'85 z24 4x4 oil pan gasket

[SolidZ24x4]

I've changed the rest of them, so might as well go for the whole enchilada and replace the oil-pan gasket too; I'm in desperate need of closure and it comes in the form of a rectangular cork gasket and some RTV sealant.

 

Immediately after this bright idea I referenced my haines, and my fantasy of closure was deftly squashed by the three or more paragraphs explaining how to hoist the engine, drop the cross member, brace the differential, block out the engine with wood blocks, and everything short of rocket surgery to get the space needed for said closure.

 

I've always felt that closure is far more valuable than competence, or tedious rule-following, so I'm crowdsourcing suggestions...

Can

this be done without an engine hoist?

 

Thanks

[datzenmike]

First does it really need replacing? 'Might as well' Isn't reason enough.

 

Don't need RTV with a cork gasket. It's all one piece no joints to seal. Nissan didn't use it and you don't need to either. It's a Nissan not a chev.

 

No it can't be done with the engine in place above the differential and suspension.

[Lockleaf]

With all that effort, I would rather pull the engine

[Rhino13]

Yeah it's probably easier to pull the motor than getting everything under it out of the way enough. But like datzenmike said, why fix it if it's not leaking? Take my motor for example, it's got 510,000 miles on it, it's still got all the factory Nissan gaskets other than the valve cover and carb, and it never leaks even a drop. I've retorqued the head bolts and checked the pan, timing cover, and manifold bolts but all were good.

[SolidZ24x4]

Mine didnt leak anything before I got to it, but now there is a little stain of sadness whereever she is parked. I did check though and tightened up a few valve cover screws, hopefully it will dry up soon.

[Rhino13]

What oil do you run? Most people use delo400 15w40 in these motors, it's diesel oil so it's a bit thicker but works great.

[SolidZ24x4]

10w30...

[datzenmike]

Motor oils and engines have changed a lot in the last 20 years. I don't think there's a passenger car engine made that doesn't have a roller rocker cam in it. The catalytic converters have changed too. The older 30+ year old engines are severely in the minority and engine oil makers are under pressure to reduce the amount of zinc (ZDDP) anti scuff additives in their oils. Zinc is certain concentrations was used to protect our 'flat tappet' cams and rockers and now that there are so few older engines and all the new ones don't need this extra protection the levels have been dropping yearly. Zinc is also damaging to the cats and if you can believe the spin, zinc isn't good for the environment either.

 

ZDDP used to be in the 900-1300 PPM range and now is below 700 (give or take) Oil makers claim that the old levels were far higher than needed back in the day, and the new lower level is still enough.

 

Now I'm not suggesting they are full of shit.... but I am saying that I'm not running that stuff in my vintage engine if there's the slightest chance of grinding the lobes off my cam. Make no mistake, we run VINTAGE engines not the latest primo alloy metallurgical roller rocker engines with EFI. So here are the choices....

 

You can go with the oil makers assurances that the newer formula oils will still protect your engine. (right, the checks in the mail)

You can run these oils and add more ZDDP to 'beef it up'.

You can run 'Racing Oils' or maybe synthetic if that eliminates the problem.

 

Or you could change your choice of oil to one that has the same old levels. As it turns out Shell Rotella T 15w40 and Chevron Delo 400 15w40 both do. They are a 'light' diesel oil so be warned that they are more detergent than the regular gas engine oils. I don't see any problem and am on my 3rd or 4th oil change. You may notice that your oil gets dirty faster. This would be the detergent cleaning the engine. If your rings are only sealing in compression because they are solidly caked with carbon you might want to run something else, but for an engine in good shape it shouldn't be a problem. 

 

This is my choice. Are the new lower ZDDP levels sufficient to protect out engines... I have no idea. Up to you to decide what you want to do.

[Lockleaf]

Just to add over more vote, I have been running delo 15w-40 in my 720 for about 5 years. It is also what I run in all of my vintage Japanese motorcycles.

 

For exactly the reasons stated by Mike.

[bylzebub]

Good to know, looks like I'll be going delo 15w-40 next oil change and see what happens. Do you still change it every 3-5k miles?

 

I feel like a couple of you sage 720 types with all this insider knowledge need to do a 720 best practices page and keep it at the top. Would certainly help me a lot.

[datzenmike]

Change the oil when it's dirty or 5K miles.

ALWAYS change the filter and never with a fram.