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90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor


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#41 Icehouse

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 10:24 PM

That was a good read. :) I soldered the ecu wires and crimp any power wires. I don't think you would like my solders after reading that. I use the torch style soldering iron..... You know the one, huge flame.... I strip the wires with the fire :) haha I do.... I don't gob the solder though. I'm always thinking to myself, "the ecu needs exact voltages, don't mess it up." and the lobs make the black tape fat. With every swap I get fancier. The crappy thing about wires is they are the last before you can drive it, aka always rushed.

P.S. I'm down for the soldering class, I say we all got to kevins house and learn!

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#42 mklotz70

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 10:35 AM

LOL!! Just got caught up on this thread. Slodat is the new Hainz!! :) j/k!!

I used to do a bunch of stereo work. One of the best places I've found to buy connectors and electrical supplies is http://www.tiewraps.com/ .

Granted if you only need a couple, it's not worth it, but I ordered 100 of each and I'm almost out of several of them.

As for using a torch on bigger cables....I've done it before, but I don't recommend it at all! It oxidizes the surface of the conductor which is not a good thing when trying for the best joint. They make crimpers for batt terminals...I think I paid about $20. It small anvil type unit that you can either squeeze with a vise/press, or hit with a big hammer. I just saw them available at the last swap meet I went to a couple of weeks ago.

Your soldering iron needs to be sized to the wire you're working with. The bigger the wire, the bigger the iron since the wire acts as a heat sink and cools a smaller iron to quickly to flow the solder well enough. Also....don't use a soldering gun on any electronics. The current runs through the tip of the gun to create the heat. With a soldering iron, the heating element is inside the shaft of the iron and only makes a mechanical contact with the tip.

I agree with slodat.....you can solder auto wiring, but it's not necessary and if done wrong, makes matters worse. Home stereo stuff has everything wired because it all just sits on a shelf. The automotive enviroment has way too much vibration and movement. Like he said, the wire will break up inside the insulation. It's called the "coat hanger effect". Bend a coat hanger back and forth and it will break. Same thing can happen to the wiring...even with small movement.

I'd like to see some soldering how to's on here :) I started soldering wire sculptures when I was about 11.....so about 32 years.....since I've been in the electronics field for over 20. I'm at the grunt level.....no engineer here!! :) Yesterday I could barely spell technician....today I are one!!
Don't have to be too bright to be me!! :D
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#43 mklotz70

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 10:35 AM

geez....does this forum log you out quick or what?!!!
Don't have to be too bright to be me!! :D
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#44 slodat

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 11:10 AM

My soldering credentials came from the Navy's "3M Micro and Miniature Soldering and Repair". We had to make repairs that were either better than the board came from the OEM or repairs that were not detectable under a microscope. We did stuff like multi-layer excavation on flex prints and then build back up, same concept with conformal coatings, replace a section of a board that was blown out - multi layer board no less, that sort of thing. Of course this is a HUGE extreme, but I learned a ton. It was about 16 weeks of training, most of which under a magnifier or microscope. In the end, I learned how to do the kind of thing we are talking about very well.

Which is why I'm willing to show whatever I learned to interested parties. It has been a while - 10 years actually, since I was in the school. But I use the knowledge often.

Anyway...

#45 Icehouse

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 01:16 PM

You guys are making me worry.. Dam... I will be really good at diagnosing problems.


Yeah mike this page does log you off fast... I guess its just that classy.

I do want to take your class slodat. Even though it might be to late.

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#46 mklotz70

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 04:47 PM

It's been a bit longer than that for me and the training wasn't quite as intense. I did High Reliability soldering on 7 layer boards.....but this was back the days of the micro stuff. At that time, the IBM AT was the king of the hill in computers :) Like riding a bike....I can still ride it but I'm no Lance Armstrong :)
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#47 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 11:30 PM

I too am down for your class...where do I signup :D

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#48 oregondime

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 09:06 PM

man oh man i just finally got caught up on this thread, WOW!! lol, yes i did spend $400 on my hids, but they do have a cutoff point so i know where they might possibly blind people, theyre fitted inside oem bmw stuff (not a wide open normal h4 headlight like hondas have). so basically its like a nice bright bulb, ive even pretended i was an oncoming car just to see if id blind the shit out of me the opposing driver, i can still see :) and i hate wiring so ill be quiet there.. and look at the other thread if you want to see the cutoff or anything...

#49 slodat

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 09:31 PM

Hey Corey! This thread wasn't targeted at anyone, not even you :)

#50 oregondime

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 09:47 PM

my feelings werent hurt :) i just figured id make a good argument for the hid side of things here. i for one get a chubby when i see cool colored lights on my car, and like i think zuum said, led taillights, oh yeah lit up like a xmas tree. thats as custom as a custom can get customed without some semi truck led lights lol

#51 datzenmike

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 09:52 PM

I never thought you were talking about any particular members of this forum.

anway... the main power wires I'm using I believe are 10 gauge. Maybe a bit too big.
The relays are 30 amp and I have one for each headlight. So each bulb has its own 10 gauge wire. I removed the clip off the back of the bulb and soldered the larger wire directly to the clip and replaced it. I left the factory ground wire in place on the bulb. The relays are grounded to the car right by where they are mounted at the battery. Smaller ground wires but only about 5-6 inches long. Both relays are powered off of a power distribution block right by the battery. The relays are triggered by a smaller wire run from the factory 280ZX headlights.

(looking for pic....)


Shouldn't the ground (even if it is short) be up graded as well? The lighting circuit is limited to only what will pass through the tiny factory gage wire to ground.

#52 Bleach

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 11:32 PM

...that's something to think about :D
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#53 slodat

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 01:34 AM

i mentioned the grounds previously in the thread...

#54 spiffinspudater

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Posted 18 September 2007 - 07:52 AM

... I think we got off topic in here? I understand the importance of wiring and doing things correctly, however I am one of those guys that Slodat mentioned... The reason I ask so many questions and bug so many people, is even after I do research (what I am looking at this thread for) I still am confused and am afraid of screwing up my truck. Granted, I bought some ebay special lights for my truck and they are pretty when I flip the brights switch, but all my lights cut out for a second then come back. I plan to do the relays, but someone mentioned a bigger amp first. I was looking in here to see what kind of alt I should get that would be an easy bolt on. I have no welding or, well, any other skills. So bolt on is easiest for me. I guess, to get back on topic.

Is there a GOOD internaly regulated (best?) high amp (90+) Alternator that even I can bolt onto my l20b?

Bosch is crap, no?

I need to figure out the wireing and electrical stuff before I make any new additions, but knowing that I would have enough power would make me feel better before upgrading everything else.
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#55 datzenmike

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Posted 18 September 2007 - 11:20 AM

The Bosch isn't crap exactly, I picked it by asking a wrecking yard these questions... who makes a 90 amp (or more) alt. that doesn't wear out or nothing goes wrong with so nobody wants one, is pleantiful and cheap. They immediarely said the Chrysler Bosch unit. No one ever comes in for them so they aren't worth much. I got my '88 K car one for $30 I thiink. The nut and pully from the L series fit right on and replaces the Bosch serpentine pulley.

The drawback is that they aren't internally regulated, so I grabbed one of the old style Dodge fender mounted regulators and wired it up and it works fine.

I do admit, if I knew what I know now I would have done it diffferent I think.
Posted Image

#56 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 07:14 AM

... I think we got off topic in here?
Is there a GOOD internaly regulated (best?) high amp (90+) Alternator that even I can bolt onto my l20b?

I need to figure out the wireing and electrical stuff before I make any new additions, but knowing that I would have enough power would make me feel better before upgrading everything else.



THe 90's Saturn alternator bolts onto the stock L alternator bracket. You'll need the zx water inlet (it's angled for clearance) and a v groove pulley. I used a $2 turnbuckle from Lowes for adjustment.

Big wire to the battery and a 12v wire to the #2 terminal (I think, it might be #1 but I don't remember. If it doesn't charge put the 12v on the other terminal)

Easiest upgrade out there if you ask me. Thanks again slo :P

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Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#57 ppeters914

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 10:09 AM

You'll need the ZX water inlet (it's angled for clearance) and a v groove pulley.


Is it angled more than this?

Posted Image

If so, does that create interference issues w/ the oil filter?
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#58 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 11:18 AM

Maybe, let's see...yep, way more angle...

Posted Image

No interference issues with the oil filter. I did end up getting one size smaller belt than the part number in the pic...

Here's a shot of the alt. power wire. field wire and ground...(doesn't really need the ground, but it can't hurt)

Posted Image

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620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#59 pope_face

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 10:18 AM

Redeye: I just realized what you meant when you said "turnbuckle"... looks awesome... I don't think I ever would've thought of that myself... :D
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#60 kansascity1

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Posted 01 December 2007 - 09:28 PM

where do you get that water inlet?
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