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I am now in the process of fixing up a 68 wagon with an L16 block A87 open chamber head. I would replace the the L16 with an L20 if I could find one in the kalispell, MT area.
it has been in a barn for the last 10 years.
compression test showed;
#1 100
#2 50
#3 55
#4 125
So time to bust into this. I don't have an engine jack so I am trying to do this all with the engine static.
I have marked and removed the timing assembly. and removed the head. looks real nasty on top of the the #1 piston is gritty stuff that looks like cat litter.
Anyways, next step is to remove the pistons and inspect the and measure the cylinders, hone(hopefully not have to bore), replace rings and bearings then go from there.
one main issue holding me up though how should I support the block to remove the cross member to get under the pan?

Thanks.
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Set a 2x4 across the engine bay. Get some chain. Put a bolt through a link and thread it in to something near the center of the engine. Run chain over board, get it snug, bolt it to the other side of your engine.

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read everything on Olddatsuns.com

read the Datsun tech section. my YOUTUBE vids are on there

 

find another wedge pin or whatever you call it. I forgot right now what its called.

 

lower the oil pan before  you try to wedge the front cover back on again.with out ripping under the new headgasket

 

 

I think you need to find another oil slinger ring yours looks chewed up. it will rip the front cover crank seal gasket

 

 

if you have all parts I say a 4 hr job

 

your in Montana Got to be some rednecks with a engine hoist and stand But this can be done with installed. Just what was bad on this???????Montana gets cold if a freeze pug went or a overheat we got to know othwise your going to do this again.  Most 1st timmers it takes 2 times

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Oil slinger ring! I threw that picture up so someone could identity the name for me. Thanks. Lol. All the freeze plugs are in it still not sure what to look for if it overheated?

Oil slinger was installed backwards by PO or his brother-in-law, change the freeze plugs anyway.

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While you have it torn down, it would be a good time to remove the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold. Cut the tubes off so you can get a wrench on the fittings and if they don't want to come out, put some penetrating oil on them and heat the fitting red hot and they come out fairly easy, just don't round the fittings off trying without heat. Then you can remove the tubes that stick into the head. looks like someone tried to plug it already. When you get the fitting out just put in plugs or a bolt, I used longer bolts and then cut the them off flush with the manifold

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The engine mounts are on the crossmember so support the engine with a joist or better... remove it and do it right. Easier to get at will make the job better. Even the core plugs, should you choose to.

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update. unbolted passenger motor mount had a buddy help support up top while I jacked up one side. wiggled the oil pan enough to get the filter bolts off then presto slid the oil pan right out. lowered back into position secured the mounts.  now I have access to the rods/bearings.

sounds kinda dumb, but it worked and nothing broke so I'm happy
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