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78 810 coilover?


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#21 datzenmike

datzenmike
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 12 April 2016 - 02:51 PM

Well it won't look the same but it will do the same thing. Unless you adjust your ride height several times a week why tie up so much money? Lets face it, you are going to find the ride height you like, (it might take a couple of tries) but then, you'll never adjust it again and all that money is just going for a ride and doing absolutely ....nothing. Like a super model girlfriend.... looks great... does nothing.

 

Of course, you would have to do some small amount of work, but then, you would have to anyway, to put those things on. If you enjoy working on your car it's perfect and you can tell everyone you did it yourself and how.

 

 

With luck those struts have the original oil filled dampers still. The hydraulic oil is very thin and watery. Replacing the oil with motorcycle fork oil that is thicker will turn them into a firmer heavy duty absorber. I did this by using Bel-Ray 20W fork oil on my Maxima strut swap. Thicker is harder to push through the internal valves and you get to keep the original compression and rebound ratios, just firmer. It comes in a variety of thicknesses and is how motorcycle suspensions are tuned.

 

Just saying there are lots of ways to get where you want to go, and it doesn't have to cost a lot.

 

 

 

 

That $900 would buy you some nice rims or tires, brakes and a larger sway bar, ....


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#22 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 12 April 2016 - 03:10 PM

It's not really a budget build or a daily driver, the problem I have with using the stock struts is as soon as I go as low as I want to go the struts will be bottoming out.  I typically corner balance all of my cars as well, and adjust the suspension literally constantly, I'm not quite your typical ratsun owner, I've built quite a few pretty serious cars from track cars to "stanced cars" (stanced cars have all been within reason and still very functional, my definition of stanced isnt quite what these retards are doing these days lol), the 810 is also going rb25 in the near future so once again with the weight change the suspension will again need to be readjusted.  Also with a standard coilover not only can I adjust dampening I can swap spring rates easily as well.

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#23 RedBanner

RedBanner
  • Location:Vancouver washington
  • Cars:body dropped photina ratrod v8 710 4 door convertable

Posted 12 April 2016 - 08:36 PM

you might get alot more help with a different approach, the " i build racecars for a living, only the best, i know what im doing!" is not meshing with your "can i use this stuff, from a completely different car on my car?" questions.

your struts have built in insert tubes welded to the spindle, no lower adjustment, no clamp on hub/spindle. there is no bolt on fan boy kit to help you "build" your car. you have to go out to your car, remove the wheel (with tools) and get in there and check it out. pretty simple compared to some of those other cars.

as for the rb swap.... you couldn't get the bumper off, I have doubts bro, but cool story.


I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#24 Lockleaf

Lockleaf
  • Location:Happy Valley, Utah
  • Cars:'71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '05 Saabaru 92x, '07 Saab Trollblazer 97x

Posted 12 April 2016 - 09:03 PM

Are the struts the correct size to drop jetta/rabbit inserts into? Those are almost 4 inches shorter than 280zx I believe. Or mr2 or whatever other options guys are using.

What's the benefit of corner balancing a street car, unless you street race?

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#25 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:26 AM

Cool, way to keep members, Im done here, way to sound like a 16 year old obnoxious s13 owner, I remember when it was cool to act like that like 13 years ago when I bought my first 240, I really expected more. If youve ever asked yourself why the scene has died well just look at yourself. You ever think maybe I have done all my own research and measuring? Ever think gee it's a fucking 810 no one has actually done shit to them thats well documented online, only an idiot jumps into something without learning from other people's mistakes.

#26 datzenmike

datzenmike
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:48 AM

as a racecar builder it should be pretty easy to fit the sx stuff you want to run.

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you might get alot more help with a different approach, the " i build racecars for a living, only the best, i know what im doing!" is not meshing with your "can i use this stuff, from a completely different car on my car?" questions.

your struts have built in insert tubes welded to the spindle, no lower adjustment, no clamp on hub/spindle. there is no bolt on fan boy kit to help you "build" your car. you have to go out to your car, remove the wheel (with tools) and get in there and check it out. pretty simple compared to some of those other cars.

as for the rb swap.... you couldn't get the bumper off, I have doubts bro, but cool story.

 

It might just be me, but I'm starting to see a trend here banner.

 

Maybe a bit more positive with the comments? Or diplomatic? Or none.


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#27 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 05:21 AM

Kinda thought ratsun would be the last place to judge everyone's shit, is he sure he isnt stuck in 2005 and thinking this is zilvia?

#28 Boundish

Boundish
  • Location:Norway
  • Cars:79 datsun 810 wagon 4sp , 85 peugeot 505 turbo 5sp

Posted 13 April 2016 - 05:38 AM

whats with the bashing?  .  Im with him on coilovers becuse stock struts will bottom out when you go that low.

 

In norway its illegal to cut your springs, beacuse they are not (according to the rulemakers at least)  stiff enough to work properly when cut thus bottoming out the strut.



#29 datzenmike

datzenmike
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 13 April 2016 - 06:44 AM

A coil spring become stiffer when shortened. It will be shorter and thus closer to bottoming out, yes..

 

Coil overs themselves won't prevent bottoming out the strut they only allow easy changes in ride height adjustment. To go lower than the stock strut will allow you will have to replace the strut with an already shorter one or shorten the strut tube and use a shorter damper or insert inside.


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#30 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 06:48 AM

Most coilover cartrides spin down into the mount so you can adjust them to have zero loss of shock travel no matter how low you go.  I also ordered Megan's 280z full coilovers yesterday so we'll see how that goes.  Also with the style coilovers I want to run you can preload them as much as you want as well.



#31 RedBanner

RedBanner
  • Location:Vancouver washington
  • Cars:body dropped photina ratrod v8 710 4 door convertable

Posted 13 April 2016 - 01:07 PM

It might just be me, but I'm starting to see a trend here banner.

 

Maybe a bit more positive with the comments? Or diplomatic? Or none.

that was diplomatic. very informative, and also it made me laugh, ad boobs and it was a hat trick. perfect post.

trashy, if you truly need an apology to continue your task, then I'm sorry I hurt your feelings.


I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#32 datzenmike

datzenmike
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 13 April 2016 - 02:43 PM

Me? hell, I don't need an apology. My task, as I see it, is to have members get along. This isn't insomniacs, or any of your topics.... it's someone else's post (a new member actually) who is new and might not get your 'diplomatic' comments. So maybe just tread carefully or don't post at all. The alternative is me deciding how diplomatic your posts are.       


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#33 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 02:55 PM

Making fun of people is petty and doesnt help anything, I havent built a car for myself in probably 3 or 4 years now because I got tired of everyone acting childish, this should be about the love of the cars, not about judging everyone else, and no I wasnt posting bragging about myself I had to get defensive and defend myself when you started attacking me in my post. Ive long sense out grown the pride I had when I was younger and have no problems asking advice and admitting when I dont know something, like I said I prefer to learn from others mistakes rather than make them myself. I dont feel I need to defend myself on the bumper, however the bumper was hit when I bought the car, where it bolts on it creased around the mounts not letting it come off after it was unbolted. The mounts are bent, rather than pry it and risk damaging something I care about saving cutting seemed like a better option, as well as when I find the bumper I want to run I can straighten them and weld onto them. Everyone has different methods, who am I to judge what someone else does on their own car. Now that I've written this long winded unnecessary novel, I harbor no ill will, but lets keep this thread informative and helpful, there truely is very little information on early 810 suspension, I can measure all I want but unless I have measurements and parts to compare with those measurements really don't do anything, and spending hundreds possibly thousands of dollars on a whim of something you hope will work is never a good idea without solid evidence it will be close enough to working you can make it work. I did order the weld on 280z megan coilovers so I will post pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

#34 RedBanner

RedBanner
  • Location:Vancouver washington
  • Cars:body dropped photina ratrod v8 710 4 door convertable

Posted 13 April 2016 - 03:24 PM

I did order the weld on 280z megan coilovers so I will post pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

that would work a lot better. (a gave the suggestion on your fb post.) assuming your kit is good for the zx and not just the z. as the strut tubes are different lengths and diameters.


I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#35 datzenmike

datzenmike
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 13 April 2016 - 03:41 PM

I see you are after only a inch and a half drop. That's well withing the strut's ability and not going to bottom out no matter which method you use. We get lots of lowering here and I was thinking you wanted 4-5".


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#36 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 03:50 PM

Red banner, as for length I couldnt find anything one way or another but hoping they are close enough there is enough adjustability to correct, with the weld on application however I can make them lower or high in the front if needed, it appears the strut diameter is only about 1/4" off as far as my measurements and those I have found online have led me to so with being a weld on application thats close enough for me, like I said I do have a lathe so I can fudge a bit if needed to get a nice tight fit. I was considering doing the same thing using s13 coils, but these should have the correct rear tophats.

think that was someone else that posted that on fb, I'm after 4-5"

#37 RedBanner

RedBanner
  • Location:Vancouver washington
  • Cars:body dropped photina ratrod v8 710 4 door convertable

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:10 PM

i dont know what the rear top hats look like on a 4 door sedan, the length issue would be a problem if it interfears with the wheel, as the z car ones are 3 inches longer(aproxamatley) and the diameter issuewill facter in there as well.

you would want the same diameter front adjustment sleeves as the zx, or 510/610/710/210/b210/ excetra

a 1/4 inch wider threaded sleeve could limit your width and offset. for sure if its the longer adjuster

as in you will need to run -12 more offset then the guy with the zx adjustment sleeve, (not hard to find spacers) or a 1/2 narrower wheel if your keeping it in the fender.

but I think the megan ones are just single adjustable, so no prelaod settings are available unless you have them fully up. bc offers double adjustable kits (1200 bucks) and troy ermish has some, wich are probably the same ones idk for sure. but they limit ride height adjustment to around 2 inches. if you are adding preload.

your current struts, plus a 250bucks for threaded sleaves and a custom pring rate,  could be just as effective (and easier to use), and fit a wider wheel than the megan kit.


I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#38 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:39 PM

Sedan rear top hats are the 3 bolt style

From my measurements it appears the springs should sit above the tire so hopefully I will be good there, with the megans being adjustable without loosing strut travel being a weld on application I should be able to just shorten or extend the bottom tube for whatever height I will need, but hopefully none of that is going to be necessary

#39 datzenmike

datzenmike
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:40 PM

My mistake it was someone else posting in your thread.

 

All front strut tubes mentioned are 2"

 

4-5" of drop in not so good an idea with stock struts. Yes it can be done there is room but... There's no way around it, no matter what method you use to lower the body, the top hat will be 4-5" closer to the top of the strut tube. There has to be some suspension travel in order for the shock absorber to 'absorb' bumps and dips in the road. There has to be room to compress and expand and removing 4-5" reduces the compression distance. I would say this is going to be dangerously close to bottoming the top hat onto the top of the tube one day.

 

The usual (safe) drop on stock struts is a few inches and then a shorter strut or shortening the stock strut tube is advised. Even just a few inches, it's advisable to increase the spring rate.


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#40 Trashy

Trashy
  • Location:Hudson Florida
  • Cars:74 B210, 70 521, 93 RX7, 90 R32

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:45 PM

With these coilovers the strut threads down into the tube which will be welded to the knuckle allowing you to lower it without loosing any strut travel