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R160 clsd help please.


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I posted this on my build thread

So...I did some more investigation today on my r160 clsd rear diff. It seams like maybe the output shaft bearing is bad. The diff was really hot after a short normal drive home from work. Sounds like a hub bearing but it's coming for dead center of the car....

 

I have a spare r160 clsd, that came with the car... I opened the case and it all looks pretty good, turns nice and smooth, no play, both axles are turning in the same direction :).

..looks like 39:11 is stamped on the gear.

 

Any test I should do before swapping it out? Trying to see if the 1/2 shaft stubs will bolt it? Not sure what to look for between the 2.

What to do before I pull out the old one?

Here's a few pics.

ED8B2469-B0CD-4285-8AB7-17AF54C088C5_zps

915D424C-9D22-426F-9D78-D6D0F82CFDD1_zps

D01801D5-6865-441C-A3FB-92B7072748E1_zps

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It was too hot to the touch, the fluid was like new when I check the level, as soon as I opened the fill plug, it started to pure out. Plug was clean as a whistle!

zianian had the lsd checked out when he thought there was a problem last fall, he said the shop opened it up abd inspected it and was all good.

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Make sure it's got GL5 and run the shit out of it, they do get hot to the touch, don't overfill either, a bad bearing usually makes a very annoying humming noise.

 

"Sounds like a hub bearing but it's coming for dead center of the car.... "

 

 

I think it's noisy.

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It kinda sounds like when A cars been sitting for a while and the rotors have crap on them for that first 1/2 mile until you hit the brakes to clean them off. If that make sense. Lol

 

It's not the brakes. I just bleed them and they aren't hanging up at all.

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It kinda sounds like when A cars been sitting for a while and the rotors have crap on them for that first 1/2 mile until you hit the brakes to clean them off. If that make sense. Lol

 

It's not the brakes. I just bleed them and they aren't hanging up at all.

 

Sounds like a bad pinion bearing.

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Well I think my spare diff is a newer one with the c clips, Got to figure out what I'm going to do. Not sure if the one in there now is rebuildable(available parts)

 

Unless it is totally blown up, it should be very re-buildable and bearings should be easily available. Find a reputable rear end shop, not strip club, that is for later, and have them go through it. 

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Unless it is totally blown up, it should be very re-buildable and bearings should be easily available. Find a reputable rear end shop, not strip club, that is for later, and have them go through it.

That's good news... Need to start calling around for a good reputable drive shaft/rear end shop.

Thanks!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Diffs get hot. Unless smoking just drive it. Sound could be anything that moves.

should've listened to you!  I had the bearings changed in my diff, (cause I wanted a piece of mind)    It all was great of ran entire week! Now Its worse than before! Sounds like the back lash has moved/shifted and is not rt. She's really whining/howling....only n acceleration a little but kicks in when just cruising...nothing on declaration.  

Now I need to bring back to the shop that did the bearings and hope they can set the backlash rt this time or I just threw away $$, time, and hopefully didnt mess up my diff!!!    So upsetting!!!! Might end up having the entire thing rebuilt!!  lesson learned!

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Are your left and right rear tires same size (diameter), inflated the same, and share equal tread wear?  LSD diffs don't like inconsistent tire diameter, it works the clutch pack like you are always going around a corner, results in hot running and possibly chatter if you don't have lsd modifier fluid added.

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When the bearings where changed the backlash/wear pattern should have been set. Just cant change bearings without checking the backlash/wear pattern. Nissan has a very involved process to establish the bearing thickness by placing a set load on the bearing then measuring its thickness. You then add or subtract shims on the housing using a formula in the factory manual. The factory manual goes into great detail of what needs done. But that is still just theoretical, at the end of the day you still need to check the wear pattern on the ring & pinion and adjust accordingly.

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I knew it was involved. It Looks like I'm going to have to drop it off at a real rear shop to go though it correctly before I put it back in.

 

I jut took it out and brought it to the shop that swapped the bearings. He thinks the pinion shaft bolt just loosened.... Wants to tighten it up an I'm assuming that's it. I told him to check the back lash to make sure it's Rt.

 

After he "looks" at it, I think I need to buy the bullet and have the specially shop go though it to make sure it is in fact set up correctly.

Probably cost me some more $$ but I think it'll be well worth the piece of mind.

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Pinion NUT should either be staked or cotter keyed, they don't come loose, unless inferior work is performed. Backlash is only half of the equation, the contact pattern also needs to be evaluated. Search for the procedure, print it out, and whoever u take the thing to, ask them if they can do it. It aint no ford 9 inch.

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They come loose if they're not set tight enough in the first place. Shops who don't do a lot of diffs always seem to be afraid of them. It's all about feel. So it doesn't surprise me that the nut "needs to be adjusted". For the record, there is no adjustment, there's right and wrong.

 

Red loctite, proper crush and stake the nut. That's the right way.

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