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Halogen Lights, can I use them?


Eomund

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I'm thinking of upgrading my lights to halogen. I've been warned by my dad that 'A' the wiring might not be enough, and 'B' my alternator might not produce enough amps for this. Now, he comes from much older classics.

 

I just want to know if I can just buy halogen bulbs, or would I need to upgrade anything else?

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Good to know. I did a bit of reading and of course Google. Most people were doing it with rewiring jobs, where others were just installing them without doing anything.

 

Just looking for a centralized answer. Looks like new relays are necessary, and larger wires are recommended. And on my old rickety wiring, probably a must.

 

 

Thanks for the input.

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Not worried about the alt. Just replaced it this weekend to a newer model refurbished. Old one went tits up unfortunately, but gave a chance for an upgrade.

If you replaced with a stock alt your lights may still end up a bit dim.

 

Stock 521 alt is rated for like 35A.

Also, externally regulated.

 

 

I just swapped my stock alt for an IR alt from a 79 620. Went from 35A to 40A.

It was a bigger difference than you would think. Huge increase in output.

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I'd rather keep the 'stock' bulbs and plug setup if at all possible. I'm making a few upgrades, but when possible, I'm trying to keep stock....ish.

 

Granted, part of that went out the door with the heating system, so I might just say screw it and just update the whole system. This will all come when I sell one of my motorcycles, hopefully in the next week or 2, so we'll see.

 

And yes, I said ONE of my motorcycles, I currently have 6... Don't judge too hard, I use to have 9.

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The alternator is upgraded, good, problem one is out of the way.

 

Do not run higher wattage headlights through the stock 521 fusebox.  It is a weak point on a totally stock 521.

 

The stock headlight relay is about a foot away from the positive battery post on a 521.  Using a second relay, triggered by the stock headlight wiring to the stock headlight relay, allows you to take the headlight current load out of the stock 521 fusebox, and eliminate the voltage drop from the headlight current going into the cab, through several connectors, back out of the cab, and to the stock headlight relay.   This will work great if you replace the stock 37.5/50 watt headlight lamps (bulbs) with slightly higher wattage lamps, or replace only two of the four lamps. 

 

If you use anything less than 12 gauge wires for individual headlights, with higher power halogen lamps, you are wasting your time.  Most headlight relay kits you buy may not use as least 12 gauge wire, and again you are wasting your time.

 

Stock 521 headlights are grounded by the wiring harness, back to the voltage regulator.  They are not grounded by sheet metal, on the core support.  A significant increase in headlight wattage will require upgrading the ground wiring, as well as the positive side of the headlight wiring.  

 

If you do a minor wattage upgrade to the 521 headlights, just add a second relay to power the stock 521 headlight relay, removing the headlight current out of the stock 521 fusebox.  This method runs headlight current through two relays, but is still better than running headlight current through the fusebox, and in and out of the cab.

 

If you go to much higher wattage lamps, you can use the output of the stock headlight relay to trigger two added relays, the KC 3300 relay, using one added relay for the low beams, and the other added relay for the high beams.

 

If you go to 100 watt (off road) each lamps, the ground side of the headlights will require an upgrade.  But you will need to upgrade the ground on only two of the four headlights.  Run the extra 12 gauge ground wire back to the voltage regulator mount.

 

I have done a full halogen swap on a 521, using Cibie replacements.  I used the 55/60 watt low/high lamp, and the 55 watt high only lamp.  This puts out a lot more light than a stock headlamp 521.  Be careful with off brand headlight replacements.  The reflector, and the lens is more important on a headlight, than the wattage.

 

Tell me the wattage of the lamps you want to use.  I can also give you all the details on how to wire the added relays, if you need.

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Most cars, Banzi is right. 

Because the stock headlight relay is located in an almost ideal location, right next to the battery, on  a 521, I really think just getting the KC 3300 relay from Summit, a fuse holder, about 5 feet of wire, and a few connectors is a better option, on a 521.

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"Upgrade" to halogens?

 

Can you even GET non-halogen bulbs anymore?  Unless you're talking replacing the sealed beams with H4 housings, there's no difference in wattage between a Sealed beam incandescent and a sealed-beam halogen.  I've run sealed-beam halogens in my Datsuns since forever.  The only non-halogens are the original factory high beams that just haven't burned out yet.

 

The difference of course is wattage- if you replace the 35W sealed beam with a 35W halogen you'll be fine.  If you replace it with a 50 or 55W one, not so fine.  Honestly, though, replacing the stock 521 relay with a more modern setup will probably help with brightness no matter what you do.

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Well, take a look at say Oreillies. They show 2 different bulb types, sealed beam and halogen.

 

Yes the wattages are the same, but it's my understanding halogen requires more amps. That's actually why I was checking in the first place.

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The difference of course is wattage- if you replace the 35W sealed beam with a 35W halogen you'll be fine.  If you replace it with a 50 or 55W one, not so fine.  Honestly, though, replacing the stock 521 relay with a more modern setup will probably help with brightness no matter what you do.

 

Hmmm bet that was the problem. I put halogen lamps in my 521 back in the mid 70s and the fuse blew driving down the road in the dark. Got the 4 way on fast and got slowed down. Yes like other young members who are into short cuts.... I simply upgraded the fuse by 5 amps and that fixed the problem. Yes, this is a bad idea.

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