Humboldt Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 I have a 72 goon with a donor motor. There is an oddball 3 1/2" bolt holding the water pump on with a 10mm head that appears to be broken off 3" in the block.There must be a piece still in the block. I can't get the thing to thread on. How bad to just leave this bolt off or plug with a short bolt crammed in? The water pump with the fan clutch that you can't tear apart has that same long bolt, so I am assuming that is the correct bolt. Sorry no pix. I am trying to figure out the pix protocol, which I seem to have figured out before, so maybe soon Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 I've got a pump in my garage with the same issue. Threads snapped off somewhere. If yours is snapped in the block... that could be tough. I think you could get away without that bolt honestly. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Yup, me too, the original L16 motor from my dime has a bolt snapped too...I got it somewhere... 1 Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 I hate to say it but I was secretly hoping someone would have some sage advice like " smear a 9 penny nail with JB Weld and cram it in and call it good." LOL but cryin on the inside. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Id say find a different donor motor. That bolt holds the water pump to the timing cover, but also helps hold the timing cover to the block right next to the water port and the oil pump port to the block. Leaks here could suck You could pull the timing cover, drill a hole in the bolt, lube and use an 'easy out' bit. Name can be a bit misleading. If you plan to go the JB weld route, of suggest cleaning the surfaces that mates timing cover and block well and use good gasket and 'the right stuff' silicone to insure no leakage 3 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 I alwasys use anti seize on them bolts from now on. Get a sheet metal screw and hope it graps just enough. Really it needs only 5-10 pounds maybe partially tap the block to put a shorter bolt in there. Might need to upsize the water pump hole 1 Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 So I tapped the hole to M8 1.25 with a Harbor Freight tap and die set. Got about 3/4" inch in and met with a little resistance, so I backed off. That's how deep of a bolt I will use. I.m not going to torque any harder than Percy Dovetonsils would. I liked your suggestion Hainz . . . I am going to try this tapped hole first. My son tells me the water pump bearing feels like a bad skate board bearing, so I will replace the water pump. Any suggestions for sourcing a decent water pump, anyone? I'm not into filing shit off ( cuz it rubs) as described somewhere in Ratsun. Also, and thank you for tolerating my questions . . . given the anticipated low torquage, should I use lock tite? PS: sounds like the stock lengthy skinny bolt was prone to shearing off when removing it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Atsugi Manufactured is the best(stock). I seem then in "Paurant" pakage boxes or soemthing close to it But harder to find now. Most are the GMB brand which is still made in Japan. Anything else china dont buy 2 Quote Link to comment
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