banzai510(hainz) Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 recently on the last hot day my 521 was really getting hot. The old Modine Rad was leaky a tiny bit so I said F**K It Im buying one of those Chinese rads. Amazon had the OPL brand listed was sent to my house in like 3 days and 133$ delivered. Looks the same as the Champion brand which is the same as Eagle( I think) So I removed the old rad and mounted the new one. I see I would need spacers as everybody says they need. I had bought 2 set of plastic washers from the Hardware store. 1/4and next size is maybe 3/8 or 1/2.spacers The bigger spacerr would have been better but I think my rad bolts are M8x1.00. as I didn't have extra. I had longer M8x1.25 big didn't want to X thread. So I went with the 1/4 size. Installe the lower ones first but Knowing what I know know I would super glue the spacer on first nex time around. last spacer was hard to keep falling down as I had the orginal length bolts. That's why superglue next time(really use the bigger spacers if off again with longer size bolts) On 521 the ignition wires ect run right under the front Rad uptop and these new Rads the flang is not offset which mounts the rad right up to the front thus crushing the wires. That's why the Spacers are needed. Even more so on a 521 than a 510(wires run under the rad). I loosen the wire clips and routed the electrical wires above the return Radiator hose. I will get some fiberglass tape to wrap to keep the tape from getting hot./ I was going to route under but thought maybe to close to the fan. Don't know why the flange can be offset 1/2 inch at the factory and people complain to the company..The rad fins have more than enough clearance for the stock 510 fan from hitting. Don't know about the later l20b with fan clutch) There might be a slight leak but maybe just from overfilling cause I see antifreeze at the bottom by the fins but. No major leaks under the truck at work. it cools verywell and for 130$ Well its all you can seem to get from now on. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 No pics, Hainz? Almost bought the one you did chasing an overheat problem. Found out my overheat is electrical, not mechanical. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 no photos and dont know how to load them since the Change over on how to post photos Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 On every 521 I got, the radiator bolts are 5/16-24. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 You know I wasnt sure on those . I assumed I will be buying some if I remember. Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!5/16-24 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 When goy mine back there were no bolts. The radiator was held in with zip ties. The thread pitch is close enough to 8x1.25 to run a tap through it cleanly. That is what I did. No issues since. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 All the body fasteners on a 521 are American SAE sized. Engine, transmission, and rear axle bolts are Metric. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 Not anymore. Not on mine. Lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 recently on the last hot day my 521 was really getting hot. The old Modine Rad was leaky a tiny bit so I said F**K It Im buying one of those Chinese rads. Amazon had the OPL brand listed was sent to my house in like 3 days and 133$ delivered. Looks the same as the Champion brand which is the same as Eagle( I think) So I removed the old rad and mounted the new one. I see I would need spacers as everybody says they need. I had bought 2 set of plastic washers from the Hardware store. 1/4and next size is maybe 3/8 or 1/2.spacers The bigger spacerr would have been better but I think my rad bolts are M8x1.00. as I didn't have extra. I had longer M8x1.25 big didn't want to X thread. So I went with the 1/4 size. Installe the lower ones first but Knowing what I know know I would super glue the spacer on first nex time around. last spacer was hard to keep falling down as I had the orginal length bolts. That's why superglue next time(really use the bigger spacers if off again with longer size bolts) On 521 the ignition wires ect run right under the front Rad uptop and these new Rads the flang is not offset which mounts the rad right up to the front thus crushing the wires. That's why the Spacers are needed. Even more so on a 521 than a 510(wires run under the rad). I loosen the wire clips and routed the electrical wires above the return Radiator hose. I will get some fiberglass tape to wrap to keep the tape from getting hot./ I was going to route under but thought maybe to close to the fan. Don't know why the flange can be offset 1/2 inch at the factory and people complain to the company..The rad fins have more than enough clearance for the stock 510 fan from hitting. Don't know about the later l20b with fan clutch) There might be a slight leak but maybe just from overfilling cause I see antifreeze at the bottom by the fins but. No major leaks under the truck at work. it cools verywell and for 130$ Well its all you can seem to get from now on. ii bought three champions and two of them leaked at the bottom Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 I remember your write up on that. maybe its just I spilled alot of antifreeze on the fins and its slowly leaking down to the bottom. I see a tiny bit on bottom. cking every day right now. What you do with the Rads that leaked? UPDATE 4 days and running cool and no leaks Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 UPDATE oK this rad works great. In traffic temps climbs up to the normal temp line but by then on moving so I think Ill never pop a headgasket with a 3 core. Winter might be cold but I might put a 195 stat in there and see if that helps OPL brand on Amazon 133$ sent However went to install my other rad in the 510 and it will need even bigger spacers maybe a 1/2 inch and the lower inlet will be close to the alternator. or cut the corners then flatten the ring around the core support opening otherwise wont be flush So I installed my Rods Discount Datsun 3 core which was a perfect fit but not the cool looking aluminum Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Bumping this...cause I noticed mine was dripping on the driver side above the petcock. I topped it off yesterday so maybe its just from over filling it. Anyways in my search I came across this one Amazon and saw your review about it leaking. Anyways...please confirm: https://www.amazon.com/HPR407-Aluminum-Radiator-Datsun-Transmission/dp/B00EOYQAZ2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505588103&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=opi+datsun+521+radiator Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Stay away from those Alum. Chinese made ones, unless its KOYO brand, pricier but heard quality is better. Quote Link to comment
Motopilot Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Thanks for the info Hainz I am looking for a new one to put in our 521 to go with the KA24 swap. I am a bit nervous about the Chinese aluminum ones for the 510 ka24 swap.... they never show the mounting bracket to make it fit the oe mounts. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 the KOYOs need spacers also. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.