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My latest engine swap


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#1 jfbrink

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 09:54 AM

Hi,
 
I thought I would share the engine swap that I recently completed. I got a Suzuki G13BB engine from 2001 Chevy Metro, bolted it to a 5-speed transmission from a 1987 Suzuki Samurai and mounted it in the car with custom brackets and three stock Samurai mounts. While I was at it, I re-plumbed and re-wired the entire car, from end to end.
 
The result is wonderful to drive. Super smooth and quiet at all speeds. I can actually listen to the RetroSound head unit I installed, now. The engine power/torque specs are almost identical to the stock 1.3L, but the engine/trans combo weight about 200lbs. less, and neither is 50 years old, so the car is much zippier and gets 35mpg around town.
 

 

411_swap_G13BB_engine_bay_complete.jpg

I made three short videos, which are linked below. I plan to put together a build page at some point, but in the meantime I'm happy to answer questions, here.
 

Engine Video

 

Interior Video

 

Trunk Video

 

 

 
 
 



#2 Draker

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 09:56 AM

Looks good man!
View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 72 1200 Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.. ish

http://drakers.pl510.info

#3 Lockleaf

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 10:54 AM

I feel like this should make me want to mock you, but it looks so clean, I can only applaud you. That is a smart swap for those little cars.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#4 jfbrink

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 11:29 AM

@Draker - Thanks!

 

@Lockleaf - I know, it all sounds ridiculous. Chevy Metro? Suzuki Samurai? Same power and torque as stock? On paper, I'm doing it wrong. But, for the cost of rebuilding my dead 50-year-old J13 sewing machine, I got a car that drives nicer than any of three cars the parts came from. It's like a Datsun 411 manufactured in 2001.

 

Mind you, as much as I love this swap, I'm putting a V-6 in my 411 wagon.

 

Jesse.



#5 flatcat19

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 11:33 AM

Hm. Interesting.

What made you think Geo Metro?
Any work need to mate the trans to the FWD motor?

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#6 thisismatt

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 11:33 AM

Can't knock it, looks really clean and well executed, and it could almost pass as stock to someone who didn't know better


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#7 jfbrink

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 04:29 PM

@flatcat19 - I spent a lot of time at the Pick-a-Part measuring engines. The engine bay in the 411 is super short. And, I am not interested in cast iron blocks, which ruled out a lot of options. Two engines I liked were the Suzuki G series and the GM Ecotec. Both are compact, but the Ecotec has a big protrusion in the block right where the steering box is. It also had the hassle of CANBUS delete and expensive RWD transmission options. That left the G13BB in the 1998-2001 Metro, which is OBD-II, but pre-CANBUS, and the Suzuki Samurai transmission simply bolts directly to it (with a Samurai flywheel, clutch and starter). Super easy and affordable. I got the engine, with ECU and harness for $232 at Pick-a-Part and the transmission with output shaft, starter plate and shifter for $200 off Craigslist.

 

@thisismatt - Thanks. I think it's kind of a pretty engine, and I tried to make it look like it belonged in there.



#8 MikeRL411

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 05:27 PM

Just out of curiousity, where did you hide the battery?  Also, any particular reason for relocationg the horns?  A very neat and thorough conversion!  Congratulations..



#9 flatcat19

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 06:19 PM

Well, I think the swap turned out great. Clean install.

Kudos.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#10 jfbrink

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 07:40 PM

@MikeRL411 - The battery is in the trunk -- a small AGM unit from a Miata -- with the cable running from a circuit breaker, up the C pillar, along the roof channel and down the A pillar. I moved the horns to clear the radiator, which is wider than stock.

 

Some arbitrary process photos....

 

1. The empty engine bay shows the small pocket I had to make to clear the cam angle sensor housing. The engine had plenty of room in front, but the transmission face would hit the steering cross shaft if I moved it farther forward. It also shows the two mounting pads I welded to the crossmember.

 

411_swap_g13bb_engine_bay_empty.jpg

 

2. I mounted the transmission by turning the stock 411 trans crossmember upside down and welding a custom pad to it that fits the oddly-shaped stock Suzuki Samurai mount.

 

411_swap_g13bb_trans_mount.jpg

 

3. This is a 96/97 Geo Tracker oil pan extensively modified to clear the 411 crossmember and steering rod. It still has sufficient capacity below the anti-aeration plate.

 

411_swap_g13bb_engine_pan_mods.jpg

 

4. Cooling hose layout was tough, as this is one of those modern engines that expects constant flow through the heater lines. The valve shown provides that flow without sending continuous water through the heater core the way most modern cars do.

 

411_swap_g13bb_cooling_hose_layout.jpg

 

5. Although the "hot" water outlet is out the back of the block on the G13BB as installed in the Chevy Metro, the block has an outlet in the front, which is how it is routed as a G13B in the Suzuki Samurai. Since I had very little room in the back, I modified my intake manifold to make use of the front outlet, with a tube and face that the stock Chevy Metro thermo housing bolts to.

 

411_swap_g13bb_cooling_intake_mod.jpg

 

6. Just a cool hook loop I made for the front right of the engine. The stock loop wouldn't fit with my new coolant outlet.

 

411_swap_g13bb_engine_hook.jpg

 

7. The Suzuki Samurai has a cable clutch, so I made a bracket, and push rod adapter to allow the use of a 510 clutch slave and master.

 

411_swap_g13bb_clutch_slave_bracket.jpg

 

8. The fuel injection pump required a sump, which I successfully approximated by locating the pump pick-up in a sunken part of the stock tank and adding a baffle panel. The little panel mounts to a threaded hole I tapped into the BSPT plug I used to seal the stock fuel outlet bung. You can also see in the lower right that I had to clearance the top of the stock baffles to accommodate the Honda fuel pump carrier.

 

411_swap_g13bb_fuel_tank_baffle.jpg

 

That's it for now...

 

Jesse.



#11 Lockleaf

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 08:26 PM

More please. Very neat stuff going on here

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#12 MikeRL411

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 09:17 PM

Innovative and very sucessful modification!  Let's keep these jewels on the road!  I hope you used a Marine sealed container to house the trunk mounted battery!



#13 Draker

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 11:10 PM

More more more!
View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 72 1200 Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.. ish

http://drakers.pl510.info

#14 Swedishcadillac

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 05:34 PM

Looks clean! What V6 are you planning for the wagon?
Had to be Datsun, a wagon, stick and RWD.


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#15 ppeters914

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 10:06 AM

Looks clean! What V6 are you planning for the wagon?

 

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know since my 411 wagon currently has no engine/trans. Was thinking the easiest option is an R16. I have an RL411 front cross-member, but the engine mounts are unobtanium and different than a roadster, so would have to fabricate something. Was also thinking KA.


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#16 MikeRL411

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 05:00 PM

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know since my 411 wagon currently has no engine/trans. Was thinking the easiest option is an R16. I have an RL411 front cross-member, but the engine mounts are unobtanium and different than a roadster, so would have to fabricate something. Was also thinking KA.

 

And the driver side and passenger side are different lengths!  Suggestion, put a "wanted" in the classified.  Tana or Erich just might have a pair in their parts pile!  If you can find a worn out set, a tire recapping place just might be willing to vulcanize a replacement rubber mount set.



#17 Swedishcadillac

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 06:30 PM

I have a set of good condition used E1 motor mounts for what it's worth... Sorry for the threadjack jfbrink!
Had to be Datsun, a wagon, stick and RWD.


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#18 difrangia

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 06:10 AM

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know since my 411 wagon currently has no engine/trans. Was thinking the easiest option is an R16. I have an RL411 front cross-member, but the engine mounts are unobtanium and different than a roadster, so would have to fabricate something. Was also thinking KA.

 

When motor/trany mounts turn out to be Unobtanium, this might be of help to someone with moderate manual skills and commonsense:

 

http://www.nicoclub....sion-mount.html


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#19 jfbrink

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 01:20 PM

@SwedishCadillac, et al. - I'm sorry, I replied about the V6 weeks ago, but I must have never clicked "Post". I'm using a 1.8L Mazda K8 V-6, the little brother to the more famous KL-DE 2.5L V-6. It was an upgrade option in Mazda MX-3s. I'm building a custom intake (really just an aluminum box) and running it with a MegaSquirt ECU from Stratified. For transmission, I'm going with a JATCO 4N71B four-speed A/T, sourced from a second gen RX-7, to give me a rear-facing starter. I've designed a 1/2" adapter plate to join the engine and transmission. I was going to use a Miata 5-speed, but my vision for this build became making the wagon a cruiser. I will probably even put A/C in it, if I can fit a Vintage Air mini unit up in that tiny dash space (I think I can). Here is the engine sitting in my mock-up car:

 

411_swap_k8_fitment_1.jpg

 

@difrangia, et al. - On the topic of motor mounts, I've cast a few of my own, and I've had "professionals" cast them for me, and the durometer (hardness) is a real issue. The stock ones appear to have been about 50/55A and I've found the 411 is very sensitive to anything harder than that. By "sensitive" I mean it's a crappy, vibrating, rattling mess at all RPM with harder mounts.



#20 difrangia

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 02:28 PM

jfbrink,

 Thanks for that durometer figure on the mount rubber compound. I'll plug that into my data storage with the stored casting thread.

 

Steve


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