That4doorKiD Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Lose your '75-'77 intake and get an earlier L16/18 or a later '78-'80 L20B one. I do have one on my L-16, it has two holes on each side of the intake running coolant through it. The picture of the manifold on the hot pink car up above is my Dad's. Just using his to position my setup 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 You will need to have a place for the water to go. Usually it Tees into the by-pass pipe coming out of the thermostat housing and going down over the front of the engine to the lower rad hose entry into the water pump. AND you need to drill two 3/8" holes in the head. I just recently did this with my '76 engine. I now have L16 cast iron header and '79 620 truck intake. Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted June 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2016 My head and intake already have the water coolant inlets, I know this for a fact lol Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted June 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2016 This thing couldn't have came out any more perfect!!, just need o shorten all the oil return shinanigans. Turbo is positoned so perfect! :thumbup: :devil: Heat Shield definitely going on my turbo so I won't bake those brake lines. 1 Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted June 11, 2016 Report Share Posted June 11, 2016 You need a brace under that turbo so you don't rip the manifold apart 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 11, 2016 Report Share Posted June 11, 2016 You need a brace under that turbo so you don't rip the manifold apart This. And quick. B) Quote Link to comment
Anonymous Waffle Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Are you going to clean up those welds? I'm guessing this is just mock-up right now. 2 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Are you going to clean up those welds? I'm guessing this is going to end badly. I fixed it for you bro. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsun 160J SSS Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 for sure brace up that turbo it will crack that header .trust me ..lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Anonymous Waffle Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Just to be honest, this is just my useless opinion, but I would have just saved up money and bought a cartech or rayjay turbo kit and worked on that. Would have been "nostalgic" and still turbo fun. But thats my opinion, goodluck on engineering your turbo system 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Sell me your intake manifold after this whole project fails........ By the way, some benificial info, in case you actually make a turbo manifold that doesn't fall apart. HKS used to make a black box called an EGC, which stood for Electronic Governer Control. The name really didn't fit what it did. It was an ignition timing retard that had a pressure sensor, and would retard timing as boost came up. The dash mount black box had knobs to set rate of retard. You then just timed the engine to factory spec.s, and let the EGC control timing durring boost. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I applaud the effort to learn this stuff, regardless of the life expectancy. I personally can't say I've built an exhaust manifold or turbo manifold, so I think it's great. That being said, no reason to ignore some simple fantastic. Add the brace. 2 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted June 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 I fixed it for you bro. End Badly? the worst can go wrong is my headgasket blowing out, my pistons frying, or my rings wearing out. Big deal, I'll just swap another L-motor in there that I already have. If it does go out in a short enough time, big deal I'll build one, or heck even sell it I don't know what point you have on my thread just giving me bad feedback. As I stated already, I'm doing this for fun not to run 20 PSI on my L-16. You just trying to troll...you have that much time ? Fuck off Just to be honest, this is just my useless opinion, but I would have just saved up money and bought a cartech or rayjay turbo kit and worked on that. Would have been "nostalgic" and still turbo fun. But thats my opinion, goodluck on engineering your turbo system Well a big interest in boosting my L-16 was to do it myself to go through this experience and build it out creativity, and second to do it cheap :thumbup: Yes just my mock up stage, the flange has my ugly ass welds on it, but going to clean it up, and seal it today hopefully. 3 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 I, for one, applaud your effort. In my mind it is more noble to try, and to fuck up, and to learn from your mistakes and rectify them, than to be an armchair engineer. It's also nice when things work out as planned...... 2 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 Pull your head out of your ass kid, it's dark in there and it stinks. The worst that could happen with your abortion of a setup is burning your car to the fucking ground, not just a head gasket. Try not being a little punk and look at advice from people with much more life and car experience than yourself. All of us telling you to be careful and warning about your pos mild steel header aren't just being assholes, there's been many people given you legit advice and you have an excuse for it all. Frankly, It's alarming that your parents aren't putting a stop to this. Note I never said I hope it will end badly but I firmly believe it will. I hope head gasket or detonation is the worst that will happen. Do yourself a favor and take one piece of legit advice: get a large fire extinguisher...just in case. Final thought, this is ratsun and no one is going to wear kid gloves especially when it's a matter of safety. Good luck. Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 I don't see what all the hate is about. It looks better than the first turbo manifold I ever made. It's not going to last too long before it comes apart (it's going to crack where it meets the head flange on the ends by cyl 1 and 4) but it will get you through the testing phase. Other than the fact that it looks like you welded it with 2 car batteries and a coat hanger, I don't see it being inherently dangerous if you take the normal safety precautions like heat shielding your fuel and brake lines and carrying a D.O.T. fire extenguisher rated for gasoline fires. I don't think you would be taking so much shit if your welds looked better. You DO need to brace that turbo to the block or at least run a chain from the turbo to the block so it doesn't hit the frame when it inevitably breaks off. Maybe you should run without a hood so you can see it happen. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 My head and intake already have the water coolant inlets, I know this for a fact lol Not in your pictures. The U67 head has to be drilled. Where does the water come out on that Offy intake? 1 Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 It's a 68 sedan!! And looks like you have 2 of them. Is that correct? Looking good on the Turbo build. Good luck and hopes you'll finish it. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 End Badly? the worst can go wrong is my headgasket blowing out, my pistons frying, or my rings wearing out. Big deal, I'll just swap another L-motor in there that I already have. If it does go out in a short enough time, big deal I'll build one, or heck even sell it I don't know what point you have on my thread just giving me bad feedback. As I stated already, I'm doing this for fun not to run 20 PSI on my L-16. You just trying to troll...you have that much time ? Fuck off Well a big interest in boosting my L-16 was to do it myself to go through this experience and build it out creativity, and second to do it cheap :thumbup: Yes just my mock up stage, the flange has my ugly ass welds on it, but going to clean it up, and seal it today hopefully. Clearly you haven't seen enough turbo fails to realize that your car can end up consumed by a raging fire storm and you being severly burned or worse....dead....we're looking out for you kid... 2 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 your car can end up consumed by a raging fire storm and you being severly burned or worse....dead.... Isn't this every L series? :rofl: 3 Quote Link to comment
Anonymous Waffle Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 Isn't this every L series? :rofl: Well my SU's got caught on fire when I got in my accident, so anything goes :) At least we dont drive vw bugs Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 My dads a VW guy, I'm gonna order us some of these stickers 3 Quote Link to comment
Dustydukes Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 Not in your pictures. The U67 head has to be drilled. Where does the water come out on that Offy intake? From what I can tell he is using a different car with a different head for mock up. Better than putting his daily down until he is ready to install, I suppose Quote Link to comment
Dustydukes Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 I don't see what all the hate is about. It looks better than the first turbo manifold I ever made. It's not going to last too long before it comes apart (it's going to crack where it meets the head flange on the ends by cyl 1 and 4) but it will get you through the testing phase. Other than the fact that it looks like you welded it with 2 car batteries and a coat hanger, I don't see it being inherently dangerous if you take the normal safety precautions like heat shielding your fuel and brake lines and carrying a D.O.T. fire extenguisher rated for gasoline fires. I don't think you would be taking so much shit if your welds looked better. You DO need to brace that turbo to the block or at least run a chain from the turbo to the block so it doesn't hit the frame when it inevitably breaks off. Maybe you should run without a hood so you can see it happen. 4door This. Fire extenguisher and brace the turbo. And you probably will want to build stronger headers at some point. Other than that, it's more than ever did with my car at that point in my life. So good on ya. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I dunno about those welds combo'd with the thin pipe, man They are prolly going to burst faster than Dollymite when he sees some ankle action. 1 Quote Link to comment
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