scooter Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 If im over 70kph for more than 2 minutes my fan kicks off. It runs steady in traffic though Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 Sender may be too close to the inlet to the rad? Best place is on the return hose from the rad. The coolest point. Doesn't matter how hot the rad gets all that matters is the coolant temp going back into the engine. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Sender may be too close to the inlet to the rad? Best place is on the return hose from the rad. The coolest point. Doesn't matter how hot the rad gets all that matters is the coolant temp going back into the engine. Then how do you know if its boiling coming out of the engine. Every engine i know of has the sender in or near the thermostat, or somewhere hot, like in a cylinder head Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 You want to measure the temp near the thermostat. I just had a radiator shop weld a 3/8 NPT bung in a Jeep radiator so I could set up an electric fan, and when I asked him where he would put the bung/sensor, he said "as close to the radiator inlet as possible". Really, it should have gone in the motor, near the t-stat, but there wasn't any room. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Then how do you know if its boiling coming out of the engine. Every engine i know of has the sender in or near the thermostat, or somewhere hot, like in a cylinder head Talking about the fan temp sender. Doesn't matter how hot the water is coming out of the engine, what matters is the temp of the rad water after it's cooled from the rad. If it starts to return too hot the fan kicks on for added cooling. If on the thermostat no doubt the fan will be triggered even though it isn't needed. The rad should be given a chance to cool the water from air pushed through by vehicle speed. Only if the rad is over whelmed from idling at the lights or heavy up hill driving at slow speeds would it be necessary for the fan to come on for extra cooling. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 I considered this myself and I almost had him put two bungs in the radiator, one in the top tank and one in the bottom, but he assured me the best p[lace for the fan switch was in the top tank, near the radiator inlet. Hot water comes out of the engine when the t-stat is opened, the fan kicks on and cools it, it re-enters the engine after it has been cooled. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 But what if it isn't necessary? Fan comes on for nothing. The rad will cool even without the fan on just from forward motion. The fan is an auxiliary back up air flow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Then once it cools, the fan turns off. If your radiator is that efficient, then the fan shouldn't cycle for very long. 2 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Never had a electric fans on all of my oleskool cars, never had issue...its always been the tstat, rad or lack of coolant Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Both work fine, for sure, but the mechanical ones are driven all the time, and then there's the fan noise. You can tell it's an L series blocks away. Electric fans hardly come on at all. 1 Quote Link to comment
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