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temp sensor to match stock PL510 temp gauge


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510 engine block temperature senders used a metric thread.  I know because I replaced my SAE thread sender in my RL411 by simply reusing the original SAE threaded collar and just swapping out the sensor.  Your KA24DE just might use the 510 sensor and metric collar!  Give it a try!  The senders tend to be generic.  A brass housing holding graphite granules which compress as the engine coolsnt heats up and squeezes the carbon together.  If the original design worked, why would you change for the next generation engine?  Simplify the stockage of replacement parts and squeeze the sensor supplier since he has been cranking out the capsule since Datsun made Austins!

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I'm reasonably sure grounding the wire that goes to the temp sender will pin the gauge needle on High. I've had my wire burn through on the exhaust manifold and short out, resulting in an alarmingly hot gauge reading.

 

Dime Quarterly, Vol. 3, Issue 4 has an article on calibrating the temp gauge. There may not be any useful information for you but you can take a look:

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1&usp=drive_web&ddrp=1&hl=en&tid=0ByCvxnHNk90SMzIxZWIwYWYtYzljNy00ZGU2LWI3ODctYzRjMmE0MGY3NTA1

 

Len

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I did a check with my s13 sender and 510 cluster. "T" is about 160° "E" is about 170° "M" is about 185° and "P" is about 195°. Mine runs a little more than half way through the "E" which is about 180° right where it should be.

 

Edit: these readings are S13 KA24DE sensor and factory 510 guage.

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Stock gauges are more of just a quick visual check. You get used to where they run normally and anything above that simply means it's running warmer than usual. This is why they never put numbers on them. People would freak out.

 

Is 190F normal!!

Today it went over 180F!!! Is it OK??? Did I hurt anything?

What number should it run at?

Why is mine running 3 degrees cooler than normal? How do I fix this?

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