nissan/datsan720 Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Ok.. Im new to forums and.. Well internets stuff... But ive got and odd question about the 720 pilot bearing.. Ok found the source of the rattle before putting to many miles on it.. Just before i bought the truck the 85 engine was swapped with an 84. The 84 was clearly on an automatic because they forgot to remove the flex plate spacer.. Which was crushed very slightly.. Basically the key source of the rattle.. And hopefully now that its gone.. The only source... Anyway spent so much time figuring all this out... And now i cant get the new pilot bearing to fit..... Second clutch ordered.. Btw.. Parts geek sucks in that sence.. Had to pay the return shipping... Half the amount of the clutch to begin with... But anyway. The second clutch i bought.. Valeo.. Simple cheap oem... Has a pilot bearing i cant get to fit... Tinybit to thick.. Has anyone ran into this problem before? For any reason would the 85 and 84 engines have a different crank size?.. (fits on tanny side but wont slide into the cam easily.. Is it safe to tap it in? Its bronze so im wondering if it just loosens in the cam end.. Or would this be too tight for the bearing(bushing) to handle?.. Any help would be super appreciated 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 The proper pilot bushing is Nissan # 32202-3000 and are only $5 at the dealer. You're in Pittsburgh there must be a shop near you. Order one just to be safe. The pilot bushing I listed has been used since '65 in every L,Z, SD,CA,VG,KA (and more) engines, and is likely still being used today. To answer your question, no there is only one size. It's a press in, snug fit. It's sintered bronze powder so don't hammer on it directly, just place a block of wood over it and tap into the crankshaft with a hammer 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 I have had one that gave me trouble getting it started in its hole. I filed the front lip of it just a little to round the edge over. That was enough to get it started and then it installed like normal. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 I have had one that gave me trouble getting it started in its hole. I filed the front lip of it just a little to round the edge over. That was enough to get it started and then it installed like normal. Not saying this is the case... hammering can distort it and banging the transmission input into it can also. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 I have definately distorted them myself. I've jacked up three or four of them. 1 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Nice answered everything.. So i do tap it in.. Wasnt sure if i should do this.. So cam side first it is... Tryed it from the tanny side thinkn itd be easier but i guess not... Thats seriouly a tight fit though... Ima check it with calipers just to be safe 1 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Went back on real easy aftr pushin the bushing on the cam side..thank yaw.. Now i have another question... My marking on the splines that mate with my propeller shaft seemed to have worn off.. Shoulda made them better..but now im tryn to figure out how i can line up the propeller shaft splines so i dont hurt my diff... Any suggestions... Rotated them a bit when puttin the tranny back in(and now wish ida marked um better or got some of the oil off my hand before i turned it) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 The driveshaft just slides into the transmission once the transmission is in and bolted down. It doesn't need to be marked so it's exactly the way it came out. You have the two piece driveshaft with center support bearing? Just bolt it down. Then lift the back end of the driveshaft to the differential flange and bolt it on. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 As in lining up the drive shaft? If you lost your marks, just bolt it in. As far as I've understood people doing it is to avoid vibrations because stuff has settled at that point. I have never done this and never really noticed a new vibration because of it. 1 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Ok cool thank yaw so much.. I remember my neighborentioning it in a different build .. And honestly barely remeber what he said..but figured id check.almost done.. Gonna check it all in daylight before i start it... Serioulsly though i should have joined this forum ages ago... I will recomend it to friends as well... Yaw have a good night 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 As in lining up the drive shaft? If you lost your marks, just bolt it in. As far as I've understood people doing it is to avoid vibrations because stuff has settled at that point. I have never done this and never really noticed a new vibration because of it. I've never marked a driveshaft to put it back in, in the same position. If it starts vibrating (very doubtful) just turn it 180. The two part driveshaft is balanced as a unit so if replacing the U joint it's very important to assemble it with the front and back in the same positions. 1 Quote Link to comment
nissan/datsan720 Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Any of yaw know what type of oil should i put in the tranny its a 5 speed 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 GL-4 75w-90 or 80w-90. It MUST be GL-4 not GL-5. GL-5 does not protect the synchros properly. Napa is the only one who carries it on hand in the store. 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.