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Where to get replacement floor pans?


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#21 Mattndew76

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Posted 04 August 2016 - 06:43 PM

Status?

 

Still sitting. Currently machining a Intake Manifold for a Roadster SR20DE


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#22 njoz1200ute

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 01:14 PM

How confident are you that the VW floor pans will fit?

Its the only thing keeping my coupe from registration.

#23 Mattndew76

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 08:14 AM

How confident are you that the VW floor pans will fit?

Its the only thing keeping my coupe from registration.

 

I know they will fit. I bought a driver side and passenger side.

 

Your pans are not as long as these, but Tim will trim and dolly some of the extra material off these to get them to lay in correct. 

 

If you have decent patterns of your pans there is a guy here on the forums that can make a set for you. He has said he needs a pattern to work from. I am trying to find his thread now.


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#24 Draker

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 08:21 AM

metalguy541, I think.


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#25 njoz1200ute

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 03:50 PM

Why bother if these VW pans fit? I would rather use them instead.

#26 datsunfreak

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 06:13 PM

Its the only thing keeping my coupe from registration.

 

You can't register it with a rusty floor? 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#27 powerbench

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 08:14 PM

It probably has to go thru a visual inspection like up here.( great White North) before reggy



#28 datsunfreak

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 03:52 PM

It probably has to go thru a visual inspection like up here.( great White North) before reggy

 

Same here (with cars newer than 25 years), but they've never looked at the floors. Maybe because we aren't in the "rust belt"?   ^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#29 njoz1200ute

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Posted 29 August 2016 - 06:50 PM

I gave up and bought two new pans from Automotive Panel Craft in Australia.

Cost my left nut.

Should be here in 2 or 3 weeks

#30 datsunfreak

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Posted 29 August 2016 - 07:02 PM

minimal hang over. They will fit just fine with some trim and dolly work.

 

install images to come 

 

So just to clarify, definitely worth buying for a 1200, and goes back behind the seat mount? Looks like it from your pics. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#31 Mattndew76

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 09:29 AM

So just to clarify, definitely worth buying for a 1200, and goes back behind the seat mount? Looks like it from your pics. 

 

Absolutely worth the buy. Cant beat the price, and it goes beyond the seat mount.

 

The dimensions are ever so slightly over the 1200 factory pan. The sub frame even aligns with where the sub frame was on the rabbit. 


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#32 datsunfreak

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 06:26 PM

Absolutely worth the buy. Cant beat the price, and it goes beyond the seat mount.

 

The dimensions are ever so slightly over the 1200 factory pan. The sub frame even aligns with where the sub frame was on the rabbit. 

 

Excellent. Will order them up this week. Thanks!  :thumbup:


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#33 datsunfreak

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 01:30 PM

VW rabbit pans almost have the same dimensions as our 1200's

 

You can get both sides shipped new for under $200.00

 

from

 

 https://www.mtmfg.co...4-Golf-I-Rabbit

 

Did their price change? That's looking like $290+ shipped. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#34 datsunfreak

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 02:23 PM

This place seems a bit cheaper? Can't say if they're trustworthy...

 

http://www.topbanana...-floor-pan.html

http://www.topbanana...-floor-pan.html


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#35 njoz1200ute

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 06:40 PM

How do you handle the seat cross rail?  Do you remove it and put it back or do you weld around it?



#36 Mattndew76

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 09:01 PM

How do you handle the seat cross rail? Do you remove it and put it back or do you weld around it?


I removed mine at the spot welds. I plan to put them back in after the floors are in.

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#37 Mattndew76

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 09:03 PM

Did their price change? That's looking like $290+ shipped.

That would be a no.

That 200$ shipped was just for the front pans. For a Ute.

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#38 Lockleaf

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 09:06 PM

I haven't messed with a 1200, but I've spot weld cut and removed seat cross members from a 720 and reinstalled them in my 510 by rosette welding the open spot weld holes. Seems like it would work fine in this scenario.

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#39 datsunfreak

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Posted 05 September 2016 - 08:59 AM

How do you handle the seat cross rail?  Do you remove it and put it back or do you weld around it?

 

FWIW, mine have already been cut out by the PO. I'm thinking I'll get some 2" box and just make new ones when I'm done. That way they will be set up for whatever seats I install.


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#40 njoz1200ute

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 05:16 PM

I removed mine at the spot welds. I plan to put them back in after the floors are in.

 

Sounds like a PITA trying to get them plumb and square and back in their original spot.

 

I think I am going to leave mine in and cut my floor pans short of the seat rail.  The seat rails seem okay on my car, they are not too rusty or falling apart.  Otherwise I would try and remove them too since the floor pans will extend past and it seems like a waste of $$$ paying for metal I am going to cut off.   But so be it.   I suppose the best way to get the seat rail back in straight is to bolt it to the seats first and reinstall the seats then spot weld it and take the seats off.   So I have been told on another forum