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71 Datsun b110 build


Robin1200

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Hey guys, I just bought myself a 71 Datsun b110 coupe or also know as sunny or 1200. It's got no engine and tranny, it's a standard car but the brake and clutch pedals are gone. I'm trying to decide what to power this car with. I love v8s I have a 240z v8 but I heard it's a lot of modifications to fit a v8 in the 1200. I'm leaning more towards the sr20det. I'm getting a little overwhelmed with where to start or how to go about this so if anyone has some input or ideas, feel free to shoot them along. Thanks

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A V8 would ruin such a rare car. Meh, everyone throws the SR name around. So over done. L20B would be the easiest, very simple and good power for a 1,900 lb car.  Either KA with EFI or carb for more power. Lots around and parts for them. Impress me with a VG30. Modified 280zx distributor and R1 carbs. That would be worth crossing the street to look at.

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In the end its up to you, your car, your money, your blood sweat and tears but not a v-8, you will spend tons of money on fabrication and set-up. Search forum on this site for V-8 on Datsun 510 and u will get a good idea of the work that needs to be done. I would go w with mike says by putting L series engine.

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In the end its up to you, your car, your money, your blood sweat and tears but not a v-8, you will spend tons of money on fabrication and set-up. Search forum on this site for V-8 on Datsun 510 and u will get a good idea of the work that needs to be done. I would go w with mike says by putting L series engine.

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If I were you I would suggest that you do a Rotary swap like a 13b, would make a ton of power and won't ruin the handling characteristics of the car, as well as rumors that there was a Datsun designed Rotary planned for the Sunny in Japan before Nissan scrapped the project in light of some Mazda copyrights. Another motor I think is very interesting for the 1200 would be the Hayabusa swap, it seems to fit the engine bay perfectly, is relatively straightforward, check Youtube for tips. Also due to the low weight of the 1200, very little torque is needed to get the car moving, with some slide venturi quad ITB's the thing would scream and rev to 10,000.

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First on the V8 front; if you use a Ford 5.0 motor with aluminum heads manifold etc that motor is within 20lbs of a SR20DET and the Ford gearbox is 10lbs lighter. From a weight stand point it's a wash.

 

I agree the SR20 is kind of like a SBC in a hot rod.

 

Make sure you check out Datsun1200.com tech section as that will give you a good idea of all the options.

 

You already have a V8 Datsun so I'd try an opposite approach; nimble fun etc.

 

The easiest will be to fit a A15 engine, it's the big block of the stock 1200 motors and easy to find. In street trim 100hp is a very attainable. Keep in mind the car is light, if you're careful you can get the weight down to 1480 to 1520lbs. Power to weight ratio about the same as newer hot hatches. The A15 in my race car puts out 105-110hp at the wheels and due to a way overbuilt roll cage is at 1631lbs the motor revs to 8200 RPMs, does 110 mph (run out of track) and likely do 115 on a logger straight. 1/4 mile wise I'd expect it to be around a high 14 to low 15 which is rather slow but 6 seconds faster than stock. Besides vintage racing I run my car at some track days and in the intermediate group ( lacks the oomph for the fast group) I tend to be one of the faster cars. Note some of that is my driving (I also Instruct) versus less experienced drivers but it still highlights a car that corners well.

 

The next easiest is Datsun L series; in Japan they had a PB110 Sunny which came with an L14, it's a near bolt in. L16, L18 L20 would be fine. The L series will have better midrange with out adding a lot of extra weight.

 

A rotary is a good balance between extra weight and more power.

 

A turbo motor can be a good upgrade one of the Australian racers is getting 200WHP from his turbo A12 motor and his car doesn't weigh anymore than mine.

 

Here is what I always tell people new to 1200s as to what to do: install the larger A14 or A15, clean up the ports, install a weber 32/36 with header, use a moderate cam 275 duration with .390-410 lift. 7/8 front bar with 5/8th rear bar, Koni dampers, 210 or 310 calipers and lower the car 1.5 to 2 inches. That will make for a fun little car with not a ton of cash in it.

 

Tom

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My A15 will rev to 8600; I try to keep it down to around 8000. I was regularly revving the the A12 to 8600 and that wears them out really fast. The rings lasted 10 weekends, it was really more like 9 as the motor only had 80 psi across the board and was dropping 100 RPMs every lap for the last 4 laps of the 10th weekend.

 

I built the A15 with an eye on having a motor with more mid-range, the cam grind is more rally / hot street cam, the car will pull away at 4000 RPMs without a lot of drama.

 

By contrast the A12 had a cam with a lot of overlap and just to get it rolling out of the pits was 4500 minimum and lots of clutch or having to spin the rear wheels, it would rev to 9000 RPMs and was even capable of 9100. I never got to dyno the final version of the A12 it may have been around 83-85whp. Keep in mind a stock A12 is about 40 at the wheels and a full RunOffs winning motor is 100 but those 6 hour motors.

 

For a street car with a built to realistically version of streetable engine I'd expect an A12 to be putting out 70 at the wheels and an A14 or A15 around 85-90. As for revvy given they'll all rev like mad any A Series will do the trick.

 

The biggest issue is going to be the gearbox, as you tune the motor harder that gap between 2nd & 3rd gear becomes ever more apparent. A low rear gear and overdrive 5 speed seems to be the best of both worlds and bridges some of the gap.

 

Tom

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