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510 getting warm and I do not know why!


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Never loop the heater hoese like that. You are feeding hot water from the head right back into the engine. Normally it is cooled by the heater. You are circulating hot water without the benefit of the rad to cool it. Cut the hose and plug both ends or what ever is needed to shut off coolant flow. This will fix your problem.

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Never loop the heater hoese like that. You are feeding hot water from the head right back into the engine. Normally it is cooled by the heater. You are circulating hot water without the benefit of the rad to cool it. Cut the hose and plug both ends or what ever is needed to shut off coolant flow. This will fix your problem.

I'm going to be doing this next, you're probably right! The hose I have connecting the two is the hottest thing(next to the engine) that I've touched.

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You can get away with it short term if the heater or a hose leaks and more so in the winter, but that's a lot of hot water not being cooled. When the heater is set to cold, the valve closes and there is no flow of water.  

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You can get away with it short term if the heater or a hose leaks and more so in the winter, but that's a lot of hot water not being cooled. When the heater is set to cold, the valve closes and there is no flow of water.

 

I need to address this.....been running it for 13 months now.....haven't had issues with it.....but.....it's one of the things my dad told me to fix before passing.....

 

What can I use? I was thinking of a water shutoff valve....

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When I got mine, there was a valve in the engine bay in one of the heater lines. You can see it in the heater hose.

 

20150627_144454_zps0xudwgoj.jpg

 

I just fixed my factory valve maybe two days ago. All the parts we're in side the valve still, just jammed sideways in there. It was a very simple design and you could probably make the pieces that are in it easily enough. It's just some washers and rubber washers.

 

This page shows some good detail of the valve.

 

http://www.510coop.com/completed/heater.htm

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Thermostat opening when it should or a leak in the system that will not let it pressurize. Rad caps are prone to wear out gaskets. Once warm, tap the thermo and see if she cools down. Rad fan belt loose? Just a couple ideas.

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I used two 5/8" rubber plugs on the "in" and "out" ports that are on the block. the gauge went down a tad but not much. going to try a aftermarket temp gauge.

 

i know the thermostat is opening and closing because the upper hose gets hot and cools down a little before getting hot again. i have a lead on a new heater as well so if i get it i will be throwing that in as well.

 

9110054_rnb_02253_pri_larg.jpg

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I used two 5/8" rubber plugs on the "in" and "out" ports that are on the block. the gauge went down a tad but not much. going to try a aftermarket temp gauge.

 

i know the thermostat is opening and closing because the upper hose gets hot and cools down a little before getting hot again. i have a lead on a new heater as well so if i get it i will be throwing that in as well.

 

9110054_rnb_02253_pri_larg.jpg

Did you bleed the system yet?, step one, bleed the system, that gets the air out, yes it's necessary, do it.

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I never had a heater on mine, 800ish miles on it.....

 

Did the system burp? I make it burp two times then top it off and put the cap back in.

 

Get one of those laser temp gadgets and let her run and take temp readings off of head, block and radiator, compare the thermostat housing reading taken with the laser to what your gauge in dash reads, once your stat housing reaches 180° to 185° check dash gauge to see where the needle is to have as point of reference.

 

Shortcut to all that ^ just get an aftermarket gauge.....get one anyways....

 

 

You can also take readings of different sections of your radiator to see if you have hot spots....

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