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510 L18 swap not running


tlonberg

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Hi,

 

This is the first time i post in this forum and I need some help from you to get my engine running.

 

First things first, let me introduce myself. My name is Thomas and I live in Oslo, Norway.

I bought a 70 Datsun 510 4-door as a not finished project some weeks ago.

Here it is in my garage.

 

16.05.29_01.jpeg

 

It had a L13 engine from the factory but the previous owner have swapped to a L18 from a 83 Datsun 720 Pickup, but this does not start.

A Weber 32/36 is also fitted as you can see in this picture.

 

16.05.29_02.jpeg

 

I do not have any experience with engines of this age so I have to apologize for all the questions.

Anyway, the starter motor turns the engine fine, and I have spark at the plugs and petrol in the carburetor. However the petrol ignites, it pops and flames sticks out of the carburetor.

 

The vacuum pump does not have any power. How should this be wired? Live when key is in position 2?

And does anyone know where I should connect the yellow (black stripe) wire seen at top of the picture?

 

16.05.29_03.jpeg

 

The other end of the vacuum hose is connected under the carburetor, here:

 

16.05.29_04.jpeg

 

In this picture the electric choke can also be seen. Am I correct that this should be live when key is in position 2?

 

Moving to the back side of the engine.

Number 1 and 2 are not connected to anything (I have plugged no 1). Can I plug them both? If not, what are they for and where should they go?

And finally, the throttle (3) does obviously not fit the carburetor. Is there a conversion kit available for the Weber 32/36?

 

16.05.29_06.jpeg

 

Anything else I should consider checking?

 

Again, sorry for all the noob questions. I appreciate all the help I can get to get this engine running.

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Hi Tomas and welcome to Ratsun.

 

That's a nice clean garage and 510 you have. Lets see if we can clear up some of your problems...

 

16.05.29_03.jpeg

 

This is the distributor and the part with the hose is the vacuum advance, and why it is connected to the carburetor base. Those two connections are likely for a ground wire. The distributor case will ground to the engine by the mounting bolts but a separate ground is also good. If you have spark then it's safe to leave this as it is.

 

The Yellow/Black stripe wire I don't know. Can you follow it back in the harness and see where it goes? Has someone added to it's length, and used Yellow/Black on that end?

 

 

 

16.05.29_04.jpeg

 

Choke heater can be wired to anything that is hot (or on) when the ignition is on in the run position.

 

 

 

16.05.29_06.jpeg

 

#1 was likely for an EGR (exhaust recirculation) valve, not needed and rightly sealed. The #2 pipe is for a vacuum line to the brake booster, also not needed and must be sealed. Any opening to the intake is an air leak and must be sealed, else the engine cannot draw air through the carburetor properly. This alone will likely get you going.

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Thank you very much for your reply KING RAT.

 

I will investigate the mystery of the YB wire a bit later.

 

I sealed the two holes on the intake and tried to crank it again.

This time white smoke pops up of the carburetor at the same intervals while cranking. Also oil comes out as you can see on the cam cover and carburetor. The carb was perfectly clean before I cranked it.

This can't be good?

 

16.05.29_07.jpeg

 

16.05.29_08.jpeg

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Looks like #2 will cause vacuum leak, plug that. And your throttle does not look like its hook up. I have also a 32/36 weber and dont see the U shape lever that should be connected to the throttle bar thayis coming out of the firewall. Do a search on ratsun about 32/36 weber hook up or linkages and u should find something...good luck and welcome.

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Do you know if the previous owner (PO) took the engine apart apart at all before installing it?

 

I feel like there might be a timing issue, like maybe the cam wasn't timed right when installed.

 

Cool car, welcome to ratsun.

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On the 510 it's Yellow/White.... but might be it.

 

Carb spitting...

 

 At TDC on #1 the rotor should be pointing near to a plug wire on the cap above it. This MUST be number one. Check firing order... 1342 counter clockwise.

 

Retard the timing slightly.

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yellow black is the temp sender. with key on should have 12volts

 

olddatsuns.com has my vedio on you tube  L series Hainz vedio

or on Vemio.co  Hainz on 2scond page will awnser most question (full vedio)

 

I cant post a link. somebody post it

 

 

best to have gotten the manual Weber carb. not the auto choke

 

if you have the stock carb the linkage might fit the weber as its close to the same . from the stock Hitachi

 

#2 needs to be plugged up or removed and plugged up.

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Thank you all for your replies. I really appreciate your help.

 

Every time I buy a new car I try to find a good community around the model, at it seems that I have just found the best here at Ratsun. :)

 

Looks like #2 will cause vacuum leak, plug that. And your throttle does not look like its hook up. I have also a 32/36 weber and dont see the U shape lever that should be connected to the throttle bar thayis coming out of the firewall. Do a search on ratsun about 32/36 weber hook up or linkages and u should find something...good luck and welcome.

 

Also is #3 a manual choke cable? But u have electric? If going electric, then u dont need. And s there and adapter plate on the carb? Or was it installed on top of intake w/ out adapter plate?

 

It is good that you ask these questions.

The adapter plate seems to be missing and I would not have noticed this if you did not ask the question. It is currently mounted on top of the intake without adapter plate. I will investigate this.

Do you have pictures of your installation that I can use as a reference?

 

Around #3 it is a manual choke cable. It would probably be best to have a manual choke carburetor, but if it can be solved by just connecting a wire it is not a big problem.

 

#1 and #2 is now plugged with bolts I took from the L13 intake.

 

Do you know if the previous owner (PO) took the engine apart apart at all before installing it?

I feel like there might be a timing issue, like maybe the cam wasn't timed right when installed.

Cool car, welcome to ratsun.

 

No, I do not know if the previous owner took the engine apart unfortunately.

 

Most of the time that and engine backfires is due to incorrect timing, followed by a faulty carburetor and vacuum leaks. 

 

Here is one link to a thread on timing 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/6072-ignition-timing/

 

Hope it helps and welcome to Ratsun! Nice garage!! 

 

Thank you very much for the information.

Based on yours and Lockleaf's reply, incorrect timing is likely.

Leaks due to faulty carburetor install is also likely.

 

How is the vacuum system on these engines? Is it the only hose I mentioned in the first post?

 

Yellow wire/black stripe...coolant temp sensor. At least on my 521 it is. 

 

 

On the 510 it's Yellow/White.... but might be it.

 

Carb spitting...

 

 At TDC on #1 the rotor should be pointing near to a plug wire on the cap above it. This MUST be number one. Check firing order... 1342 counter clockwise.

 

Retard the timing slightly.

 

 

yellow black is the temp sender. with key on should have 12volts

 

olddatsuns.com has my vedio on you tube  L series Hainz vedio

or on Vemio.co  Hainz on 2scond page will awnser most question (full vedio)

 

I cant post a link. somebody post it

 

 

best to have gotten the manual Weber carb. not the auto choke

 

if you have the stock carb the linkage might fit the weber as its close to the same . from the stock Hitachi

 

#2 needs to be plugged up or removed and plugged up.

 

The YB wire do not have 12v when the key is in position 2. This can however be related to a blown fuse or something.

It goes in the same sock as the coil negative to distributor wire, and by using a multi meter I can trace it to the fuse box (wiper fuse). I will take out the temp gauge and see if I can trace it here also.

Since it ends up in the same place as the distributor I think it should be connected to something placed near this, and the temp sensor sounds likely. Thanks.

 

I do have the stock carburetors from L13 and L18 and I will investigate if the linkage can be used.

 

This is likely just gas that got spit back and it washed some carbon off the valve.

 

Hope so. This got me worried.

 

To sum things up it looks like I have numerous problems.

1. Knowledge. I have to get a service manual and gain more knowledge around these engines.

2. Timing. It needs to be sorted. At TDC rotor points at 1. Then the order is 342.

3. Carburetor. Adapter plate missing. Possible more air leaks.

4. Throttle linkage. This can probably be solved by using parts from the old carburetors.

5. Choke. I have manual choke cable, the L13 carb have manual choke, L18 and Weber carb are electric. Is it really as simple as just wire it up?

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Check the plug wire/fire order before opening shit up. The PO could have never opened her up, but likely pulled the plugs or dizzy. First things first. There is something going on with the timing though for sure.

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Go search on ratsun, theres a ratsun member that downloaded tons of books. On adapter plate, you should get one piece adapter from pierce manifold, gilroy, calif. Or ebay, 2 piece are prone to vacuum leaks. When u do tighten it down, snug is good. Dont overtighten cuz u can bend the bolt and/or the adapter. I think its aluminum. You can also covert to manual choke. Parts u can get from weber direct, ebay, amazon or piece. Or you can w

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Oops..or you can wire the elec.choke. search this site for 32/36 weber install. You can also open the valve cover and if rotor is pointing to 1 spark plug wire then the first 2 cam lobes should b pointing at 10 and 2 oclock. This should be tdc or zero degrees on pulley. Before taking out dizzy, search on this site distributor install or you tube hainz video datsun 510, should come up. Good luck.

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Thanks, I will check.

 

Btw, i dont think u have numerous problems. I think u have numerous opportunities to learn about datsuns. Forgot, u can also search on "how to" section on this forums.

 

You are absolutely right. It is not problems, it is opportunities to gain knowledge.  :thumbup:

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The only vacuum line I ever had on mine was the one to the distributor vacuum advance. There was not need for any others, unless you are running emission system pieces. And for the just starting up the engine, you can also plug that one up. It only comes into play when you are on the road. 

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Vacuum advance is always an advantage if you are running part throttle... which is 99.99999% of the time. Race engines don't need it but you do. Mileage at part throttle or cruise on the highway is improved from having the proper ignition timing.

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  • 5 weeks later...
With a lot of help from you guys, and especially Doctor510 who have helped me a lot by emailing me, the engine now runs! It was the firing order that needed to be sorted.

And immediately a new problem appeared. It will not stop! Even with ignition off, key out and battery negative terminal disconnected, it runs. Oh well.

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I believe if a newer internally regulated alternator is swapped in by mistake it will keep running. It can be used, if properly converted by joining two pairs of wires and removing the old external voltage regulator.... or replacing the internally regulated alternator with an externally regulated alternator.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If this is the stock alternator and stock external voltage regulator still on there then the External volt reg is bad of moto does not shut off

 

OH everything you needed to know was on Olddatsuns.com in the tech section. espcially the fire order and on my vedio

Yes you are right banzai510(hainz), your video and manuals helped a lot. Thank you very much.

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