wayno Posted May 16, 2017 Report Share Posted May 16, 2017 Out of curiosity why isn't your 63 L320 legal to drive on the road? I had no plans on driving it when I bought it, so I never bought tags for it, it has never been registered for the road while I have owned it. I was going register it to drive it to Canby, but it doesn't look like that is going to happen now, I hate bodywork and that is where it is at now, maybe Blue Lake. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted May 16, 2017 Report Share Posted May 16, 2017 I might consider making a small run of the adapters, but it would be a while before I can get back in the shop. Lot of outside tasks going on that had to wait all winter. As for the throttle cable, it will pull in any direction if it is the right length to reach where you're going. Just have to figure what cable and housing ends you need and the length of the housing and cable and have a motorcycle shop build one up. Only other thing is to fabricate something to secure the housing end at the carb. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 16, 2017 Report Share Posted May 16, 2017 Though it's not my preferred method, you can get generic cable ends (from companies like Lokar) and screw them onto a tinned cable. You can also get the solder-on ends from motorcycle supply shops. Anyone who supplies British bikes will have those ends. 2 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted May 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2017 Is there any trick hooking a new cable up to the stock knob? 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted June 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Today I'm redoing my clutch hydraulics. I swapped out the piston in my clutch master. The cylinder isn't pitted but the rubbers were bad. I used the stock push rod with a new spring clip. Also my slave was frozen so I bit the bullet and replaced it with a new $100 one from eBay. The only hiccup so far is with the return spring on the clutch pedal. It rubs on the bumper that adjusts to bottom out the pedal on the return. Can anyone point out what's wrong or snap a quick picture of what it looks like? In the pics below you can see where the spring rubs on the bumper and bumper bracket. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Put a little more bend in the bumper bracket to clear the spring. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 To me your bumper bracket appears to be bent, you can even see where it looks like your rubber bumper used to hit/rest. On mine the bumper is between the pedals and the return spring is on the outside. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Before seeing Wayno's response, I was going to say the same thing - it looks bent and looks like it used to make contact on the right side... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Good point Wayno and even followed up with pictures showing the way it should be. Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted June 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Yup. I bent it straight and it clears just fine. It was strangely easy to bend. The whole clutch hydraulic system is all back together but I'm struggling to get it bled. I can't get the clutch master to push fluid at all. I filled the reservoir and have been pumping like crazy but no dice. Some bubbles came up but the reservoir hasn't dropped at all so I know it's not pushing fluid into the hard line. Any tips or advice? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 I had a similar issue, have you bench bled the master?... I made a small line and looped it back to the master... still nothing.. then I put the pedal to the floor put my finger on the end of the line released the pedal and it drew in fluid, did it I couple more time and now the master was pumping fluid... re bleed the slave and everything was perfect... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Some say don't bleed it back to the master but everything I was working with was brand new so I didn't think it would hurt... if your worried about any containment just pump it into a separate container, and keep the reservoir full... 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted June 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 ^^^^ Bam! Worked like a charm. I drained, cleaned and replaced everything in the clutch system so it was cycling clean fluid back to the reservoir. I've got a hard a hard peddle and it seems to be shifting through all the gears just fine. It's 105 out currently and I'm sweating my brains out. If it still looks good tomorrow I'll take it out for a drive and see what happens. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Nice work ... I wish I got to keep my 320, no title and motor wasn't complete at the time so I had to make a choice.... my 521 ran and drove and i could only keep one because I was moving back to mass.. left the 320 to a friend in socal.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Congrats! I would not have bleed it back to the master. it is not worth a couple dollars of brake fluid to me to chance damaging a hard to find part or parts. Even new hoses stell lines and old stock parts can be contaminated. Just my 2 cents. I hope you can drive it tomorrow and you have a great big smile on your face. Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted June 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2017 It wasn't so much saving a few $$ in brake fluid, I was doing it by myself. Hopefully it'll be OK but I plan on pulling it all out again in a month or when I start paint and body. Next time I'll just bleed it all out the slave bleeder. 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted September 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 Does anyone know if the white bumper/grill was a stock option opposed to the chrome? I've always loved this picture and am thinking about copying the paint scheme and fender mirrors on my 62. The only thing I don't have is that sweet ladder rack. 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted October 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 I'm still working on my rig... My stock 320 carburetor was progressively getting worse so I'm rolling the dice on one of these aftermarket carbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Carburetor-fit-for-Nissan-J15-Cabstar-Datsun-pick-up-Homer-Hommy/222440474786?hash=item33ca7c48a2:g:61oAAOSwYXVYyOaE&vxp=mtr Basically its a $90 gamble which I'm willing to take. It'll come next week and I'll report back on how it fits, how the cables fit, etc. Supposedly it fits the 320 air cleaner. Fingers crossed. I'm starting to strip it down for a little paint and body work but found a lot of the nuts holding on the trim are rusted frozen. I broke one on the front hood trim. Any advice getting the trim off without further breaking anything? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Your going to have to make your own or go to the auto paint store and look at what they have in stock, and I mean AUTO paint store, they have them spinning type racks with stuff like that. I actually made a bunch of stock looking ones myself, as I recall I cut a bunch of metal squares out of the same thickness metal, drilled a hole in the middle like the sample good one I had, threaded it and screwed a small screw in it and the slid it in the trim, installed it and used a new nut to hold it on, I believe I also touched the screw after it was threaded in with the mig welder to make sure it stayed put when tightening the nut on the back side when mounting the trim. The only reason I know about the clips is because on the NL320 only the ends are mounted with a nut on the back side trim, the rest use a spring clip and I cannot make spring clips and I found what I needed at the "auto paint store". That carb looks like it is for the J and L series engines, but it might work on the E series engines also. 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 That carb looks like it is for the J and L series engines I've got a J-15 in my 320 but am running it with all stock 320 stuff: 320 carb, 320 distributor, 320 generator, 320 fuel pump, etc. I wish I could keep my stock 320 carb but parts are impossible to find. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 I've got a J-15 in my 320 but am running it with all stock 320 stuff: 320 carb, 320 distributor, 320 generator, 320 fuel pump, etc. I wish I could keep my stock 320 carb but parts are impossible to find. Well then you should be good. 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 The new J15 carb today and it fits the manifold perfect but the 320 air cleaner housing is maybe 1/4" smaller then the top of the carb. I wonder if it a 520, 521 or 620 air cleaner housing might fit since J15s when in some of those. I also think I might be able to modify my 320 air cleaner to work but I don't want to go bending on my only air cleaner and mess it up. Does anyone have an extra 320, 520, 521, or 620 air cleaner housing they might be willing to part with? 1 Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Do you have the correct insulator? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Inslator-for-Single-Carburetor-A-C-E-H-J-L-R-Engine/222160997909?hash=item33b9d3ce15:g:Dh8AAOxyRNJSktmU If you need an air cleaner let me know https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/d/datsun-520-and-521-parts/6334561672.html Keith 1 Quote Link to comment
320 Newb Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Do you have the correct insulator? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Inslator-for-Single-Carburetor-A-C-E-H-J-L-R-Engine/222160997909?hash=item33b9d3ce15:g:Dh8AAOxyRNJSktmU If you need an air cleaner let me know https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/d/datsun-520-and-521-parts/6334561672.html Keith The insulator on the aftermarket carb is a little bigger than the opening on my stock 320 air cleaner. Sadly the insulator on the aftermarket carb doesn't look like it comes off. Your air cleaner looks beautiful but I think I'll hold off for now. I'm more looking for cheap spare that its not the end of the world if I mess it up trying to make it fit. I got the new carb installed and can get it to fire and run while I feather the gas but can't get the idle adjusted right. Any advice on making carb adjustments? The aftermarket carb looks 95% the same as the 320 carbs. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 I put a Weber on my L320 and it idled like it had a mega cam in it, I turn the idle up, then adjusted the fuel mixture screw till it ran smooth, then adjusted the idle down. The carb was new in a box, but likely was for a larger CC MG, it likely needs to be re-jetted, but it runs better than it did with a rebuilt stock carb, and it certainly starts better. 1 Quote Link to comment
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