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90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor


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#21 slodat

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 06:02 PM

As is said in my disclaimer above, just my opinions. I have a set of the BMW projectors and have seen a couple of sets with a "normal/stock(ish)" bulb installed that I thought were good.

[WARNING! - RANT] Something that turns me off about "car guys" that are more accurately described as people who want to appear to be the person that built their ride or had an original thought and actually made something on their ride is the guys who read too much on forums, web sites and magazines and know shit squat about a fucking thing when it comes to cars, or probably anthing else for that matter. The douche bags that Hainz rants about. The fucking twit with $800 worth of headlights in a car with a charging system that can't keep up with a damn flashlight battery, let alone run his Ricey McRicerson headlights. You've seen it the "sick ass slammed 510 with heated springs" and all the moron can tell you about the car is his plans for an SR20DETTT with an 8 speed and 18" brakes - you know like so and so's car. The guy that reads 10% of a thread that has many hours, probably on the order of hundreds of hours of work, research, try and try again to get something sorted out right and well excecuted. Ricky Dipshit cheap fuck Datsun Dick pays triple price on eBay for his kewl part and doesn't know how to run a drill, let alone install his $60 "tricky dicky hood struts". So, now he has 250# struts on his hood, which he can't close.. well he can't close anymore - because he folded it in half the first time to overcome the force of the strut. He also has 9 sets of holes because he didn't actually look at the photos or heaven forbid take 10 minutes and lay it out before drilling a 1/2" hole for a M6 bolt, that he cross threaded a SAE nut on.

Here's a tip. Buy a fucking Honda, go to Wal-Mart and accessorize to your un-original hearts content! You will be in like minded company at the pull apart looking for that coveted JDM B16 blah blah.

Yes, I got an email from some fucker who did this to his hood and told me I should have gave more details because he has to get that much needed carbon fiber hood now and put off his $3k T3/T4/T-FUCK-YOU turbo purchase - that he's going to put on a 100k mile stock L20 - you know to "see what it's like".

[RANT OVER]

#22 Cuts metal like mad

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 09:16 PM

Hmmm... dont know where all the hostility is coming from, up till this point I thought you were a pretty cool guy, never had a problem with you. Kinda seems like you are accusing me of being the type of person you are ripping apart at this point, if you are you couldn't be more wrong.

You are welcome to your opinion. I had h4s, like I said, on my old wagon and they were great... but I want more, and I can afford it. I guess I'm also a moron cause I'm doin LED taillights cause I want people to to actually see my car at night time from behind... guess it offends you that I'm making my car my own. I dont see the need to justify my abilities to you since you've never even met me, but I'll say this and leave it at that... I'm 27 and been working on and around cars for more than 20 years. I have wanted a 510 wagon since I was 6 years old, and 510s are a family tradition so to speak.

I see nothing wrong with hondas, only the people who stand as the majority of what hondas "represent" which why I got out of them. I had a completely stock "looking" one that was fast enough to get me into the kind of trouble that forced me to sell it. I bought it as a project from some "kid" who couldnt finish it and got in way over his head with it. I built a wiring harness for it from scratch... I know my way around spool of wire well... Had it running within a week of getting it and was driving it daily within 2. The guys dad was really pissed and even wanted it back, I bought for 1/10th what they had into it...

I have had 5 510s since I started and all of them were non runners when I got them, one sat in a barn for 12 years... and I got it running on my own at 17. Bent and installed ALL new brake hard lines, new gas tank, new brakes all around, new mc, did my first vw radiator (and learned they suck).

If you really wanna talk "unoriginal"... lets talk 510s, nothing you could ever possibly do or dream of doing is original on 35+/- year old car.
Bah... I'm done...

#23 slodat

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 10:33 PM

Calm down there hot rod. You are I clearly explained the entire situation. If I wanted to say something about you, I'd send you a PM. I was, as I stated, ranting about a guy emailing me because he is a bonehead. I put it in this thread, because it seemed related and I got the email about 10 minutes before.

I'm with you, no need to flex muscles on the internet. I have 3 engineering degrees. Now what? I'm not a prick and made an earnest attempt to communicate something and point out the nature of the post.

In regard to the unoriginal comment. There's VERY little that is original. There are almost 6 BILLION people on the planet and people strive to be "different". There are a LOT of 510's in the world. I'm happy having my example.

My little temper tantrum was about a significant contingent of the Datto folks that should probably be tested prior to being allow to operate a door knob. Yet, the buy an SR20 and post post post on the forums questions that could be answered with 1 drop of initiative.

Please, don't take anything I say personal. It's not personal, at all.

With respect to "knowing way around a spool of wire". Please understand there is a night and day difference between being able to connect stuff up and it "work" and engineering. You stated you saw no reason to explain your abilities to me, yet you do it anyway. I'm a pretty straight guy. Please proofread your work before you get all uppity, it makes you look bad.

#24 Bleach

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 10:56 PM

Mr Engineer, the next time I see you I'd like your opinion on my headlight setup. You mentioned relay placing and conductors. I just threw in two relays and some larger wires to power my H4s. They work but honestly I can't tell any difference in light. At least my factory wiring won't get cooked again. :eek:

Maybe I need better quality bulbs. I've run the same bulbs now for over 5 years.
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#25 71-521

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 11:28 PM

What gauge and type of wires did you use and what was the rating on the relays?
And, 5 year old bulbs, I'd definitely replace them...

Remember: "Don't Bogart that joint" get it replaced before it smokes you!

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#26 Icehouse

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 11:45 PM

Bleach aren't you supposed to be moderating this stuff?

"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb."    Sam


#27 Icehouse

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 11:47 PM

Yet, the buy an SR20 and post post post on the forums questions that could be answered with 1 drop of initiative.



Are you referring to me??

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#28 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 12:12 AM

Are you referring to me??


I hope you are joking. And to answer the question, not no but FUCK NO! I admire you - A LOT! You just fucking do shit! You are the opposite of what I am talking about.

Guys, this isn't directed at ANYONE who is on this forum - AT ALL PERIOD. If I have an issue with this community, I'll just send the dude a message and clear stuff up.

That said, the reason for the post was to shed some light on where I'm coming from sometimes with respect to questions people ask.

I'll keep my opinions to myself. Didn't mean to cause a stink. And I'm surprised I did - or I would have not posted.

Shutting up..

#29 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 12:34 AM

Are you referring to me??


I was referring to things like, does anyone have a Subaru R160 LSD for $50? How hard is it to install?

A simple google search of "datsun 510 subaru lsd" brings up, you guessed it. Kurt Hafer's "Installing Subaru Limited Slip Differentials" how to page. With all the info right there.

All I am talking about is doing a little leg work. After a while guys like Nelson get tired of answering that question. They get tired of it because the question is mostly asked out of laziness (or at least I think it is). I'm open to the reality that some people aren't net savy. Anyway, that's where I was coming from. I know guys with encyclopedia type knowledge of Datsuns that refuse to get involved in online communities because the signal to noise ratio can be low.

Please read above. A guy saw a post I made on a forum about my hood struts. He got "ripped off" by someone else on eBay and spent $60 for two used struts, that ultimately let to him destroying his hood. He sent me an insane email telling me I should have provided better "instructions" in my post. My post was along the lines of "I figured out the hood struts, here's how I did it". When I saw a photo of his car with the damn bent hood, he showed a photo of the engine bay - with his stock externally regulated alternator and.... you guessed it $800 worth of eBay HID conversion. Yep $400 a side. He was quite proud of them, but noted the flicker sometimes. He thinks the flickering is because they are too "strong" for a Datsun.

Zuum.. put those suckers on your car and enjoy. You may want to look at the charging system, while you doing electrical type things.

For the record. The hood struts I used were 65# and my hood's dents were all registered before the struts found there way to the car.

#30 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 12:58 AM

My $12 Sylvania halogens illuminate the road better than most anyones setup, at least to my eyes. But I know how to lay out wiring so things work at their best. ie: relays placed at the correct point in the circuit, properly sized conductors AND grounds.


To clear this up, what I am saying is, the average Datto with $12 halogens and stock wiring is lacking in the lighting department. It's not the bulbs alone. It's the way the circuits were designed 40 years ago. Modern style wiring circuits make an enormous improvement in the lighting - without changing the bulb.

What I did not say is any of the following:

xxxx you are dumb.
I am smarter than JJJJ.
HIDs are for wimps.
If you don't do it the way I did, your car sucks, you suck, etc.

#31 Cuts metal like mad

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 01:07 AM

To clear this up, what I am saying is, the average Datto with $12 halogens and stock wiring is lacking in the lighting department. It's not the bulbs alone. It's the way the circuits were designed 40 years ago. Modern style wiring circuits make an enormous improvement in the lighting - without changing the bulb.

What I did not say is any of the following:

xxxx you are dumb.
I am smarter than JJJJ.
HIDs are for wimps.
If you don't do it the way I did, your car sucks, you suck, etc.


:D ROFL :D

Ok now you got me laughing. BTW I did say I am gonna do the 90a+ upgrade and do a dual relay (high/low) headlight harness. I Hope it will be sufficient for the HIDs. I appreciate your concern though slodat aka wurker ;) I take great pride in doing electrical work, I actually enjoy it... people think I'm crazy for that...

#32 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 09:54 AM

Finally! The rant was supposed to be funny. Admittedly, dark, depricating humor.

#33 Bleach

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 10:58 AM

I never thought you were talking about any particular members of this forum.

anway... the main power wires I'm using I believe are 10 gauge. Maybe a bit too big.
The relays are 30 amp and I have one for each headlight. So each bulb has its own 10 gauge wire. I removed the clip off the back of the bulb and soldered the larger wire directly to the clip and replaced it. I left the factory ground wire in place on the bulb. The relays are grounded to the car right by where they are mounted at the battery. Smaller ground wires but only about 5-6 inches long. Both relays are powered off of a power distribution block right by the battery. The relays are triggered by a smaller wire run from the factory 280ZX headlights.

(looking for pic....)
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#34 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 12:06 PM

Bleach. You are on the right track from what you have described. People often don't give the ground the attention it requires. The ground is the other conductor in the circuit. It is not optional. It also needs to be sized correctly. Cars use a grounded electrical system because it makes the wiring simpler. Simpler if you understand a grounded electrical system. A good way to understand a grounded electrical system is to learn how an ungrounded electrical system works - like on a submarine for example.

Factors that are considered when choosing a conductor for either the + or ground in a circuit:
  • current demand of the circuit
  • length of the run
  • temperature of the area it is installed. this is not considered too much in auto wiring because most is rated for the expected temp. temperature rating is based on the dielectric strength(insulating ability) of the insulation.
Solder is probably not the best way to make connections in auto wiring unless a person truly knows how to solder. Just because it is stuck together with a big ole glob, doesn't ensure a connection with mechanical and electrical integrity. Cold solder connections can be an electrical open. Also, if you don't watch the flow of the solder, you can have it wick up the conductor turning that flexible stranded wire into a solid wire that could break with some vibration.

Crimp on connectors are not inferior when used correctly. I have showed a lot of guys a couple finese points with crimp on connectors. Buying quality connectors goes a long way as well.

#35 Cuts metal like mad

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 12:19 PM

I love the more expensive butt connectors with built in heat shrink that has the weather proof "gunk" that squeezes out and fills up the air gap normall associated with "normal" butts and protects the joint from water etc.

#36 Bleach

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 01:17 PM

you know, I don't like how my solder kit works.
When I was yonger my dad had some liquid flux and some raw lead. (I think)
You'd put a drop of that flux on the connection, then a drop of the melted lead and it would adhere and surround the wires. It looked like it just meshed right in all clean and nice. I never have found any liquid flux that does not say "not for use on electrical"
What other use is there, on radiators?!? :(

so I buy the flux core solder and its basically crap but its what I have to work with.

The Nissan factory 3 prong connector on the back of the headlight is what I am using. I carefully removed the low beam clip from the plastic housing, soldered the wire directly to that and then reinstalled it. I didn't want any weak connection in the line. I've got a nice solid cable right from the relay to the bulb. :D I can probably run 200w bulbs now! (with intent to blind you, Steve) haha

;)

On another note, some time this year I'll be doing an ECU swap to a 300ZX turbo ECU and you're supposed to resolder a bunch of small wires at the ECU. I'll need to find the right kind of method before tackling that job. Maybe quality crimp connectors will work?
Thank you Ted!
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#37 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 03:53 PM

There is a little more to soldering than a Soldering Gun. Soldering is best performed with a proper soldering station. The last one I had lasted 15 years. I had to replace it when I built my MegaSquirt ECU (it was dead when I went to use it). I bought a quality solder station for about $100. Tip size shape is critical. Using the correct solder is critical. Flux core solder is the only way to go now that all of the other stuff is banned for personal safety reasons.

Some pointers with soldering - (if you don't understand, ask)
  • Keep the tip tinned
  • The joint must be heated so the solder flows
  • Control the flow of the solder
  • Use the correct amount of solder - more is not better
  • I can't overemphasize that temperature is the key to success
  • Stay away from Radio Shack - they are a cellphone and junk store and should be avoided at all costs with respect to anything you care about. (my opinion of course). Fry's is a good place to get supplies
  • If you don't know what you are doing. Swap skills with someone that does. This is a big part of what's fun about car stuff. Get good at something and swap with guys that are good at other stuff.
With respect to 200W bulbs... In a DC circuit (which all circuits in the cars are) Ohms law applies (AC circuits are a little more complicated because of inductive reactance, capacitive reactance and impedence)

Ohms Law:: Power = Voltage x Current

85W / 14v = 6Amps
6A times 4 bulbs = 24A

Add to this the fact that there are losses in circuits of any size because of conductor size, connections etc and this is a 25a circuit. Anyone see why I was going on about upgrading the alternator before worrying about fancy lights??

Bleach, I'm happy to assist with the ECU soldering. Maybe we should have a little get together and show some guys how to solder that little stuff??? I'm game.

#38 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 03:57 PM

I love the more expensive butt connectors with built in heat shrink that has the weather proof "gunk" that squeezes out and fills up the air gap normall associated with "normal" butts and protects the joint from water etc.


They can be useful, but a car is not typically near harsh enough to justify the expense for most guys.

The quality (not Harbor Freight, etc) nylon connectors will work great! Nylon is my preference over the plastic. Another option that I am using more and more is non-insulated connectors, crimped correctly with heat shrink over the crimp. Reason is they are a lot smaller and make wiring a lot cleaner once the inevitable splice/connections are made. I like clean and functional. On the TV Hot Rod shows they solder these. You can, but make damn sure you don't wick solder up the wire and turn it into a solid conductor. If you do and it breaks in that insulation, you may have a hell of a time finding it!

#39 Bleach

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 05:48 PM

First picture is showing the larger power wire connected right into the headlight plug. The others are just views of the relay setup.
The last picture shows where all three relays ground, front right of pic.

the third relay is unused right now. Will be used to power 6 electric horns in the near future.

I was kidding on the 200w bulbs, but I do run 80w bulbs right now.

Slo: so if we have a 90amp alt and we're pulling most of that amperage out, how do you suggest we connect the alt to the battery. mainly, what sort of fuse? Fusable link is best maybe?

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#40 slodat

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 06:08 PM

Slo: so if we have a 90amp alt and we're pulling most of that amperage out, how do you suggest we connect the alt to the battery. mainly, what sort of fuse? Fusable link is best maybe?


I suggest using 4ga car audio type wire because it has a high strand count - so it is really flexible. Makes it easy and can handle the current.

I don't have overcurrent protection on my alternator output because I run it to my starter + terminal. The run is very short and the chance for a short is negligible.

When I move the battery to the rear of the car, I will install a circuit breaker on the front to back wire. A fuse here will leave you stranded.

OPINION COMING.. BEWARE I feel that fusable links have no business being used ANYWHERE. If you would like to know why, buy some of that fuseable link "wire" and connect each end to a fully charged battery. What you will see is nothing less than a fire in my opinion. How the fuck the is considered a "safety" thing is beyond me. It is designed to burn up. No thanks.

I prefer circuit breakers in one or two places and fuses for the remainder. My reasoning for the breaker on my front to back line is if it pops, I want to be able to attempt to start again without needing a 200a fuse that no one stocks and cost $25 or so.

I've done this before and it worked well. On this run it is important for the fuse to be as close to the battery as practical.

Hope that helps.

I'll take some photos when I re-wire the engine bay.