Dolomite Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 About a month ago my 510 started occasionally blowing the flasher fuse. The ammeter would start going crazy and end up showing 30+ amp discharge and pop the fuse. The odd thing is I could put a new fuse in and it would be fine for sometimes a block, sometimes a few days worth of driving. I started disconnecting things in the circuit to see if they were the problem. After removing the wire for the fuel sender, it didn't blow for close to a month. Today on my out to datsunville it blew 3 times with seemingly no obvious culprit. On my way home the gauge pegged 30 amps discharge but this time when I went to put a new fuse in, it sparked and immediately blew, I just hauled associated home so it wouldn't die on me because when the flasher fuse blows it quits charging. At home I put in a new fuse and it didn't blow, I took it for a couple miles and it didn't blow but I noticed the right turn signal indicator on the dash glowed faintly. I'm shitty with electrical...any ideas, suggestions? Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Forgot to add the hazards work fine, even when the signal fuse blows. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 The wiring diagram I have for 71 shows the following things all run from that same fuse. Hazards Dome light Engine bay light Clock Cigarette lighter And some kind of elecrical associated with the steering lock? Which of those have you disconnected? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Also turn signal switch, dash turn indiacators, and external lights. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I never thought about the dome light. That circuit also runs all the power to the dash lights, gauges, and highbeams. I've tried the turn signals, dash lights, and gauges. Maybe I'll try, flasher next and then dome light. Now I think of it, I think I remember boatman saying something about the door switches for the dome light. It doesn't work so maybe I'll just delete it. My car doesn't have a cig lighter, engine light, or clock so those are out. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 The wires are still there for all of those accessories. If not terminated correctly in the back, they could be causing your issue. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I know on my truck the flasher fuse would randomly blow out because the reverse light wiring had rubbed bare under the vehicle, and would short out on bumps and such. Reverse and turn signals usually share a fuse. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I'll definitely check that, thanks. Probably going to get a cheap short finder too. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 maybe replace the flasher Cans. or reseat the flasher Can as maybe a corrosion issue clean fuse connection or reseat the plug to the fuse box Quote Link to comment
D52E Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I had a similar issue I know on my truck the flasher fuse would randomly blow out because the reverse light wiring had rubbed bare under the vehicle, and would short out on bumps and such. Reverse and turn signals usually share a fuse. I second this, my switch on the side of my dogleg trans would intermittently short on the trans tunnel. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Door switches only ground to turn the dome light on. If wire rubs bare the dome light comes on, not blow the fuse. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Today I undid everything I fixed in the electrical system 6 months ago. I resoaked the fuse box and connectors in vinegar over night. Pulled the jumper wires that fixed the broken pathways on the instrument board thus disabling the idiot lights, fuel/temp gauge, dash lights. Returned the side markers to being just side markers, I had done the side marker turn signal upgrade. So now it's as I got it 15 years ago with the exception of turn signals working. I started it up and it barely registers a discharge as the signals flash at idle, it used to show a much larger discharge. Headlights on at idle is nearly no discharge, so far a huge improvement. At a couple thousand rpm, there's around 2-5 amp charge. Tomorrow I'm going for a decent drive to see if anything happens. If not, I'll add one circuit back at a time till it acts up again. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I think that is the best way. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I drove it three times today, so far so good. Quote Link to comment
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