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Suspension upgrade for B310


Javi_Mayne

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What does your question mean? "Best" means many things and we have no idea what your goals are. Explain your goals, ask clearer questions and you will have all the help you need. Vague unclear questions will just get you flamed around here.

 

Better questions:

 

How can I best lower my car?

 

How can I restore the suspension to factory performance?

 

How do I make my car stop nose diving/dodging to one side/other problem?

 

What are the best autocross/drag/drift/rally modifications I can make to improve turning/launch/travel/oversteer?

 

Be clear, get clear answers.

 

Welcome to ratsun. First rule of ratsun POST PICS!

 

We look forward to helping you get your car figured out.

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Great question, but would also agree with Lockleaf that you would have to be specific with what you ask of :) 
And also always post pic's of the ride you are going to work on :D 

 

But this is what i have been told regarding your question;

 

When I went to but some parts from a former Datsun dealer(now Nissan Workshop) I mentioned that I might lower the car, and he almost flipped out *_* According to him it ruins the car when you lower it... apparently... (He was in his 70's and this is/was his life) 

But to get good or better suspension there is a number of things you can do.

1. First an formost, I would go back to stock. Get new shocks for the rear, gas/oil you choice, I get factory new org. gas shocks for the rear. Need to do the same for the front but he didn't have the parts :/

 

From that you can begin to modify it to you needs and liking :-)

 

2. Get coilover's for the front ( you can get weld on kits from T3 ) + there is "how to"s on this 

- another way to go here could be to upgrade the braking as well and get a set off 280ZX front struts and throw that assembly in there, bigger brakes ect. would help heaps with breaking and also get coilover kit and put on them.

 

When you have your front figured out, go to the back.

Here there is several things to play with.

 

Coilovers, removing leaf's, 2-3-4-5 link setup, IRS, ect. 

 

Most people say that the rear is too stiff org. if you ride the car alone. Fix this by removing leafs.

If you want to be able to adjust the rear to your liking you can go coilover in the rear also. There is several ways;

- Remove all but the main leaf, so you still have something to hold the axel in place. Install adjustable coilover to your pref. (+ a good thing to add if you do this is Traction Bar's )

- Go X-link setup and coilover, bit tricky but doable.

 

Hope it helps :D 

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Well factory coil springs are slightly 'soft' to give the greatest comfort to the most average drivers. So it's comfort above performance and handling. I'm not saying you should have bone jarring springs but a slight increase in spring rate will translate out to slightly better road handling. Now, you can replace your springs if you know their rate with something firmer.... or you can calculate out how much to trim your spring to increase the rate. Yes, shortening a coil spring makes it stiffer.

 

If you have the original struts they come from the factory with oil bath dampers. (shocks) Again, two ways to go here. You can dump the oil out, remove the dampers and replace with inserts. OR dump out the thin watery oil and replace with thicker motorcycle fork oil. Thicker oil is harder to push through the valves and will firm them up. 

 

Lowering the vehicle height. This is also closely related to shortening or replacing you coil springs and is a great way to lower the center of gravity which removes that top heavy feeling going around tight turns. The rear also needs to be included when lowering.

 

Tires are an integral part of the suspension and they have come a long way since '81. 

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Problem is nobody makes a sway bar for the front other than stock replacement. Im using 200lb spring in the front and 180lb springs in the rear the front dampners are monroe HD with a shortened strut from a pl510 with 4 piston wilwood brakes the rear in my car is custom toyota stuff but im using a 2.5 coilover type springs and pro mustang II stiff valved shocks

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Addco sway bar is same size as stock they claim its 1" but its not i went rounds with those guys already about this they sent me 2 of them (still have them.)Not only are they not the size they claim, they dont even fit the B310 chassis. I think they are confused on what car this sway bar even fits. My guess is a B210 or a HL510 and they are labeling it wrong.

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From the 1200 wiki it says our front suspension is the same at least lower control arms and tension control rods. I used the TTT 510 parts and found them to fit perfectly. The front sway bar is for a 510 as well. It is what they recommended for trck use. Same length and bend positions as the B210, just larger. B310 (210) may be different but from your pics the mounting to the conto arm looks the same. I'll see if I can dig up some pics of my front underneath.

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No advantage to 510 struts. They also have smaller hub bearings and 10 year older calipers. If strut swapping, get 280zx which are shorter to begin with and have a massive caliper and vented rotor brake up grade.

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zx struts are ok but there getting expensive anymore 510 stuff is cheap to free and its easy to upgrade them to wilwood 4 piston calipers which have become cheaper then a garbage parts house reman caliper in most cases.

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No advantage to 510 struts. They also have smaller hub bearings and 10 year older calipers. If strut swapping, get 280zx which are shorter to begin with and have a massive caliper and vented rotor brake up grade.

 

Can you just use the 280sx struts and keep the B210 or 210 brake system? I would like to do the entire swap and get the advantages of the bigger caliper and vented rotor upgrade, but cant find the whole shebang and I been looking for sometime now. 

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