Nissan/Datsun SAS information

[Lockleaf]

Frequently, you have to cut the front lower control arm bolts on BOTH sides of the lower subframe, then smash the remnants out of there with fire and vengeance.

 

It sucks. Badly. I've done multiple.

[xHighOctanex]

Frequently, you have to cut the front lower control arm bolts on BOTH sides of the lower subframe, then smash the remnants out of there with fire and vengeance.

 

It sucks. Badly. I've done multiple.

Yea I learned that last night, driver side like everything is just hanging by that bolt. Gonna have to get the torch from my buddy

[xHighOctanex]

Frequently, you have to cut the front lower control arm bolts on BOTH sides of the lower subframe, then smash the remnants out of there with fire and vengeance.

 

It sucks. Badly. I've done multiple.

You had experience with putting a later model transfer/transmission in? Is it possible to use like a pathfinder or d21 transfercase and marry it to my trans or do I have to run the trans and the transfer from the other vehicle?

[Lockleaf]

I'm relatively certain that you need the trans and transfer case in order to use the tx10 tcase. The tx10 bolts to the trans body in a fashion I dont believe the 720 trans is built to accept.

 

Additionally, the d21 uses a 71c series trans, which is stronger than the 71b in the 720.

 

Why do you want to abandon the T100 tcase you have in there?

[xHighOctanex]

I'm relatively certain that you need the trans and transfer case in order to use the tx10 tcase. The tx10 bolts to the trans body in a fashion I dont believe the 720 trans is built to accept.

 

Additionally, the d21 uses a 71c series trans, which is stronger than the 71b in the 720.

 

Why do you want to abandon the T100 tcase you have in there?

A few reasons, first is I would like to go with a married transfer to lift it up a little bit and get some space since I have already dented a driveshaft once, second the axle I'm putting in is much more driver drop than the transfer case aims and was told the later model transfers are a little more driver, but with that I have been told as long as I don't exceed 7 degrees in angle I should be ok since I don't go fast in 4wd anyways, and last I figured it would be a little stronger.

[xHighOctanex]

I'm relatively certain that you need the trans and transfer case in order to use the tx10 tcase. The tx10 bolts to the trans body in a fashion I dont believe the 720 trans is built to accept.

 

Additionally, the d21 uses a 71c series trans, which is stronger than the 71b in the 720.

 

Why do you want to abandon the T100 tcase you have in there?

Literally just looked on craigslist found a 95 manual pathfinder trans and transfer for 150 

[xHighOctanex]

So finished getting my control arms cut out last night and just placed the axle underneath the truck for now. I think my plan from here is see where I need mounts do all my measurements see what current mounts I can still use even if just as platforms for my new mounts. Steering looks like it should almost line up perfect once I move the axle into it'd actual spit driveshaft doesn't look much off so that <7degree angle should be met. I think for reinforcement I will do separately per mount since I want to basically build a full undercarriage skid plate anyways with braces bolted to the frame so those should be good.

[]2eDeYe]

Caster is the first thing you should set if possible. This will affect your steering. If you need to rotate the axle to get good driveshaft angles you may need to rotate the knuckles to get good caster back.

 

Bad caster will cause the truck to dart and the steering won't return to center. 

[xHighOctanex]

Got the axle centered look, so far my stock shock mounts will work perfect, the rear mounts for the lower control arms will work, well not that mount but that spot exactly I where the new mounts will go they line up pearl, the panhard bar will be able to bolt straight to the frame behind the steering in the frame once the rest of the upper control arm and old diff mounts are gone. Steering looks like at the worst I need to lengthen it a tiny bit but once I flip the link around should line up last thing is to see where my lower arms are gonna mount and looking at the driveshaft angle idk yet that angle shouldn't exceed 7 degrees at the joints but won't know until I get it to a driveshaft shop

[]2eDeYe]

You can run a double carden driveshaft to help with the angles. You could use one from a yota or a jeep cherokee, you'll likely need an adapter flange of some sort anyways to match the Nissan case to the dana axle. 

[xHighOctanex]

Caster is the first thing you should set if possible. This will affect your steering. If you need to rotate the axle to get good driveshaft angles you may need to rotate the knuckles to get good caster back.

 

Bad caster will cause the truck to dart and the steering won't return to center.

Caster is the axle being straight right? Like straight down the front the axle is straight across not pointed? Alignments aren't my strong point I'm going to an alignment place in town after I finish the truck lol.

[]2eDeYe]

Caster is the vertical line running through the center of your balljoints when viewed from the side of the vehicle. Shopping cart wheels are a good example of how caste works. 

 

This link explains the basics of each geometrical control for a steering axle.

 

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

 

If I remember correctly you want 5-7 degrees of caster \

 

 

Edit: you want to set this first as the steering knuckles are welded on and it's not something that can be easily adjusted.
 

[xHighOctanex]

Caster is the vertical line running through the center of your balljoints when viewed from the side of the vehicle. Shopping cart wheels are a good example of how caste works.

 

This link explains the basics of each geometrical control for a steering axle.

 

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

 

If I remember correctly you want 5-7 degrees of caster \

 

 

Edit: you want to set this first as the steering knuckles are welded on and it's not something that can be easily adjusted.

 

So it would be driveshaft angle up and down relative to the caster right? That's what you meant about adjusting for the driveshaft angle after caster? If that then I only need like maybe 1-3 degree going up at the driveshaft whatever that would equal at the knuckles to the wheels. When I get home I'll do more research and look at it

[]2eDeYe]

Driveshaft is secondary to steering. You want a safe, stable front end before you worry about sending power to it. 

If you setup the front for caster and then measure your driveshaft angle you'll have a better idea of what is going to work. If you are close to the stock angles all around for the dana 30 you should be good. Look for the numbers on the vehicle you got the axle from. Usually bad angles start to happen when lifting 5 or more inches. I was able to setup my dana 44 with stock caster and maintained good driveshaft angles without too much trouble. 

 

If you do end up having to adjust for the driveshaft angle you will need to cut and turn the knuckles to maintain good caster. 

 

This link shows the amount of work involved. 

http://cutandturn.com/tech.html

[xHighOctanex]

So tonight is the night we start welding in mounts, everything looks good, should line up for the driveshaft good enough to use 4wd at a reasonable speed, the upper arms line up with frame perfect, stock shock mounts perfect, steering just needs a slight extension afterwards, brake lines long enough. lower mounts are gonna be custom so those will be dealt with tomorrow or this week.

 

But here are some pictures for the enjoyment of everyone 

 

First time I slid it underneath the truck 

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Roughly in place but you can see how the shock mount fits

4

 

You can see the mounts left over still, this was before we finished cutting the old mounts out.

 

Looks like a junkyard but again 

 

Rolled underneath to measure and everything and I mean come on... Look at that pretty face  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I'm watching with great curiosity. Dying to find out where this thing lands in terms of ride height.

 

You aren't going to try to use the stock shock towers, are you?

 

And the coils...they look awkward in the pics. Are they vertical or are they canted out at the tops?

[xHighOctanex]

Nothing is bolted straight in or even welded in the truck yet, the night was a bust we got the spring mounts made that's about it not in the truck yet. The springs sit straight up when theyre actually in the right place the pictures they're just set on the axle. My plan is yes to use the stock shock mounts since they line up pretty much perfect, in the next couple days when I do my final measurements and we go to weld in the springs I'll know for sure if I need to move the mounts. Right now the axle is under the truck was line up last night shocks are in the mounts the springs are just sitting but more so straight up the spring mounts are not welded in and so far everything clears. I have more pictures but I'm on my phone so I can upload them when I get home

[xHighOctanex]

I'm watching with great curiosity. Dying to find out where this thing lands in terms of ride height.

 

You aren't going to try to use the stock shock towers, are you?

 

And the coils...they look awkward in the pics. Are they vertical or are they canted out at the tops?

Oh and it looks like it'll be pretty tall which I'm not the happiest about but the springs are just stock Cherokee springs so I'm hoping between the spring compression and how wide it'll be the truck won't be too high, I'm not shooting for too much higher than I was on the ifs just maybe enough to comfortably run 33s. I'm not looking to touch the sky, just enough to get me off the ground.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Cool. Keep going.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Updates?

[xHighOctanex]

Updates?

Yea sorry ran into some problems starting with my welder blowing me off repeatedly and ignoring my calls and texts. Finally got ahold of another friend with a good welder so we're going to mock everything up with a harbor freight welder so it's on the ground and we can drive it couple blocks to my friends who is a good welder and has a good welder to do the final passes. As for the truck we got one side spring perch in last night and of course I forgot to account for the Pitman arm since I did the spring shock location measurements on the passenger side as it was easier to access in my dirty garage at the time. Cleaned it up then got the driver side in and then saw there was an issue. So instead of moving everything back since the axle is in a good spot for a temporary fix I'm not super proud of we cut my Pitman arm at both bends and make it go down and shorter so my steering won't be great and as soon as the truck is driving around I'm gonna look into a new box or whatever I can figure out. Other than that looks like everything else is still going decent I'll get some pics this week once the axle is hanging.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Please do not drive on a welded pitman arm.

 

You're life is in your own hands, but there are other people on the road too.

[]2eDeYe]

Toyota IFS box is a good box, easy to package and you can buy and mount kit for it from a few different vendors. 

[xHighOctanex]

Please do not drive on a welded pitman arm.

 

You're life is in your own hands, but there are other people on the road too.

The Pitman arm only has to drive me about 8 houses down to where the welding is getting done once that's done i am using a u joint to move the box to the other side of the frame. Not driving around town on that arm

[xHighOctanex]

Toyota IFS box is a good box, easy to package and you can buy and mount kit for it from a few different vendors.

I'll have to look into that depending on how the moved box goes. Mine leaks like hell anyways