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L20b power loss/valve problems?


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#141 racerx

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 02:02 PM

I would get new.  Your local auto stores don't sell aftermarket coils? 



#142 racerx

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 02:16 PM

Unless I read it wrong, the Accel, yellow coil, is for a 73? and the used one also on Ebay is for a 79, so what year is your car?



#143 MapleNuts

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 03:59 PM

thanks lockleaf i found it.

http://www.oreillyau...02767&ppt=C0334

 

the local guys do, they sold me an electronic ignition one, and none of the other ones they carry has specs on them, just like the one above^^^

it's a 75 but shouldn't matter as long as it's the right ohms 



#144 datzenmike

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 04:53 PM

alright so i cant find the right coil localy,
found this on ebay, says its at 1.4ohms but 12v
http://www.ebay.com/...DdU~zvi&vxp=mtr
 
also found this, what one should i get?
http://www.ebay.com/...PkAAOSwll1Wxm~0


 
Already told you this....
 

EI coils are .8 to 1.0

Points coils are 1.1 to 1.43


1.4 ohms is fine when used with a ballast resistor.

 

 

This is not going to fix your engine problems. 8 pages and it's the rings and/or valve seals burning the oil and poor compression.
 


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#145 racerx

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 07:29 PM

Did u test ur coil before buying one?

#146 MapleNuts

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 09:13 PM

sorry mike i forgot the resistor brought down the voltage.

 

no i didn't test the coil beforehand, i just thought newer was better and tossed it like a goof

 

and i know its the rings because of the new valve seals

 

one last question and i'll put this thread to rest.

how is oil getting past the rings more on some cylinders if the compression is even all across?

 



#147 racerx

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 11:02 PM

Its not new being better. Either the coil works or not. If it is still good why spend money, spend time looking for it and second guessing if that will fix ur car. When u did ur compression check did u use a plug in or screw in type? Did u open your throttle all the way? Was the car warmed up before testing? The plug in type is innacurate found this out recently, off by 20 lbs.

#148 datzenmike

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 05:22 AM

Compression is held in by all the rings but mostly the top two. The bottom oil ring works like a squeegee and wipes the oil downward off the cylinders leaving an extremely thin coat. Very possible to have poor oil control but ok compression. Another is more oil getting on the rear cylinder walls than the others. This could be from the rod and main bearing having more clearance than the others. 


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#149 racerx

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 07:01 AM

Mike, in his case, will a leak down test be better?

#150 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 01:44 PM

disconnect the brake booster form the manifold and see if different.


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#151 MapleNuts

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 02:05 PM

thanks mike that's great to know.

 

yeah i was being a noob idiot racerx

it was a screw in type, hot, and throttle wide open.

also did a leakdown and it was about 15% loss on all cyl



#152 datzenmike

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 08:20 PM

Mike, in his case, will a leak down test be better?

 

Well he said the compression was even across all cylinders so a leak down won't point to anything much. If one were lower it might point to one of the valves leaking, a gasket or the rings.

 

15% isn't bad. 25% to 30% is getting pretty bad.


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