racerx Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Is that temp. at park, let's say 15 minutes or driving in hot weather and traffic? Also have you taken out your thermostat and see what degree it supposed to opens up. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 said he put a new temp sender in there so Highly unlikely both bad and read the same. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Sometimes new is not working properly... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Never loop the heater hoese like that. You are feeding hot water from the head right back into the engine. Normally it is cooled by the heater. You are circulating hot water without the benefit of the rad to cool it. Cut the hose and plug both ends or what ever is needed to shut off coolant flow. This will fix your problem. 2 Quote Link to comment
510Goonies Posted June 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 Never loop the heater hoese like that. You are feeding hot water from the head right back into the engine. Normally it is cooled by the heater. You are circulating hot water without the benefit of the rad to cool it. Cut the hose and plug both ends or what ever is needed to shut off coolant flow. This will fix your problem. I'm going to be doing this next, you're probably right! The hose I have connecting the two is the hottest thing(next to the engine) that I've touched. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 You can get away with it short term if the heater or a hose leaks and more so in the winter, but that's a lot of hot water not being cooled. When the heater is set to cold, the valve closes and there is no flow of water. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 You can get away with it short term if the heater or a hose leaks and more so in the winter, but that's a lot of hot water not being cooled. When the heater is set to cold, the valve closes and there is no flow of water. I need to address this.....been running it for 13 months now.....haven't had issues with it.....but.....it's one of the things my dad told me to fix before passing..... What can I use? I was thinking of a water shutoff valve.... Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 90° ball valve, handle on has to turn 90° to shut off and it could be adapted to the stock push pull controls. Getting it mounted and a full of the stock one is something I haven't tried. In theory it should work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 When I got mine, there was a valve in the engine bay in one of the heater lines. You can see it in the heater hose. I just fixed my factory valve maybe two days ago. All the parts we're in side the valve still, just jammed sideways in there. It was a very simple design and you could probably make the pieces that are in it easily enough. It's just some washers and rubber washers. This page shows some good detail of the valve. http://www.510coop.com/completed/heater.htm 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 We use shutoff valves on big rigs to maximise the A.C performance, works fine on trucks so I don't see why not on my datto. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Anything the stops water flow. The heater should be doing this job but if this is not possible cut the hose and insert a piece of broom handle with two hose clamps, anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Anything the stops water flow. The heater should be doing this job but if this is not possible cut the hose and insert a piece of broom handle with two hose clamps, anything. Plug & play :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Thermostat opening when it should or a leak in the system that will not let it pressurize. Rad caps are prone to wear out gaskets. Once warm, tap the thermo and see if she cools down. Rad fan belt loose? Just a couple ideas. 1 Quote Link to comment
510Goonies Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I used two 5/8" rubber plugs on the "in" and "out" ports that are on the block. the gauge went down a tad but not much. going to try a aftermarket temp gauge. i know the thermostat is opening and closing because the upper hose gets hot and cools down a little before getting hot again. i have a lead on a new heater as well so if i get it i will be throwing that in as well. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 why gauge went bad when you pulled the heater core out?????????? your going to need a heater how about invest the money getting another heater core and install. if temp gauge off then the gas gauge would be off most likely also Quote Link to comment
510Goonies Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 i also took my dash out and maybe something happened to the gauge. gas gauge seems to work fine, just on E because it really is on E. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I used two 5/8" rubber plugs on the "in" and "out" ports that are on the block. the gauge went down a tad but not much. going to try a aftermarket temp gauge. i know the thermostat is opening and closing because the upper hose gets hot and cools down a little before getting hot again. i have a lead on a new heater as well so if i get it i will be throwing that in as well. Did you bleed the system yet?, step one, bleed the system, that gets the air out, yes it's necessary, do it. Quote Link to comment
510Goonies Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Did you bleed the system yet?, step one, bleed the system, that gets the air out, yes it's necessary, do it. I have. I've let the car run without a rad cap and i dont have a heater so i can't turn the heat on. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 I never had a heater on mine, 800ish miles on it..... Did the system burp? I make it burp two times then top it off and put the cap back in. Get one of those laser temp gadgets and let her run and take temp readings off of head, block and radiator, compare the thermostat housing reading taken with the laser to what your gauge in dash reads, once your stat housing reaches 180° to 185° check dash gauge to see where the needle is to have as point of reference. Shortcut to all that ^ just get an aftermarket gauge.....get one anyways.... You can also take readings of different sections of your radiator to see if you have hot spots.... Quote Link to comment
510Goonies Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Seem to have found the problem! the wire that attaches to the temp sensor was barely attached to the round female connector so the reading on the gauge moved up or down depending how much of a contact it was making. if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Well it is a measure of resistance, so yes that makes sense. Quote Link to comment
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