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Noob Turbo L-16 from Hell


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Have you considered EFI on the L20b plus turbo?, That would rock pretty good ;)

YES

YES I HAVE. I totally wanna go EFI now, I want to run more boost and now I am limited to under 7psi because of my needle and seat size(would mean more fuel pressure also). I have a lean spot also when transitioning into boost if I drive it calmly. Unless I romp on the throttle and put the pedal down, my carb does perfect and no bogging or lean. I'm thinking it's cause the turbo is so huge and spools up like at 3k rpm.

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I need help to go EFI guys!

 

Due to the better capabilities of EFI, I'm looking to move forward with it!  I was thinking of ITBs injection and make a plenum for them to push boost through. ITB/plenum combo what I'm thinking because I need to work around the turbo, it would be in the way of the standard position people set up their throttle body

 

 

 

I have an L-20b in the shop right now getting bored to 2.3L i think it was .040" or 1mm? but crank getting turned also and oil ports enlarged. Fresh stock block with ARP studs will hold up for some nice power.

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Okay so I was thinking more today.... has anyone used the side draft manifolds and machine injector ports on them? I was thinking of just buying a side draft manifold and make a throttle body for it, worked around my set up.  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWIN-WEBER-DCOE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-FITS-DATSUN-510-610-710-L-SERIES-DUAL-DCOE-/361919022120

 

Another option would be buying the bolt on side draft pattern ITBs with injectors. But that's so expensive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THROTTLE-BODY-INJECTION-45DCOE-EFI-bare-TB-unit-Weber-Gemini-Escort-Datsun-BMW/272729975281?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D7a124245790847d6aebd8869a6228dc1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D282527814519

 

I really don't want to make another manifold, but if I have to I will :yawn:

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Bolts for mounting to the head are in the way of the injectors. L28 intakes solve this but a lot of work cutting out the middle two cylinders and welding it back together. If you make your own intake you can put a single bolt hole between the injectors  for mounting it. Any throttle body will do.

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Bolts for mounting to the head are in the way of the injectors. L28 intakes solve this but a lot of work cutting out the middle two cylinders and welding it back together. If you make your own intake you can put a single bolt hole between the injectors  for mounting it. Any throttle body will do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both of these ideas look really great. I will see the cost of machine work to get injector ports done, and figure out a way to make the center bolt hole on each side.

The single point injection looks super budget friendly and was thinking about that exact idea but, I'm afraid it won't be as accurate as MPI to tune with boost.

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Love the setup kid, I was going to chime in and say I ran a Turbo in my 510 in each L16, L18, L20B as I thought I was upgrading going larger.

 

It actually didnt get any better as you higher up in displacement by larger crank throws and overbore blocks, they actually flex alot and cause micro-fractures with boost.

 

For a wild motor, the L16 setup for high boost was the cheapest and more fun of them all.

 

Also you can destroke the L16 and increase boost more, and still cost less than anything else as simple.

 

Next step is a KA24 3 valve truck (carb and EFI) motor or a KA24DE DOHC motor, they are a bit more stronger. Not sure if your ready for a SR20DE or RB yet :P

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I'm wondering what happened myself..... maybe he found a complete Z20E or Z24E engine, stole the head off it, swapped onto his L, hooked up Megasquirt ECU, custom turbo, and all is well :)  That was an idea I had doing awhile back. So I would run 1 set of plugs for spark and custom fab the other set for direct injection.

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No such animal as a Z24E or head. The Z22E 200sx head or Z22S head from a truck are the same, have injector notches and will fit onto the Z24 block..... but just easier to put a rag down the port of a Z24 head and make your own notches with a burr..

 

The Z series head is a cross flow head and radically different than the L. For one the combustion chambers are 12 cc larger and the compression will take a shit. To begin with, the L series heads will flow much better.

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In my mind I was thinking Z24 EFI but should have said Z24i for the EFI top end of the later '86 Nissan trucks.

 

I figured the cross-flow design and larger chambers with a Turbo would be a huge plus, its being forced through so naturally flow will be much different than naturally aspirated, which I would then slap an L head on the Z block.

 

But the L and Z still have limitations, best to go newer stronger blocks and parts for power adding with SEFI and turbo support.  

 

SR20DE would be my default choice for aftermarket upgrade or whatever you can get your hands on for a budget build till it blows really.

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 Even an open chamber L head from an L20B will drop the L16 compression to 7.6.

 

A Z24 head with 12 more cc will drop it into the basement. (roughly 6.6) Low compression engines are very inefficient and only run well while boosting. Part throttle will run like a sick dog. 

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Nope never would give up B)  But my dogleg 5 speed did ! I went to a car meet a few weeks ago and was driving aggressively all night with a little racing here and there hehe, did my last burnout under a freeway tunnel and my freakin' tranny blew!

 

Need money to go EFI and replace the whole drivetrain now !

 

Parts List and Mods to go:

 

ARP l20b rod bolts

ARP l20b Main Studs

Stock Pistons .030 over

Gasket Kit

EFI Manifold

TIG MACHINE from eBay

Header Flange - make another manifold to clear for exhaust/EFI too

Megasquirt 2 or 3 

Injectors

3 inch mandrel exhaust

stage 2 clutch

5 speed tranny 

 

Planning to do everything on the list myself. I really want to make this thing reliable and to daily. Can't wait til I tune it and add 2 step and the antilag :devil: !!! 

 

I might hold off on the EFI because of how expensive it will be. If I don't get any offers when I put on CL or eBay I'll know. Then, I will keep my carb set up and clean up with a bigger fuel pump, lines, intercooler+piping and radiator, just make the carb set up very reliable.

 

On top of that I'll have a freshly rebuilt L-20b. I have alot of parts to sell, and also was thinking of just doing SR20 pistons with a .040 bore since the block is still at the shop. But they already finished the work. I literally have to pick it up for my last 20$ deposit lmao.

 

Still need to weld and put together my 280zx struts :crying:

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Don't toss the dogleg if you remove it!

 

I'd take it, if you weren't so far away.

second time it has broken hehe

 

 

 

Anyone know if I can use Sr20 rods in an l20b? I need forged pistons and gonna buy SR20 pistons if they can fit. 

 

My L20b is .030 over, I'm willing to pay the shop again to go over to 86mm. I read somewhere on the 510 realm that sr20 rods are the same height as L20b rods. But are the bottom large ends the same. 

 

Also read about this guys L20b rod combo with SR pistons but I don't know the details or much about [pin height]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/1793-my-73-620-t/

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