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L18 Timing Issues


metalmonkey47

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Hey folks, I'm back at it again. Trying to help one of the locals get his L18 in his 620 back up and running after they attempted a dizzy swap, but running into a hickup. 

Long story short, dude buddy bought one of those POS 'Ebay' electronic distributors with the internal module and the truck hasn't run since. I went over there Sunday and found out that this garbage distributor is 180 degrees backward from the OEM matchbox (literally, the rotor is 100% the opposite direction.) 

We pulled a spare matchbox dizzy that he got off of his 520 to test it, checked the oil pump drive position at TDC which was dead on, and got the dizzy back in, but the truck still runs like garbage. backfiring out of the intake, etc etc. Couldn't get it to idle long enough to get a timing light on it. Regardless of dizzy position. We got it idling and started adjusting timing, and now all of the sudden the truck doesn't run and has no spark. Have 12v at coil+ and coil- but not spark from the dizzy.

I'm sure I'm overlooking something, but any feedback would be good. This truck hasn't seen the road in almost 7 months which is just way too long.

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You watch my vid? when I do the dizzy swaps?

 

Internal module? what does this mean? The first gen Nissan distributors with the remote module? Internal is confusing.

 

Put motor min TDC on the crank. Then notice the spindal setting and make sure its in the 11/28 postion. If NOT then that wasnt installed correctly or was changed to make something work.

 

180degs out dont means it garbage. Move the spark plug wire where 4 is make it 1. that simple

 

OK the spindal is in the 11/28 position at TDC installe the dist. with the timming plate close to middle position see where the rotor points with the cap on/off. Should be close to right on where the rotor points. and where number1 plug wire goes on. Then its 1 3 4 2 CCW fire order.

 

soemtimes one has to loosen the 8mm bolt on bottom of the dist to recenter the timming plate. as when putting a another on it has to be readjusted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is this a point coil with ballast or a EI coil and no ballast?

 

Your leaving to much out like is this a point ignition car/truck orginally or what.

 

If no spark now with the Matchbox recheack the fuse and connections. maybe a ground issue with those.

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those are a Chinese Pertronix clone with whole dist.

 

Key is make sure that plate set up correct with the dist mount. Just putting it in there the L16 had a smaller type mount and the L20 had 2 different offsets..ITS not a real generic set up. the distributor timming plate has to match to the dist mount with the tang where the 10mm bolt hole goes thru. otherwise dont put that 10mm head bolt in and just dial the dist till its at TDC and it should fire is the valave lash is good and you have gas.

 

 

another thing is like a Pertronix it needs to run with the stock point coil and the ballast resisitor(module can pop) and best to use the HOTSTART wire also.

 

Does not explain why the matchbox from the 520 did not make it run but maybe wa wired incorrect or soemthing. @ dist cant be bad.

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Most likely... dizzy not properly grounded. Some have a ground spade connector on them. Distributor MUST be well grounded to work.

 

 

EIwiringtocoil.jpg

 

You need 12 v on the B terminal of the module too.

You need a '78 or newer coil that is made for use with an EI distributor. If using a points coil you MUST run it with a ballast resistor.

 

Check for spark on the coil wire by momentarily grounding the -(neg) side with the key on.

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I'm going to save myself the embarrassment and say what I've been thinking all along.

In my defense it was late and I was tired. 

I........I think the firing order is 1-3-4-2 CW...not CCW.

Probably need to hook a ground wire up to the matchbox dizzy, that will probably solve the no spark issue.

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