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New 320 owner, 62?


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#261 wayno

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 09:02 PM

I thought you said you had a 320 carb, 320s didn't have Hatachi carbs, they had Nikki carbs as far as I know.

So you don't have a 320 carb(Nikki) which is what I sent you a message about.

I have 2 of them Pierce MG intake manifolds for the Weber carb, it should bolt right on to your J block, just call Pierce and tell them what you are doing, it's cheaper dealing with them direct although that ebay kit has the choke cable and another part I have never seen before.

http://www.pierceman...tegory_s/85.htm


 

 


#262 difrangia

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:18 AM

I believe that with the Pierce manifold you'll have to block off the carb heat chamber with a steel plate where it mates with the original intake manifold.

 

If you deal with Pierce directly, quiz them about proper jetting for the size engine that you will be using it on. 


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#263 320 Newb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 05:49 AM

Sorry I mis-typed, I've got the stock Nikki carb with 4 screws on the front window. 

 

Wayno, do you think that kit with the MG manifold is the way I should go? Do you know what modifications I'm going to have to make?

 

Difrangia, can you explain more about blocking off  the heat chamber? I think the pierce manifold replaces the original and bolts right to the block. I'm hoping by using that pierce manifold I don't have to make an adapter where the carb bolts on.

 

Great idea to call Pierce directly about the jetting. Is the jetting hard to adjust?

 

 

 

I thought you said you had a 320 carb, 320s didn't have Hatachi carbs, they had Nikki carbs as far as I know.

So you don't have a 320 carb(Nikki) which is what I sent you a message about.

I have 2 of them Pierce MG intake manifolds for the Weber carb, it should bolt right on to your J block, just call Pierce and tell them what you are doing, it's cheaper dealing with them direct although that ebay kit has the choke cable and another part I have never seen before.

http://www.pierceman...tegory_s/85.htm



#264 difrangia

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 07:43 AM

On the Pierce manifold the carb base mount is a couple inches further away from the engine to allow for the choke mechanism. I don't believe that the electric choke or the manual will clear the valve cover if the carb is mounted normally on the stock manifold with the throttle lever toward the cab. That is why I mounted my carb backward on my stock manifold; to get the choke on opposite side and away from engine. Worked out perfect for me as the throttle linkage was a cleaner routing.  Still had to come up with an adapter plate. This is why you have to block off the heat chamber on the exhaust manifold. The carb no longer covers the open cavity as the carb base is couple more inches away from original location. There are photos somewhere in the 320 or 520 forum showing the blockoff plate but i couldn't find them on short notice. Wayno probably has the photo saved that I'm referring to.

 

Intake-Exhaust%20Manifolds%20Fit-Up_zpsb

 

Take note of the carb mount studs. The two inner ones are screwed down into the stock manifold and the two away from the engine are anchored in the adapter plate. The carb base holes closest to engine had to be slotted about 1mm closer together as the manifold stud spacing is closer together. I believe that the adapter plate for the Datsun 1200 and B210 might be usable on the E1 engine. No special stuff is needed with the Pierce manifold except the heat block off plate. Some people use the J13 exhaust manifold as it has twin outlet tube and provides better breathing but you'd have some exhaust plumbing mods, I believe. Don't know if the J13 exhaust manifold has the open-top heat chamber under carb. 

 

Take a look at my Mighty Mouse build thread for pics of the carb mounting. I also went down two sizes on the primary main and idle jet sizes for the 1200cc engine. Love the way it runs.

 

A call to Pierce would be highly recommended. 

 

Steve


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#265 320 Newb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 07:58 AM

Difrangia your work is beautiful.

 

Would this work as a spacer to give me better clearance?

http://www.ebay.com/...hdVSml0&vxp=mtr

 

Sounds like the kit with the Pierce manifold is the way to go for limited mods. I still can't picture the heat block off plate. If someone could post a picture that'd be great. 



#266 difrangia

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 09:10 AM

Look in here:

 

http://community.rat...-swapweber-dfv/


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#267 difrangia

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 09:45 AM

The big rectangular cavity with four studs and where the carb base of the intake manifold mates is the hole that you have to block off if U use the Pierce intake manifold as it has nothing to cover the cavity.

 

Coated_Exhaust_Manifold_2.jpg


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#268 320 Newb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 11:21 AM

That helps a ton, thank you! So I can just use a piece of aluminum stock drilled to accept the studs and cut paper gasket? 



#269 difrangia

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 11:48 AM

Yep, probably have to put some heat on the manifold where the studs are screwed in and sweat em out. chase the threads (should be UNC-SAE) and use shorter studs/bolts  & make a gasket out of exhsust gasket material.

 

There's a pic of a manifold that someone made a plate for in one of the threads that I visit occasionally. Next time I run onto it I'm gonna grab it & store it.


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#270 320 Newb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 12:26 PM

Maybe instead of the kit with the Pierce manifold I should just go with the stock manifold and buy this kit that comes with an adapter it says fits Datsun 521s since I've got a J block motor:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...BBSO34b&vxp=mtr



#271 Charlie69

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 12:30 PM

Difrangia your work is beautiful.

 

Would this work as a spacer to give me better clearance?

http://www.ebay.com/...hdVSml0&vxp=mtr

 

Sounds like the kit with the Pierce manifold is the way to go for limited mods. I still can't picture the heat block off plate. If someone could post a picture that'd be great. 

If you can find that spacer in a phenolic material it is a better heat blocker.  but the plastic ones help with heat transfer to the carb.



#272 difrangia

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 12:50 PM

Maybe instead of the kit with the Pierce manifold I should just go with the stock manifold and buy this kit that comes with an adapter it says fits Datsun 521s since I've got a J block motor:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...BBSO34b&vxp=mtr

 

Datsun 521's have L-Series motors if I'm not mistaken. 

 

Here is the dimensioned drawing for the plate that I used.

 

Note the different between-centers dimensions for the two top and the two bottom pairs of holes.

 

That is why I stated above that I elongated the two inner holes carb base.

 

The two top holes are .332 dia. (clearance for 5/16-18 studs down into the intake manifold) and the two bottom holes are tapped 5/16-18 NC to accept studs for the outer two holes in the carb.

 

The two counterbored holes just up from the bottom two are for allen cap screws in the two outer holes in the intake manifold. 

 

Wit the carb turned around backwards relative to normal, the choke mechanism is away from the motor.

 

32-36_Carb_Adapter_Plate.jpg


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#273 320 Newb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 04:44 PM

Wow that's really impressive, nice work. The 521 adapter kit comes with a couple types of adapters so I'm hoping one is a match to what you've posted above. If not, would you be interested in making and selling one? 

 

Also with the carb mounted backwards is it difficult to get the throttle cable to pull in the right direction?



#274 wayno

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 05:09 PM

If you want easy you should just buy a Weber with an adapter to fit a 520 with the J13 and use your stock intake manifold, otherwise it starts getting complicated.

I bought a Patriot/exhaust header(part#H4800-1 at Autozone) to use with the MG intakes I have for my E1 engines but there might be fuel pump clearance issues, I have not went down that road yet, I also have a J15, but it starts getting complicated, if you just buy a Weber with an adapter for the 520 intake(J13) it's a bolt on, I put one on my 1963 Datsun L320 and it runs great, but I have never had it on the road as it is not legal to drive in the road, I have drove it up and down my dead end street though, never got it out of 3rd gear.

Getting the carb on the intake is a challenge, I had to take the valve cover off to do it, and you must understand that the adapter plate needs to be install properly, you cannot have any leaks, almost every time a person had an issue with a Weber it was leaks around that adapter plate.


 

 


#275 320 Newb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 06:36 PM

Out of curiosity why isn't your 63 L320 legal to drive on the road? 



#276 wayno

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 07:18 PM

Out of curiosity why isn't your 63 L320 legal to drive on the road? 

I had no plans on driving it when I bought it, so I never bought tags for it, it has never been registered for the road while I have owned it.

I was going register it to drive it to Canby, but it doesn't look like that is going to happen now, I hate bodywork and that is where it is at now, maybe Blue Lake.


 

 


#277 difrangia

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 04:05 AM

I might consider making a small run of the adapters, but it would be a while before I can get back in the shop. Lot of outside tasks going on that had to wait all winter.

 

As for the throttle cable, it will pull in any direction if it is the right length to reach where you're going.

 

Just have to figure what cable and housing ends you need and the length of the housing and cable and have a motorcycle shop build one up.

 

Only other thing is to fabricate something to secure the housing end at the carb.


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#278 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 07:03 AM

Though it's not my preferred method, you can get generic cable ends (from companies like Lokar) and screw them onto a tinned cable.

 

You can also get the solder-on ends from motorcycle supply shops. Anyone who supplies British bikes will have those ends.



#279 320 Newb

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 02:38 PM

Is there any trick hooking a new cable up to the stock knob?



#280 320 Newb

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 08:06 AM

Today I'm redoing my clutch hydraulics. I swapped out the piston in my clutch master. The cylinder isn't pitted but the rubbers were bad. I used the stock push rod with a new spring clip. 

 

Also my slave was frozen so I bit the bullet and replaced it with a new $100 one from eBay. 

 

The only hiccup so far is with the return spring on the clutch pedal. It rubs on the bumper that adjusts to bottom out the pedal on the return. Can anyone point out what's wrong or snap a quick picture of what it looks like? In the pics below you can see where the spring rubs on the bumper and bumper bracket. 

 

dyx920.jpg

 

2lwukra.jpg