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A14 Valve Adjustment


jboulukos

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I am attempting to adjust the valves following a head gasket replacement.  The rocker arm is attached and now I'm trying to find the TDC mark by turning the fan.  I am uncertain as to the location of this mark.  Any help is appreciated.

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The timing mark will be on the fan belt pulley. You only need to be close to TDC on number 1 cylinder. Both valves should be closed on the compression stroke, but if one is open just turn one full turn and it will be closed. 

 

 

 

 

This following method means you only have to turn the engine one time once you start adjusting the valves. Once adjusted, warm the engine thoroughly and check the lash when HOT. All valve lash should be done on a hot engine. So this method also is very fast and the engine does not have time to cool down.

 

With the engine at or near TDC #1 set both valves, on the #2 cylinder set only the intake, on the #3 cylinder the exhaust. Now turn engine exactly one turn and set the #2 exhaust, #3 intake and both valves on #4.

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I see the number marks such as 10 and 20 on the pulley to the left.  On the pulley attached to the fan I see nothing.  

If both valves are closed on the compression stroke of cylinder 1, will that make the push rods be higher/taller?  I've read the process of adjusting the valves on this site and in the books I have. Im really stuck though with this process. 

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When turning the engine by hand watch the #1 intake valve spring. When it lifts completely you are on the compression stroke. Slowly turn the engine and watch the pulley near the timing scale (the thing with the 0 10 20 on it. You should see a small v or groove turn into position on the pulley rim. Stop there is close enough. 

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I see the number marks such as 10 and 20 on the pulley to the left.  On the pulley attached to the fan I see nothing.  

If both valves are closed on the compression stroke of cylinder 1, will that make the push rods be higher/taller?  I've read the process of adjusting the valves on this site and in the books I have. Im really stuck though with this process. 

Push rods will be SHORTER with the valve closed.  Just as Datzenmike said.  Rotate the motor clockwise, (plugs OUT make it easier) when you see #1 INTAKE valve close (spring at its longest)  look at the CRANK pulley, there should be a mark for TDC.  Adjust BOTH valves, rotate the motor 180* watch the INTAKE valve for #3 close, adjust  BOTH valves, repeat for #4 and #2 in that order.  Be careful, get them wrong and the Datsun Gods will punish you.  Good luck, take your time and please read and reread the advisory posts, you will learn some thing, never mind what your brother - law's buddy says.

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Push rods will be SHORTER with the valve closed.  Just as Datzenmike said.  Rotate the motor clockwise, (plugs OUT make it easier) when you see #1 INTAKE valve close (spring at its longest)  look at the CRANK pulley, there should be a mark for TDC.  Adjust BOTH valves, rotate the motor 180* watch the INTAKE valve for #3 close, adjust  BOTH valves, repeat for #4 and #2 in that order.  Be careful, get them wrong and the Datsun Gods will punish you.  Good luck, take your time and please read and reread the advisory posts, you will learn some thing, never mind what your brother - law's buddy says.

Is the CRANK pulley the same pulley attached to the fan?

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NO

I spin the fan clockwise and see the intake #1 rise...I look at the crank pulley near the number and see nothing distinct...a few lines indented into the pulley attached to the crank pulley but they look as though it's from old age. The mark is not distinct though.

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Just put on snug for now and warm up the engine so you can set the valves hot. Don't use gasket sealer or the gasket will get pissed of that you think it can't do it's job.

 

Thanks!  I did the cold setting, then changed the oil, added coolant, attached the battery and it started up nice.

Still had white smoke coming out the tailpipe.  Can this be some residual water in the engine from before replacing the gasket?

 

While taking off the valve cover for the hot valve setting, I noticed an oil leak from the valve cover.  I had just replaced the valve cover gasket (cork type) and thought I screwed down the valve cover pretty snug.  Any thoughts on why the valve cover can be leaking?  

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The two surfaces must be clean and undamaged. Take a look at the crush pattern on the cork. Any place not sealing or the gasket not on properly?  I would imagine 4-6 ft lbs on the valve cover bolts.

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The two surfaces must be clean and undamaged. Take a look at the crush pattern on the cork. Any place not sealing or the gasket not on properly?  I would imagine 4-6 ft lbs on the valve cover bolts.

I'll check the crush pattern.  I may have had less torque on the drivers side bolts as I tightened with a small phillips head since the air cleaner is in the way.  Also the gasket was completely oiled up when I removed the cover to attempt the hot valve setting.  I will clean it up and try again.  I will tighten it down with the air cleaner off. 

 

As far as the hot valve setting....Is is alright to remove the spark plugs while its hot?  I did the cold setting but the fan belt slips while turning the fan clockwise especially.  Is it ok to turn counterclockwise?   Also, if I turn the engine with a socket, which pulley can I turn it from? 

 

I know these are basic questions but I'm definitely still learning and am doing quite well.  Slowly but surely.  

 

Also, the cold valve setting is .25 mm.  Does this mean I use the feeler gauge marked both .229 .279 (is this a range?) to slide under?  And if the next largest gauge (.254 .305) does not slide under, then it's correctly adjusted? 

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You can adjust straight Hot.  Good to retorque the head bolts after 500 or 600 miles.  Only retorque the head bolts cold, never hot.

 

The pulley nut is a 27mm if I remember correctly if you want to put a socket on it for turning the engine.

 

You can also use the distributor position to determine if you are at number 1.

 

To save confusion on adjusting the valve last just write down and counting front to back of motor.

 

Cylinder 1 TDC adjust 1,2,3,5

Rotate 1 full turn to cylinder 4 TDC adjust 4,6,7,8.

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You shouldn't have to re-torque the head bolts. There's no harm done if you do.

 

NEVER re-torque the head bolts when the engine is warm. Do only when cold.

 

No you do not have too re-do the valve lash.

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For me it has always been a matter of feel; taking a slight tug when removing the gauge after tightening.  After removal try the next size up, it should not fit in the gap.

The cold valve setting is .25 mm.  Does this mean I use the feeler gauge marked both .229 .279 (is this a range?) to slide under?  And if the next largest gauge (.254 .305) does not slide under, then it's correctly adjusted? 

 

Are these ranges of numbers on each gauge?  The actual reading of the gauge is my question.

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