xHighOctanex Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 This particular write up is not mine, this is from a guy on Craigslist who was selling the truck that I messaged asking for information and stuff on the swap. He gave me permission to throw it on here to help anyone who is interested, more will be updated as he finishes little things and eventually when/hopefully if I start mine. 1981 Datsun 720 KC Z22 rebuilt with Weber carb Dana 44s from a 1/2 ton Chevy with 4.10s (believes they are 79 axles maybe 80s, he says yes it's pretty wide will need flares and mud flaps eventually) 1: Well first I beefed up and reinforced the frame in the front. Then moved the leaf spring shackles to where the axles will sit. For the ebrake I just rigged it up to work. Then I bought a high steer crossover kit because the steering box is so small. I bought a Reid racing knuckle kit for the front passenger side( and new ball joints for it and pressed them in with a tool I rented at autozone) with a steering arm to bolt on top of the new knuckle. Then I made a tie rod from passenger knuckle arm up to the pitman arm on the steering box.... 2: My tie rods are rubbing so I need to move the tie rod that goes straight across from the arms back under the leaf springs from knuckle to knuckle like it was 3: You'll need a dana44 hub nut socket to put that knuckle on 4: Getting the front leaf springs to fit right is the tricky part. 5: You need to make some new shock brackets in the front on the frame for the travel. And new shocks of course 6: Oh and make sure you take off the steer box and beef up the frame where it bolts on as well 7: You won't need a raised arm on the knuckle just a straight arm 8: I just had to move my steering box forward so the drag link and tie rod wouldn't cross and hit it was a huge process 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 I would love to give this guy some pointers. Pics would be nice as every build is different. Have him email me direct. 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 Best to go to power steering right away, using the stock 620 box is asking for issues. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 For the best amount of options, I would probably use a Toyota IFS box. And power steering is a must. Have you ever driven a crawler with manual steering? SUCKS! 2 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Would an IFS eliminator kit for 79-85 toyota pickup work for the 84 720? comes with pretty much everything minus the axle which i can get a dana 30 for 80$ like tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 If you're looking for easy, buy a Toyota. There are a few variables that may affect what parts you buy and how you install them. Frame width - If 720 width is same as Toyota, then a Toyota kit should work. But it still may not be the best place to start. Frame horn shape - From the side view, if the front of the frame is too low, then the "drop bracket" or spring mount at the front of the truck will not mount properly, causing improper caster. Oh sure, this can be corrected, with longer shackles or modifying the perches on the axle, but depending on the axle you use, the diff side perch may not be easily modified. Lots of Dana axles had a cast in perch and it is very difficult to properly change the angle. Lift height - Building a tall truck is easy, but usually results in a scary ride on and off road. I specialize in building low slung off road rigs that are highly capable. The people who come to me know what it's like to drive a tall rig and want me to correct the mistake or build them a new rig with low CG in mind. Trust me, if you want to still be in love with the truck you built five or ten years down the road, build it as low as you can to fit the tires and have an appropriate amount of axle travel. There are guys here that have built Datsun 4x4's with solid axles, and one common problem is the t-case. There really is no easy solution for a strong, modular t-case that is any good. Can anything be built? Sure, but don't be fooled that the front axle is the biggest key to the puzzle. Building a truck around an $80 axle may not be the best way to spend valuable time and money. 2 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 If you're looking for easy, buy a Toyota. There are a few variables that may affect what parts you buy and how you install them. Frame width - If 720 width is same as Toyota, then a Toyota kit should work. But it still may not be the best place to start. Frame horn shape - From the side view, if the front of the frame is too low, then the "drop bracket" or spring mount at the front of the truck will not mount properly, causing improper caster. Oh sure, this can be corrected, with longer shackles or modifying the perches on the axle, but depending on the axle you use, the diff side perch may not be easily modified. Lots of Dana axles had a cast in perch and it is very difficult to properly change the angle. Lift height - Building a tall truck is easy, but usually results in a scary ride on and off road. I specialize in building low slung off road rigs that are highly capable. The people who come to me know what it's like to drive a tall rig and want me to correct the mistake or build them a new rig with low CG in mind. Trust me, if you want to still be in love with the truck you built five or ten years down the road, build it as low as you can to fit the tires and have an appropriate amount of axle travel. There are guys here that have built Datsun 4x4's with solid axles, and one common problem is the t-case. There really is no easy solution for a strong, modular t-case that is any good. Can anything be built? Sure, but don't be fooled that the front axle is the biggest key to the puzzle. Building a truck around an $80 axle may not be the best way to spend valuable time and money. I'm not worried on ease, I just want to build the most badass 720 in my area. The closest straight axle one around here is the guy who sent me that info, it's pretty nice. I'm not trying to go huge just high enough to be able to make it around some trails. I took the truck out a couple weeks ago and it did really good, even after I smacked a 3 inch long dent into my rear driveshaft. I obviously want the truck to last as long as possible, and despite the obvious abuse offroad, I do take care of it as best as I can. I'm only 18 so I don't have endless money so good enough is going to have to be good enough for now. All I want is a nice beater. Cutting the smallest corners possible not cheaping out on anything too important. When it gets to where I can start getting parts I'll get measurements to post and everything on here. Until then any help is greatly appreciated including even just a list of everything needed, I think I have everything in mind but always can be a few things I could be forgetting. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 I'm not trying to go huge just high enough to be able to make it around some trails. Well, as I mentioned above, building a tall truck is easy. You don't have to worry about frame to axle clearance or frame to steering links, or diff to engine clearance, etc. Since you're probably going to use leaf springs in the front, you are extremely limited as far as ride height goes. Your height will be determined, within certain variables, by the leaf springs you buy and your ability to make frame modifications. Start with the steering box and get it as far forward as possible. This will determine where you put the front axle. The further forward, the more clearance you will have to the things mentioned above. 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 Talk to ]2edeye, he wheels his 4x4 620 all the time, and its built right. 1 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 So I'm picking up a dans 30 friday I think and I already have leafs, just to get this thing driving what all do I need? Current goal is decently driveable and improvements can all be made along the way. The truck has been pissing me off for a couple months and I was about to sell it and decide if I keep it I'm gonna do some stuff. Anyways I want to be able to get it mounted and driving since it's my daily but I do have access to something else for a little if needed. What should I start buying? I have leafs and I'll have an axle that's in good condition. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Leaf hanger, shackle mounts, shackles, bushings, bolts, steering box, some form of crossover steering whether it be high steer or whatever (probably high steer if running leafs), fittings for power steering, joints for steering shaft, tie rod ends, brake lines, shocks, shock hoops or steel for fabbing your own, etc. You can do the driveshaft last. You going to rebuild and re-gear the axle at this time? 1 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted August 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 Leaf hanger, shackle mounts, shackles, bushings, bolts, steering box, some form of crossover steering whether it be high steer or whatever (probably high steer if running leafs), fittings for power steering, joints for steering shaft, tie rod ends, brake lines, shocks, shock hoops or steel for fabbing your own, etc. You can do the driveshaft last. You going to rebuild and re-gear the axle at this time? My goal now is to just get everything, match the gears to my rears, and get the swap done and on the road, then I'm going to take it to my driveshaft place and have that done, then make sure all my little things are done and done right then when I swap my rear axle is when I will rebuild and gear both. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 1, 2016 Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 That sounds like a plan. Hopefully the leaf pack you got isn't too tall. Use 5" shackles and run them through the frame if possible, otherwise it will be a mile high truck. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted September 1, 2016 Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Use 5" shackles and run them through the frame if possible This interests me, but not sure I really understand what you mean. Have any pics of shackles run as you describe? 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 1, 2016 Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Basically you sleeve through the frame with a tube that fit's the upper shackle bushing. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Pics? I could probably dig some up. Chevys and Toyota mini trucks have this style so go poke your head under one of those. The one caveat is that the frame width needs to be close to the axle perch width. If it's not, you can still mount the shackles through the frame, but you need to think outside the box. 3 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted September 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Leaf hanger, shackle mounts, shackles, bushings, bolts, steering box, some form of crossover steering whether it be high steer or whatever (probably high steer if running leafs), fittings for power steering, joints for steering shaft, tie rod ends, brake lines, shocks, shock hoops or steel for fabbing your own, etc. You can do the driveshaft last. You going to rebuild and re-gear the axle at this time? Is my stock steering box unusable? The guy that I had talked to before from the write up on the beginning of this post was able to move his box and ran high steer. Is that fine to do? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 I have no idea. Someone on Ratsun said they run the stock Datsun box, but to me, it's about the availability of spares. How likely are you to find a Datsun P/S box in a pinch? Also, it's about aftermarket. You can buy 5 different style pitman arms (that I know of) for Toyota boxes. Start posting some pics of the parts you have and of the truck. With pics, I could help you sort out the details. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 The other nice thing about the Toyota box is the availability of aftermarket pitman arms. Not sure if the 720 box has the same sector shaft size, if it does, you may be able to use the Yota aftermarket arms. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 There is another pitman arm that works on Nissan boxes. I think it's Scout or Bronco. 1 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted September 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 So I picked up a Dana 30, guess I'm gonna be running a 4 link front suspension setup since it has pretty much everything Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 27, 2016 Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 4 link or a 3 link with panhard bar? 4 links are hard to package in front ends, unless you use teeny little short control arms. The shorter the link, the more dynamics that take place during the suspension cycle. Not good. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 27, 2016 Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 Get leaf springs. 1 Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 4 link or a 3 link with panhard bar? 4 links are hard to package in front ends, unless you use teeny little short control arms. The shorter the link, the more dynamics that take place during the suspension cycle. Not good. My bad 3 link I think with panhard. Quote Link to comment
xHighOctanex Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Get leaf springs. That was my goal originally but the axle I got I'd have to modify so much to fit leafs on it, it's more to that than get just the trailing arms and springs I'm missing. If I can ever get this old suspension off... Front lower control arm nuts are stuck and I don't have anything to press them out with Quote Link to comment
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