Putting a sr20det in a 411

[Mike411]

Looking at putting a sr20det in my 411, looking for pros and cons. If any one has put a efi engine in and what it's going to take when it comes to the wiring for the ecm. Any help and comments are welcome thanks.

[flatcat19]

Look up Can-Am box on this forum.

[MikeRL411]

_{The first thing you need to do is to take a tape measure and scope out the overall length of a SR20DET [including fan] and the available firewall to radiator room under the 411 hood!  Take especial note of the intrusion of the windshield wiper motor and related drive arms.}

[Swedishcadillac]

Luckily for you, I can barely remember my wedding anniversary but I have a Rainman like recollection of all things 410/411. On Instagram I saw a shop called 5pointz fabrication do this swap a year ago and just spent a half hour trying to find the pictures. Can it be done? Yes. Will it be easy? Hell no! If you assume it would cost $3000 and six months, I would guess it would cost $7000 and two years. This is speaking from personal experience. I did an A12GX/5spd in my wagon. The electrical was no problem but involved me flying somebody from Oregon to Hawaii and back and feeding and housing him for 10 days... enough talking on with the pictures!!!!

 

Here is the first step of the process

[Swedishcadillac]

 

Then slip in the motor, fabricate a new subframe, motor mounts, transmission mount, driveline, exhaust system, make a radiator fit and solve all of the radiator hose/fuel line/steering/master cylinder clearance issues that will come up, oil filter relocation and fabricate an entirely new firewall...

[Swedishcadillac]

 

Tranny tunnel fab and then hook up all of those sensors to the computer brain of a 60-year-old car

[Swedishcadillac]

 

And when you're almost done, two years later. You just have to move your wiper motor in board and fabricate these linkages to make your wipers work. Hopefully your wife hasn't divorced you and you missed your kids growing up. Can't wait to see the progress. LOL

[Lockleaf]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69099-my-latest-engine-swap/?do=findComment&comment=1384308

 

Maybe talk to this guy. Not a turbo, but it's an excellent and very affordable efi engine swap without the crazy cutting.

[bananahamuck]

I think just moving the wipers into the cabin like that would take me $3000. and two years to accomplish . :rofl:

[datsunfreak]

As was once told to me by someone who has done a lot of SR20 swaps, make a box. It needs to be 24" long, 24" wide, and 24" tall. Then see what it takes to fit that box where the engine goes.  B)

[Swedishcadillac]

There is 10 or 20 major projects I forgot to mention like fabricating a throttle cable system, disc brake upgrades, etc. and then fitting the turbo would require a whole Nother topic/post. but I wanna see it!

[Mike411]

Thanks for the input guys, I definitely don't want to start hacking away at the firewall yet. Just want something with more power and efi.

[INDY510]

That swap above is a non-turbo SR20DE ... so it would be even harder to fit a SR20DET (might not even be possible with stock steering)

[Draker]

see link above from lockleaf. Clean efi engine

[Swedishcadillac]

see link above from lockleaf. Clean efi engine

It is clean, it should also be noted that that is Jfbrink's latest swap in a long line of swaps including converting A 411 to electric. He has an impressive YouTube channel With a bunch of swaps...

 

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCyb1uvmwK6xKl4eolNe-mXg

[paradime]

I'm not sure where the steering box sits in a 411, but there are guys who've managed to finagle the down pipe off the stock SR bottom mount t25 turbo on LHD 510s. Not totally sure thats with the stock steering though. Miata rack in a 411? 

[Lockleaf]

I'm not sure where the steering box sits in a 411, but there are guys who've managed to finagle the down pipe off the stock SR bottom mount t25 turbo on LHD 510s. Not totally sure thats with the stock steering though. Miata rack in a 411?

I would imagine if miata is too wide for 510, its way too wide for 411. Lots of finagling to make that happen. Maybe no space to move it up enough to make it work.

[Mike411]

I've thought about putting a rack and Pinon in for p/s, I'll definitely check out jfbrinks, channel. Thanks

[jfbrink]

The engine bay on the 411 is so darn short, front to back, that you find yourself losing the wiper motor, putting fans in front of the radiator and generally getting goofy way too fast, even my G13BB, which is the shortest modern I4 I could find out there, required a 1/2" pocket for the cam end. The right V-6 is way easier, because I find the width far less of a challenge.

 

I've done a lot of Datsun drive train swaps, which always include all new electrical, fuel and brake systems, and each tends to take several years of planning, one year of building and about $2500-$3000. A lot of that price comes from the two things I don't do myself: driveshaft ($300) and exhaust ($200-300). I only buy major components from the JY on 1/2 price day. I fab a lot of stuff. I move very, very slowly to try to avoid having to do things more than once.

 

For people who find my Suzuki G13BB 1.3L swap too tame, let me know that it is relatively easy for less than $1K to add a AMR-500 supercharger to the engine. The blower basically bolts right to the stock A/C bracket. Just add aftermarket ECU and a small intercooler (and plenty of AMR-500 folks skip the intercooler). I was going to do it, but I ended up liking the car tame and gave the S/C to my dad for his G10 3-cylinder.

 

For people who find my Suzuki G13BB 1.3L swap too tame, but who want to stay N/A, I think this K8/KL V-6 swap I'm working on is going to be the sh*t. Test fitting indicated that no body mods will be necessary with a Miata 5-speed attached. I may need to massage the tunnel on my wagon, which did not have factory A/T, now that I am putting an automatic on the V-6. I will have to heavily modify the center section of the crossmember, but that's really not a big deal. Steering will stay the same; heater box and wiper motor can stay the same. I'll use stock 411 A/T shifter components to retain column shift, because that's how A/Ts should be shifted.

 

Best,

Jesse.

[Mike411]

Jesse, looking to keep it all nissian if at all possible and looking to put a turbo on it. Don't need ungodly hp yet. I've heard to of bodys not being strong enough to.

[MikeRL411]

The engine bay on the 411 is so darn short, front to back, that you find yourself losing the wiper motor, putting fans in front of the radiator and generally getting goofy way too fast, even my G13BB, which is the shortest modern I4 I could find out there, required a 1/2" pocket for the cam end. The right V-6 is way easier, because I find the width far less of a challenge.

 

I've done a lot of Datsun drive train swaps, which always include all new electrical, fuel and brake systems, and each tends to take several years of planning, one year of building and about $2500-$3000. A lot of that price comes from the two things I don't do myself: driveshaft ($300) and exhaust ($200-300). I only buy major components from the JY on 1/2 price day. I fab a lot of stuff. I move very, very slowly to try to avoid having to do things more than once.

 

For people who find my Suzuki G13BB 1.3L swap too tame, let me know that it is relatively easy for less than $1K to add a AMR-500 supercharger to the engine. The blower basically bolts right to the stock A/C bracket. Just add aftermarket ECU and a small intercooler (and plenty of AMR-500 folks skip the intercooler). I was going to do it, but I ended up liking the car tame and gave the S/C to my dad for his G10 3-cylinder.

 

For people who find my Suzuki G13BB 1.3L swap too tame, but who want to stay N/A, I think this K8/KL V-6 swap I'm working on is going to be the sh*t. Test fitting indicated that no body mods will be necessary with a Miata 5-speed attached. I may need to massage the tunnel on my wagon, which did not have factory A/T, now that I am putting an automatic on the V-6. I will have to heavily modify the center section of the crossmember, but that's really not a big deal. Steering will stay the same; heater box and wiper motor can stay the same. I'll use stock 411 A/T shifter components to retain column shift, because that's how A/Ts should be shifted.

 

Best,

Jesse.

 

A caution!  The RL411 British Borg Warner Automatic Transmission was dependent on a "socket" fitting on the modified RL411 type R engine rear lower left block casting and a companion fitting bolted to the left front frame to fit up the horizontal shaft of the column shift mechanism!  Otherwise the BW M35 shift shaft would have no input.  Alignment of the shift points is very dependent on the integrity of the engine and transmission mounts.  Been there, done that, my RL411 with BW M35 transmission still works like the champ it is.  With replacement OEM transmission and engine block mounts [very many years ago]Don't know just how you will anchor the inboard engine block end of the BW column shift shaft.

[Mike411]

Well Its going to be a manual, don't want an auto. What w trans are you running and what engine?

[MikeRL411]

Well Its going to be a manual, don't want an auto. What w trans are you running and what engine

 

Addressing me?  I have the original RL411 British Borg Warner M35 transmission and its original type R1600 cc engine as modified by the factory to fit into the mini 411 engine compartment!  The stock column shift only applies to the BW M35 transmission!  The manual 4 on the floor shift  version RL411 requires a tunnel hole and manual shift gear assembly.  It's not going to be as easy as you think it will be.  If you insist on going ahead with the manual replacement, I have a front manual floor replacement 4 on the floor rug segment that you can have, it's black loop ply if that makes any difference. 

[Mike411]

Yes mikerl411 I was. I know it's probably ly not going to be easy but manual is going to be so much more fun.

[Mike411]

Also. Was looking at the read axle and wondered how much power those can take or what works to swap