logicali Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I have a fully built small block Chevy with Aluminum heads on it and has a bunch of lightweight racing parts I have a Borg Warner T5 transmission rebuilt ready to slap on and I have a Datsun 510 1972 2 door shell with the front suspension completely rebuilt already with 280 ZX parts .... I know all the haters are gonna say Too heavy in the front ...but Bre did one and just set the motor far back , and had to cut the fire wall ... I need to basically get -Motor crossmember -Trans crossmember - headers - Cut firewall Everything else is easy Any suggestions on the easiest way to get the crossmembers and headers Quote Link to comment
logicali Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I guess , I was just hoping there was an old school trick using some other kind of mounts or something , headers and trans mounts seem simple enough, but the motor crossmember and placement seems a little tough Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 -Motor crossmember -Trans crossmember - headers - Cut firewall Everything else is easy Cutting the firewall was the easiest part of my 2 ruined 510's .... :rofl: 9 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Also, get an aluminum block, else its too heavy. The green car (Pete Brocks) is running an aluminum block. 1 Quote Link to comment
logicali Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I really don't wanna ruin the car either, but I gave all the sbc parts laying around taking up space , and I am very familiar with the sbc so fixing would be easy , Anyone know any good fabricators in Los Angeles? Just for the crossmembers Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Also, get an aluminum block, else its too heavy. The green car (Pete Brocks) is running an aluminum block. And the whole engine is set around a foot back in the car. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 The engine will be so far back the crossmember probably isn't an issue, Steering will have to clear under the pan. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Here is an idea... if you have shit taking up space.. sell it or trade it. Can get a ka dirt cheap.. and it pretty much fits. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Are you planning to back set the engine like Pete Brocks car Quote Link to comment
logicali Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Are you planning to back set the engine like Pete Brocks car JUST TRYING TO DO WHATEVER IS EASIEST , WITH WHAT I HAVE Quote Link to comment
logicali Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I EMAILED PETER BROCK ,HE HIT ME BACK Hello Ali....Needless to say this isn't a project for the faint-hearted :0)There are no drawings! Even before you start cutting out the complete firewall be sure you build a substantial sub-frame and cage into the unit bodyto absorb all the stresses that will be acquired by the extra torque of some500 bhp. My advice is to just buy a complete LS4 Chevy with all thesupporting electronics and ECU that comes with it from Chevrolet. The restis just a matter of planning what you want the car to be. I have nointention of racing mine but it could be a fun drift racer. My purpose wasto build a very quiet "sleeper" that was essentially stock looking on theexterior and could be driven with complete confidence coast to coast with noconcerns about reliability. You'll have to build a complete new frontcross-member with rack and pinion steering. New struts and better brakes.Use a 240Z rear end (bolts right in). Cost? Figure you can probably buy anice slightly used Porsche for the same amount. Not nearly as much fun butperhaps more practical. You're always welcome to come and make notes.Note....you'll probably never "finish" this project as there's alwayssomething more that is "really needed" :0) Peter Brock 1 Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 There is nothing easy about this swap and even though it has been done before a handful of times it is not common. There is no one here that has a template to build a crossmember or dimentions to cut the firewall for your swap. You'll have to figure that out your self or pay someone to do it. If you were doing a more common swap I'm sure many would chime in with tips since the vg30 KA and SR swaps have been done many times but you won't find a "chevy v8 in a 510" guide here. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I have no desire to be rude, but may sound that way. A v8 510, one you will still enjoy driving 5 years from now, is not a goal to be made on a whim. I am not opposed to v8 swaps. I'm not opposed to builds using what you have on hand. Since you needed a fabricator, you are talking about investing SUBSTANTIAL funds into a complete reengineering of the front subframe and suspension. This could quickly and easily brake $10,000. Very quickly. You are making a $10,000+ decision based on the fact that you already own an $800 drive train. So far as you've told us, your only major motivation is that you already own the sbc. That is not much motivation when you've invested 3x what the car is worth and you aren't even halfway done. Brock isn't wrong about his price estimate. Anything easy will rapidly lose its shine when faced with the realities of a difficult car to drive. Can i ask what your goals are? If v8 510 is that goal, that's fine. Define it more. Cheapest and easiest? It won't handle turning worth a damn. Best handling ? Now you are on par with Pete brocks build. Or is your goal just more power? Better reliability? What do you want your 510 to do? 10K will build a 300 hp turbo KA engine, with upgraded suspension and braking to match. And it can be done with nearly zero fabrication on your part so you wouldn't need the shop. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 I would google "Chevy S10 chassis swaps". You'll find a lot of 40's-50's American swaps, but the British guys use them for Anglias and Morris Minor V8 swaps, too. Solves a LOT of problems, and getting a complete S10 that is being parted off CL is cheap and available. The frames are easy to shorten, and you get proper suspension, brakes and a rear axle that can handle a V8. There are drop spindles, bolt in 4-link, and rack and pinion steering kits for them as well. I couldn't believe it, but the S10 truck has only 1/2" wider track than a Morris Minor... I think a V8 510 with a proper full frame would be a lot of fun. I've always wanted a V8 320 wagon. Quote Link to comment
logicali Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Anybody wanna trade a 510 for a 240z lol 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Here is an idea... if you have shit taking up space.. sell it or trade it. Can get a ka dirt cheap.. and it pretty much fits. When did a ka become dirt cheap again!? 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 When did a ka become dirt cheap again!? As of 7:23 pm 2 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Basically, you are asking way too many questions. Go do more homework (swap info, and what you actually want from the car) before tearing into the car. Im not saying dont do it, I am saying you may not be ready. KAs can be had cheap, just depends, kind of like the $800 S13 convertible with a good dual cam my friend got... and then traded the KA for a CA... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Most V8 Datsuns is not a good driver. youll be more welcom on the 510realm. True datsun guys will help you on there. Julian will be the best to give you awnsers 5 Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Money time patience project space and a Lott of cussing is what it will come down to. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Let me know what JY those remains end up in, please. Quote Link to comment
Bubbamatt Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Not to be discouraging, but there are way more things to work on other than can you fit the motor in the car. It took me 7 years to initially put my car together, 3 years at running autocross to get the springs, sway bars and settings, shock settings, tire pressures, close to being dialed in. When I went to a new Ford Explorer crate motor, it took another 18 months to get the new motor situated and cleaning the rest of the car up and getting painted and re upholstered. I run Wilwood brales. Koni aluminum racing shocks, corvette rear end, highly modified, etc. Chevys are about 3 inches wider than a 5.0 and the distributor is in the back (unless you have crank fire ignition) plus the motor is about 150 lbs heavier than the Ford (cast iron). Having the motor is the least expense if you want to have a driveable car. I used mine as a daily driver to work for about 12 years with no problems other than having fuel pumps quit (Holley electrics) a couple of times. It is a bit noisy inside as I have no rugs or any insulation in the floor and the differential is mounted solid to the sub frame. I did not add flares to the car as it was originally built as a "sleeper" to piss off Porsche and BMW drivers. I did re-do the rear fenders on the inside to be able to use 225X15 slicks on 7" rims so the car looks pretty much stock and the paint is just an off white to not draw attention to the car. The car has no heater or defroster, so is not a great car in the rain or cold weather. My wife does not like riding in the beast as it is noisy and only goes on a quick trip to the mountains once a year. The car has 50,000 miles and many smiles on it so far. If you want to make a driver and one that handles you need the skills and time or you need a bucket or two of money to make it happen. The 240 Z swap is a much better set up if you don't have the time or skills to do the work. Still expect to spend about 5-10 times as much money on the project to make it happen. Here is a video of the car running at Qualcomm this Sunday......too tight of a course, but still much fun! Also are some pics of the car, motor, etc. and a car I built for Bonneville just for grins. As they say, enjoy the ride! 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Anybody wanna trade a 510 for a 240z lol This is the best idea you've had yet. ^_^ Although start with a 280Z. Less purist haters up your ass. And the unibody is a little stronger. And less prone to rust. And 5-6 years newer. And already set up for EFI. 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.