720driver97 Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Finnaly got my axles toyota mini truck axles with 4.38 gears and lockers, I also have the leaf Springs.so What else do I need to put his these in my truck? I want to be running 35s for tires 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 First and foremost, something up front to hook the leaf springs to for the front axle. And likely some modified steering pieces to function properly on the 5 odd inches of lift you need minimum. 1 Quote Link to comment
720driver97 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 What should I do for the steering? 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Research how solid axle guys with huge tires modify their steering. Then do something similar. 1 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 What should I do for the steering? You should have thought about this before you bought the axels. The 6 Ps of management! Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance! 5 Quote Link to comment
720driver97 Posted June 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 I know I was going to have to do something different for the steering, what have you guys done to solve this? Im not sure how to do it being it's a front to back swing axle. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 I used a Toyota V6 power steering box and made my own crossover hi-steer. My build thread is in my sig, it's a 620 but the principles are the same. You want to get your drag link as flat as possible to reduce/elimate bump steer. 1 Quote Link to comment
720driver97 Posted June 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Ok thanks everyone! I think I have it figured out for the steering. These axles have been sitting for a few years so I was thinking of buying a rebuild kit and covering them with POR15 and bed liner does this sound like a good idea or not? I will do the same to the frame of the truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 You should have thought about this before you bought the axels. The 6 Ps of management! Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance! Planning will only get you so far. You need to have the axles, or whatever it is, engine, manifold, etc, to get a visual. I build custom vehicles for a living and I try to start with a plan, but most times it gets thrown out the window anyway. Mock ups and experience are the only ways to be able to foresee the pitfalls and potential failures. 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Ok thanks everyone! I think I have it figured out for the steering. These axles have been sitting for a few years so I was thinking of buying a rebuild kit and covering them with POR15 and bed liner does this sound like a good idea or not? I will do the same to the frame of the truck. What steering did you end up with? I assume you'll be using a high steer kit, since you're installing leaf springs. I wish I were closer then I could stop by and point out all the things to look out for. If the axle has been sitting for a while, you will probably need to rebuild the knuckles, which sucks. It's one of the dirtiest jobs on earth. And while you're at it, you may as well swap in the vented rotors and IFS V6 calipers. I run Tacoma brakes on my Toy Mini axles and they really work well, plus they're a slip on rotor so removing them is a snap. I'd love to help you with your build so feel free to email me and we can strike up a conversation. stoffregenmotorsports@gmail.com 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 These SAS threads never seem to get off the ground. Too bad. I'd love to see an actual build from start to finish. (emphasis on finish) 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 I know what you mean.It's a lot of work to plan and build a good front setup. Maybe he's in the garage getting work done. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 What should I do for the steering? You should have thought about this before you bought the axels. The 6 Ps of management! Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance! Zackly. (though I should talk. I fixed these problems as I went along. To my credit I did have a plan but it turned out it was weak.). I welded plates to the frame because the 'Yoda springs are mounted wider than the Datsun frame. On the 'Yoda the shackles are on the rear but I mounted mine to the front and anchored them at the rear instead. I just kept the 'Yoda top spring with the eyelet, re-arched to match the added F-150 leaves below. Very stiff and the truck was great on the road even with 16" of lift, but very little articulation for off road. You'll want height but less spring rate. Steering was just short of impossible with 10.5 X 31's so I added power steering, later I went to 12.5 X 33's. I got a spare 'Yoda steering knuckle arm and mounted it upside down on the top of the passenger side knuckle using longer bolts. Connected the Pittman arm down and over to it. The passenger side transfers steering to the drivers side with a cross rod? Brakes absolutely need a Willwood proportioning valve. The weight transfer is incredible at this height and the rears lock even on moderate braking. I could not apply anywhere full breaking without the rear trying to come around. Cutting about 60% to the rear fixed this and braking was perfect. The fronts can be used much harder because of the added traction from the weight shift. 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Can't wheel without power steering. You can, but it sucks. Most trucks have a built in load sensing proportioning valve, but I always ditch them in favor of an adjustable Wilwood prop valve. A couple hard stops in the rain will determine where it gets set. 2 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Hey i know this thread may be a little old... But got a road side question... So i will look more places than here.. I thought this may he a good place to start... Pulsating started in passenger side "alighment" when reaching higher speeds on way to where im at... Drove slowly the shorter distance to get to stopping point as within within possibly a half a mi?... So stopped.. Jacked up passenger side... Where i felt it more?... Checked for side to side play and i was able to here it as far as the steering wheel? Possibly the box itself? Both sides way more play than neccicary. Admittingly allignment is and has been off.. And there is/has been heavy wear on out side of both front tires... Anyone have any quality internet based refence tools i can use.. Cant exactly drive back home and get my book at the moment 1 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Any newr easily adaptable alignment guides i could do for this truck? First off.. And second off. Any good road side adjustment diagrams/internet references anyone. Know about? 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 If there is heavy wear on the outside of the tires you have too much toe in. If you have loose steering components this can create death wobble.Typically it will be worse on one side if you have a loose tie-rod end on that side, that allows the tire to flop and start an oscillation. Of course, this is assuming that the wheel bearings are tight? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends all affect death wobble. A bad steering box or even loose steering shaft u-joints can cause it too. Solid axle 4x4's have only two adjustments for the front "alignment". There's the toe adjustment on the tie rod (from knuckle to knuckle) and there's also an adjustment on the drag link (from steering box to knuckle). Depending on the tire size, 1/16" to 1/4" toe in is desired. The smaller the tire, the less toe in you need. What axle is under it? 2 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 K adjusted the steering box... And the wobble is definitly easier to control... But noticed i lost a weight... Probably what caused it im hopin... The steering box has been needing to be adjusted/tightened for a while now so im glad thats out.... No knock or click wheel i force the wheel side to side or top to bottom. So sounds like the bearing is ok... Feels now like a very very slightly bent rim and can only feel it over forty..ish. So yeah hopin its just the weight and not actually bent . Ok now another question im pretty sure of but.. Shouldnt the weights be the same on all sides? Noticed my rear isnt the same on passenger as it is on driver... I have another weight layin around but not the same as driverside in the front. Maybebi should just pickup 4 of the same wieght? 1 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 (note that i said pretty sure of... I could most definitly be wrong) 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 No. Weights are to balance the tire/rim combo. Each tire is different even if they are the "same". Balancing should be done with a machine. How much weight is as important as where you put the weight 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Whoa! Ok, wheel weights. Yes, tires are balanced on a machine. The machine tells you how far out of balance the tire is, which is adjusted with a wheel weight. That weight needs to go in a specific place on the outside of the rim (not towards the wheel center/bolt circle area). But, that's probably not your problem. 1 Quote Link to comment
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