.jpg

Engine bay looks pretty clean to me.

 

cB7M4Yo.jpg

Driver side of engine

 

xBAK0jI.jpg

Driver side of engine 2, i see some residue where the exhaust header is connected, is this okay/normal?

 

0lNDDmF.jpg

Passenger side of engine, carb wiring and all that.

 

HSIPkvk.jpg

Undercarriage front passenger side, there's residue from an old leak, unsure what it is exactly, but it's all old.

 

7SR5MSZ.jpg

Undercarriage front driver side, you can see the residue from the old leak on that cover in the middle, but nothing on this side.

 

FRvmgvQ.jpg

Tranny, looks a little wet from some kind of old leak, should i be worried?

 

HGk82sy.jpg

Tranny shot 2 / cat, and a little rust on the exhaust pipe, doesn't look too bad to me, but you guys are the experts

 

B3zkJtL.jpg

More exhaust pipe to show the rust

 

RIBptnZ.jpg

exposed wiring under passenger side dash, fuel pump relay hanging, and jumped.

 

807YcLZ.jpg

Fuel pump relay, will try to solder the lead pins for the coil

 

qESVq7T.jpg

connector breaking under dash, looks like sun damage, the plug is deteriorating, but the connections seem fine.

 

mFgsbLZ.jpg

some connectors with nothing attached, are these okay?

Does truck have AC?

 

The rectangular black box is the fuel pump relay and the plug that is jumped plugs into that.

Link to comment

dm: for the feedback trucks, if there's a vacuum leak, they'll add fuel to get the AFR right.  So now you're idling with extra air and extra fuel == higher idle.

 

Always thought the feedback was open loop at idle. Not the case. Good to know.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

sorry i haven't been back here in a couple days, been dealing with some other vehicle-hell, borrowed neighbors 02 ford escape v6 for a couple days while parts for my toyota paseo came in, and the bastard broke down on me in town, needed a new starter, alternator, and battery, i guess those POS vehicles tend to take the alternator/battery out when the starter solenoid goes out.. and getting to the starter, and the alternator was an absolute nightmare... anyways, it's all over now, and i'm finally back home.

 

so, i don't know if the truck has A/C TBH, i was so much more concerned with the condition of the engine and drivetrain, that i didn't even bother to check.

 

the idle of the truck is low and constant, sounded a little rough at first with old gas in it, but once that ran through, it had a nice idle every time i started it up.

 

i'll try to get a video of it running next time i take a look at it, but it sounds like i should probably get it if it passes smog, especially when comparing this, with the price to other trucks in northern california.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

so, i ended up buying the truck today, took it on the highway for a minute, and it runs great, all gears feel fine, temperature stays where it's supposed to be, seems like it is great.

i will probably end up posting here every once in a while with questions about maintenance and repairs, thank you to everybody here who has helped answer my questions!

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I‘d buy it. But I am me. A grand seems more like it.

 

got it for $1200, and she's working with us on payments for half of it... in my area, this seems like by far the best deal i can find on a decent truck. i've only found a couple others that look possibly comparable just from their listings online, but they are usually 4+ hours away, and i doubt they would turn out to be single-owner vehicles, with a service record since original purchase, i am happy with the deal personally :) especially with such low miles!

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.