Addressing the machine shop question(s)...

[720inOlyWa]

Good friends. I am about to take the dismantled Z-24 short block and head to the machine shop. I have been yearning to haul them down to the shop for months. It will be a big day. Having never done this before, I thought I would try out my dumb questions here, to see what kind of advice I can get thereby not looking quite so clueless at the counter of my local speed shop. (A good one, by the way.) You guys haven’t ever let me down before, so here goes...

 

1a.) Is there any reason why I should not plan to reassemble the short block from the crank up, myself? b.) Is there any hocus pocus and/or machine shop tips or steps not covered in the service manual that would cause a newbie to fuck up everything? c.) In other words, is it generally good idea for the machine shop to re-assemble the short block, just to be safe?      

 

(I should explain that I have built VW engines, and a 1949 Plymouth P-18 motor or two, and was part of the crew assembling a Rolls Merlin V-12, but I have no previous Nissan / Datsun deep engine assembly experience. 

 

2.) Should I ask them to surface the block deck too, just to be totally tight and right?

 

3.) Given that they will probably just do a clean up bore, should I expect them to sell me the rings and /or pistons to match as part of the work order?

 

4.) Is it rude to ask for a machining only AND a short block assembled price quote?

 

5.) Anything I should be thinking about that I have not mentioned here?

 

Thanks!

 

Marc

 

 

 

[wayno]

It really depends on how much you want to spend, I have the machine shop I use assemble my LZ23 short blocks because they do everything like the clearances everyday(bearings/rings, ect), so it gives me peace of mind.

I assemble my diesel engines, I have them make sure that everything is standard, the only thing they do is clean the block and insert the sleeves, and measure everything.

I say if they check it and the deck is flat, then it is good.

 

I don't know how to do certain things, so it's just easier to let the professionals do it, but I use a machine shop that has been good to me over the years, so what is another $250.00 for peace of mind, that is cheap. 

[Draker]

I'd only do the deck if it's needed. I wouldn't do it for fun.

 

The build requires some special tools. Nothing too expensive. If you've assembled a motor before... you can do a datsun motor. But you need to follow the fsm word for word if you haven't done it before. There isn't a lot of room for error when assembling. Do you have a good torque wrench?

[Crytek89]

Having just taken my KA24DE to the machine shop, and gotten it back I'll try and answer your questions to the best of my ability.

 

1a.) Is there any reason why I should not plan to reassemble the short block from the crank up, myself?

The machine shop deals with many different variations of engines and may not necessarily measure the clearances on the thrust bearing, piston rings or other essential parts that you want to ensure are double checked prior to re-assembly.

 

 b.) Is there any hocus pocus and/or machine shop tips or steps not covered in the service manual that would cause a newbie to fuck up everything?

Not really, the factory service manual will cover everything (not the Haynes manual) that you're going to need. If the service manual states that the clearances/resurface needs to be in the hundredths thousandths of an inch, ensure that the machine shop has the necessary machines to do so. If you don't specifically express that, they're not going to do it.

 

c.) In other words, is it generally good idea for the machine shop to re-assemble the short block, just to be safe?

Yes and No, personally I reassembled mine myself because I wanted to be sure that everything went together perfect, according to the service manual.

i.e - clearances on the piston rings were within the correct spec.

But at the same time, if their price is reasonable to re-assemble you may want them to do it for the convenience.. you're going to need piston ring compressor, piston ring expander, feeler gauge, engine stand etc.

 

2.) Should I ask them to surface the block deck too, just to be totally tight and right?

I would have them check the block to see if it needs it before going ahead with it.

 

3.) Given that they will probably just do a clean up bore, should I expect them to sell me the rings and /or pistons to match as part of the work order?

That would be a good idea; that way they can bore it to a spec of the new pistons/rings that you're going to be putting into the block and generally the machine shop will receive a discount on pistons/rings and hopefully pass that savings onto you. (Mine did at least).

 

4.) Is it rude to ask for a machining only AND a short block assembled price quote?

The machine shop is working for you, you are the client and I cannot express that enough. Ask them to do the work you want, and only that work.

 

ASK FOR A WRITTEN QUOTE - I got screwed by a machine shop because I didn't ask for one.. a $200 job turned into a $600 one because I didn't ask.

 

5.) Anything I should be thinking about that I have not mentioned here?

Well, since you're going to be at the shop I'd ask them to clean up (jet wash) any additional parts you want, rear main seal housing, front timing cover etc just to make it pretty and easier for you to re-assemble, if you haven't cleaned it already. Should be a flat rate for cleaning not incl. the cost for haz. material disposal. (~$20 at most).

[banzai510(hainz)]

I take my block to Autosport in Seattle and its about 800$ with new pistons/rings bearings. crank stock size polish. This will give you a idea. about the price.

[720inOlyWa]

Thanks guys. VERY helpful!