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Wheel bearing HELP! and part number?


macgyver

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I just got my 510 back on the road and now my outer front wheel bearing dicinagrated leaving my work place parking lot!!! I got her home but it's not rt.

 

The PO said it has 240sx struts welded on 280z (doesn't say Zx) spindles. I brought 280z bearing/race at the local parts store.

 

So I Now preceded to install in the parking lot at my job. Take everything apart and the new race is like 1/8" too small. After it cleared the hub lip, I was able to spin the race freely with my fingers with some wiggle room. Also there was no washer behind the nut and the lock "piece that fits ove the nut" doesn't come out far enough for the cotter pin to work as it should. I believe there should be a washer between the nut and bearing?

 

Can anyone tell me what bearing and race I need for the 280z hub? (If that is what I have). I ask the parts store for the Zx part number and he said it was the same (listed in the computer).

Want to get back on the road ASAP!!! ;).

Thanks.

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I work at oreilly auto. Currently there in fact (slacker...). I just checked my computer.

 

240z, 260z, 280z, 280zx, 300zx (z31), and Infiniti m30 all show they use the same 2 bearings.

 

A2 outer

A6 inner.

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Thank you... Yes I got the a2 bearing and race and its loose inside the hub! :(. I'm thinking maybe it's a different hub? Not sure. :(

 

 

I work at oreilly auto. Currently there in fact (slacker...). I just checked my computer.

 

240z, 260z, 280z, 280zx, 300zx (z31), and Infiniti m30 all show they use the same 2 bearings.

 

A2 outer

A6 inner.

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Did you get the inner brg race off the spindle? If you cannot get the washer, nut and cotter pin together, the inner bearing may not be fitted right, You did remove the old bearing race from the hub and fit a new one, RIGHT!

Just did the outer to get her home...

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I just got my 510 back on the road and now my outer front wheel bearing dicinagrated leaving my work place parking lot!!! I got her home but it's not rt.

 

The PO said it has 240sx struts welded on 280z (doesn't say Zx) spindles. I brought 280z bearing/race at the local parts store.

 

So I Now preceded to install in the parking lot at my job. Take everything apart and the new race is like 1/8" too small. After it cleared the hub lip, I was able to spin the race freely with my fingers with some wiggle room. Also there was no washer behind the nut and the lock "piece that fits ove the nut" doesn't come out far enough for the cotter pin to work as it should. I believe there should be a washer between the nut and bearing?

 

Can anyone tell me what bearing and race I need for the 280z hub? (If that is what I have). I ask the parts store for the Zx part number and he said it was the same (listed in the computer).

Want to get back on the road ASAP!!! ;).

Thanks.

 

If the race was too small how the hell did you get the bearing in????????????

 

There should be no 'wiggle room'. The bearings  have to be torqued into place using the large nut and then loosened 60 degrees and the cotter pin installed. If the cotter pin didn't fit ,why were you driving on it? If the spindle if fucked say goodbye to your strut!!!

 

 

 

You have to remove the grease seal on the back of the hub to remove the old inner bearing and knock the old bearing race out. The new bearing race has to be tapped into place and the bearing greased and installed. Last thing is a new grease seal.

 

The front bearing just falls out when removing the hub but the race has to be driven out with a drift from the rear.

 

 

280z struts have the wrong spindle angle. SX strut on a 280z spindle is retarted. It would be easier to just use the sx strut.

 

240/260/280z, 280zx, 300zx, B-210, 610/710, S10/S110/S12, A10,810/Maxima...  ALL* use the same inner and outer bearing

 

inner...... 40210-A0100

outer...... 40215-A0100

 

 

* the PL510 and the 610 to June '73 use smaller spindle and bearings

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My fault..... It's states "The fronts are s13struts welded to a 289z spindle".

 

All I know is in order to get it home, I torque the nut down, (no washer) since I had no washer in the first place, lock ring and cotter pin which really didn't match up since lack the washer just to get home.

I than checked the other side and its the same, no washer!!!! Not sure about how the race fits but the pin and lock ring looks worng, (lack of washer)

 

Now it's time to fix this situation the right way.

 

Just not sure what hubs on the car.

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Should have left the original ones on until it's all figured out.

 

As I stated you don't just 'torque it down'. There is a procedure for setting the pre load. Again how did you get the bearing in if the race didn't fit??????

 

What about the inner bearing????? If it was a z or zx spindle it had to have an inner and outer bearing.

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Hey datzenmike

Not sure if you followed what all happened but I give it a go again..... Sorry for the confusion.....

Just brought the car home about 2 months ago. Been driving her every nice day there is. Had no vibrations or signs of a wheel bearing problem till today....

so while leaving work I felt the car pull hard to the rt, I thought the steering rod snapped or something. I got out to look and saw the dust cap off/missing and all the little pieces of the outer bearing everywhere but in the hub. The hub was really loose since there were no rollers to be found.

 

I jacked her up, and just the inside part of the bearing that rests on the spindle (where the roolers ride on) was stuck on the spindle. The nut cotter pin and lock ring was still there. The outer race was actually missing a nice chunk.

The inner bearing and seal was there and ok. The outer was in pieces,

 

There was no way to get it home, roll it or move it in this condition, that's when I ran and got the bearing/race for a 280z. Part number was the same as a z and Zx part number a2

 

But of course as my luck would have it, when I went to put it on, the outer race had play in it after i pressed it through on the hub. I know these should be a tight fit with no play. And should have a washer, then do the torque precedure.

 

So to get her home I decided to take her slow with the race not being correct and with no washer to correctly have the nut and lock ring and cotter pin do its job. This is when I popped off the other side to inspect and sure enough there was no washer and the cotter pin/lock ring was not rt.

 

I need to fix this The correct way but not sure what hubs are on the car to get the rt parts. The spindle surprising" looks" ok. It Messed up the rotor a bit. And now the car is down again.

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PO probably put it together without that essential washer lock ring and cotter pin.. The nut tightened against the bearing eventually did it in.

Any washer will do but the correct one has a small knob on it that fits a key way cut into the spindle. This prevents the washer spinning with the bearing. Something like this...

 

618-011.1-007.jpg 40264-E4100 Nissan part number.

 

 

 

tn_3291_1.jpg 40265-68200 is the adjuster cap that fits over the nut.

 

Any suitable cotter pin will do.

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Get that other side off and inspected before it might be ruined.

 

The outer race is just a hardened ring that the bearing rolls on. Knock out the old race and try a new one first....and get two bearing sets for a zx. Get those washers too. 

 

Installed it should look like this...

inner side grease seal, inner bearing, race.. HUB... race, outer bearing, washer, nut, nut-cap, cotter pin, grease cover.

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I was able to get thee outer race out yesterday when I was trying to put it together. The new race I put in was loose inside. ....

Thank you for the breakdown. I'll be working on this hopefully tomorrow or Thursday depending on if I can get all the parts ordered this morn.

Still think/know I need a hub though

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The races should be tight, pressed in & out.  Sounds like your right outer race spun, damaging the hub in the process.  A machine shop could turn it and press in a sleeve, but probably not worth the trouble.  You should replace all the front end bearings (with new races) and seals at this point.  Make sure to pack the bearings properly and follow the factory tightening procedure as best as possible.

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